How to Clean your throttle body + MAF
01-30-2012, 01:42 AM
#21
Formerly "ZCHPRO"
Thread Starter
I had the same stalling issues, eventually it resulted in the check engine light coming on. The local Ford garage tried to get me for $707 for a new throttle body and install. Upon removing my throttle body there was significant sludge underneath the butterfly valve.
The only issue I ran into is that I twisted/snapped the head off on of the T20 screws that held the TPS in place, but a quick trip to True Value solved that issue. Otherwise it runs like a top again, even the idling at stop signs/lights is better.
Can't say thanks enough! If you're ever in the Pittsburgh area on a Friday Night, drop me a line, Lernerville Speedway VIP treatment on me!!
The only issue I ran into is that I twisted/snapped the head off on of the T20 screws that held the TPS in place, but a quick trip to True Value solved that issue. Otherwise it runs like a top again, even the idling at stop signs/lights is better.
Can't say thanks enough! If you're ever in the Pittsburgh area on a Friday Night, drop me a line, Lernerville Speedway VIP treatment on me!!
The other thing the local Ford garage told me was that they've seen this issue on several mid 2000s F-150s and a common thread seems to be the use of a K&N Air Filter. Any reason to believe that or just an attempt to add the price of a motorcraft air filter and an extra 1/2 hour of labor?!?!
01-31-2012, 08:54 PM
#23
Formerly "ZCHPRO"
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02-03-2012, 12:38 AM
#24
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A couple years ago, mine wouldn't start and threw a couple codes:
P2104 - "Forced Idle"
P2112 - "Throttle stuck close"
I took the throttle apart and cleaned it up. It has been fine since.
My '07 4.6L has a plastic spacer with seals behind the TB. Ford recommends replacing it after it has been removed but I'm not sure that is necessary.
Good write up
P2104 - "Forced Idle"
P2112 - "Throttle stuck close"
I took the throttle apart and cleaned it up. It has been fine since.
My '07 4.6L has a plastic spacer with seals behind the TB. Ford recommends replacing it after it has been removed but I'm not sure that is necessary.
Good write up
04-09-2012, 02:38 AM
#26
Formerly "ZCHPRO"
Thread Starter
clean the MAF for sure.
if it still doesn't clear up then how rough are we talking?
shaking the truck rough or too low of an idle rough?
if it's the first I would look at getting spark plugs changed.
Heck if it hasn't been done yet I would change them on that truck ASAP.
Due yourself a favor and do the first two steps and go from there.
04-12-2012, 02:15 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by ProZach
rough idle could be partly due to a dirty tb
clean the MAF for sure.
if it still doesn't clear up then how rough are we talking?
shaking the truck rough or too low of an idle rough?
if it's the first I would look at getting spark plugs changed.
Heck if it hasn't been done yet I would change them on that truck ASAP.
Due yourself a favor and do the first two steps and go from there.
04-12-2012, 02:30 PM
#28
I have a 96 with a 300. My idle was around 620. The only thing in the ignition system left for me to replace was the ignition control module, so I went for it. Idles right about 700 now.
04-13-2012, 12:56 AM
#29
Formerly "ZCHPRO"
Thread Starter
750 was about the range that kept it safe but it was a little overboard to have to buy a programmer to fix this. Personally I think this is why Ford went with the electric steering on the 2011s
