Topic Sponsor
Engine & Drivetrain "How-To" articles pertaining to the Engine and Drivetrain of an F150 (including Exhaust)

HOW TO: Diagnose your 4x4 system. ESOF

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-07-2014, 07:04 PM
  #171  
Junior Member
 
gurney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Frankfort, KY
Posts: 4
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Two new vids with EXCELLENT summary of this IWE issue. It's like he read the thread and did the vids. Videos are easy to watch, no stupid music, guy leaves out the annoying commentary. Very well done.

Changed mine out last weekend (2005 FX4) after reading thread and watching these recent youtube vids. Easy as pie. I had more trouble getting the lug nuts off than changing the IWE.

Ford F150 4X4 Diagnosis No Tools Required

2004-2008 Ford F150 4X4 Clicking Noise Vacuum Hubs
The following users liked this post:
Nukpanna (04-28-2014)
Old 04-11-2014, 09:38 PM
  #172  
Member
 
WeRodeInTrucks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 37
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

So till I have time to address this issue I can unhook the lines that go to the firewall behind the battery and it will stop trying to engage while driving is that correct?
Old 04-12-2014, 02:55 AM
  #173  
Sheep Dog
Thread Starter
 
VTX1800N1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,127
Received 327 Likes on 196 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by WeRodeInTrucks
So till I have time to address this issue I can unhook the lines that go to the firewall behind the battery and it will stop trying to engage while driving is that correct?
You can pull the electrical to that solenoid and it will engage the IWEs but not the transfer case. That will prevent any more damage to the IWE and hub. It will cost you a little in fuel mileage but it's worth it to save the hardware.
Old 04-19-2014, 02:01 PM
  #174  
Junior Member
 
Area51Werks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: MN
Posts: 19
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Great info. I didn't read every page as it's so much but my truck was stuck in 4wd. Dash selector switch would not turn it off the 4 wd. I started the truck, had the dash selector switch in 2 wd, crawled under the driver side with a brass hammer and lightly tapped around and on the motor thing on the transfer case. Crawled back out and checked the dash. No joy, the light on the dash still indicated the truck was in 4 wd. Moved the dash selector switch to 4 wd then back to 2 wd. 4 wd light went out! Cool! Test drove it and it was fixed. I guess I need to either clean up the motor or just replace it.


Thanks!

Last edited by Area51Werks; 04-19-2014 at 02:04 PM.
Old 04-28-2014, 09:24 PM
  #175  
Senior Member
 
Nukpanna's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 161
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by gurney
Two new vids with EXCELLENT summary of this IWE issue. It's like he read the thread and did the vids. Videos are easy to watch, no stupid music, guy leaves out the annoying commentary. Very well done. Changed mine out last weekend (2005 FX4) after reading thread and watching these recent youtube vids. Easy as pie. I had more trouble getting the lug nuts off than changing the IWE. Ford F150 4X4 Diagnosis No Tools Required Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6b7FQOsbvI 2004-2008 Ford F150 4X4 Clicking Noise Vacuum Hubs Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqihvBDPEZc
This is perfect for what I needed to do! Great find!!
Old 05-17-2014, 05:08 PM
  #176  
Junior Member
 
Vapor_Trails's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Excellent thread! Thank you for all the info. Here's where I'm at I don't know what to do next. Please help.

I started hearing the dreaded grinding noise. Someone said it kinda sounds like glass in a blender. I like that description. It only happens under acceleration. I can engage 4wd and it is functional and the noise stops. Back in 2wd the noise occurs. I disconnected the vacuum line at a check valve (the black side)and plugged the line. The noise stops and it feels like the hubs are engaged. What do I do next?

Thanks - Chris in So Cal

I forgot say I have a 2006 Screw with 93,000 miles. And I've already replaced the solenoid. Which obviously wasn't the problem.

Last edited by Vapor_Trails; 05-17-2014 at 05:25 PM. Reason: Add info
Old 05-17-2014, 06:16 PM
  #177  
Sheep Dog
Thread Starter
 
VTX1800N1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,127
Received 327 Likes on 196 Posts

Default

Test your check valves. Your symptoms indicate they are bad or you have a large vacuum leak in the system.
Old 05-17-2014, 08:04 PM
  #178  
Junior Member
 
Vapor_Trails's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I checked them and they seem ok. They pull air the way they should. I don't have a vacuum tester but I pulled the lines at the IWE (left side anyway) and I can feel it sucking air.

BTW, thanks for all your work on this issue VTX. I have a 2001 VFR. :-)
Old 05-17-2014, 08:06 PM
  #179  
Sheep Dog
Thread Starter
 
VTX1800N1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,127
Received 327 Likes on 196 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Vapor_Trails
I checked them and they seem ok. They pull air the way they should. I don't have a vacuum tester but I pulled the lines at the IWE (left side anyway) and I can feel it sucking air.

BTW, thanks for all your work on this issue VTX. I have a 2001 VFR. :-)
It's more important that they do not pass air in the opposite direction. That's what they are there for, a one way air valve. Air should pass toward the engine and not away from it.
Old 05-17-2014, 08:12 PM
  #180  
Junior Member
 
Vapor_Trails's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

They only pull air the one way they should. I can hear/feel the diaphragm opening & closing when I blow & suck on them.


Quick Reply: HOW TO: Diagnose your 4x4 system. ESOF



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:29 AM.