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How to Clean your throttle body + MAF

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Old 12-05-2012, 05:52 AM   #41
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This is the TSB.

This article supersedes TSBs 10-2-5, 10-2-3, 9-24-1, 09-4-5, 09-4-2 and 08-18-2 to consolidate previously released information and update the Service Procedure. ISSUE:

Some vehicles may exhibit diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0505, P0506 and/or engine idle RPM fluctuation and hard starts. These vehicles may also exhibit DTCs P2111 and P2112 after KAM has been is cleared, or the battery has been disconnected or the vehicle had a dead battery. On vehicles with over 10,000 miles the issue may be caused by sludge buildup in the electronic throttle body (ETB) leading to airflow being less than desired.
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:45 PM   #42
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Just cleaned my throttle bottle last night and the throttle response difference is unreal. Just wanted to say thanks for the great writeup! Here is what it looked like before. Forgot to take after pictures but it looks the same as the original post.
Attached Thumbnails
How to Clean your throttle body + MAF-image-3892459963.jpg   How to Clean your throttle body + MAF-image-2637082527.jpg  
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:48 PM   #43
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Great write up! Just cleaned mine along with the mass airflow sensor.

Before


How to Clean your throttle body + MAF-image-2722224134.jpg

After


How to Clean your throttle body + MAF-image-3399535598.jpg
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:13 PM   #44
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I'm debating on taking the plastic layer off or not when I do mine
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:25 PM   #45
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Thanks, Although I have a 2005, 4.6 it was ez as hell. It fixed my issue that I've had for years and finally it just was almost undriveable. I figured I'd take it to the dealer but do some research first to be knowledgeable when the dealer tries to screw me over. I came across your post and was timid about the job but it took about 30mins and cost 20$. Instantly my stalling issue was resolved.
I owe you. I'll pass the savings on to whatever bar I'm headed tonight and make love to a beautiful woman in your honor.
I love Ford and Ford owners. I'm sure the honorable Henry Ford would be proud of the help you gave to all of us.
Thank you!!!
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:24 AM   #46
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Always glad to lend a helping hand. Also glad to hear you avoided the dealer! Enjoy your night out just don't bang any fuglies in my honor.

Last edited by ProZach; 01-01-2013 at 07:56 PM.
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Old 01-01-2013, 02:40 PM   #47
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First off, thanks for the post. Good walk through for part-time, weekend-warrior house mechanics like myself. I was reluctant to do this today means how it is in the low teens here in SW Missouri, but I am extremely glad that I did. I just recently bought this truck and have had some issues with a rough idle and even a stall here and there. I changed the FPDM in hopes that was the issue. It was definitely due for a change judging by the 1/2 inch of corrosion on the backside of the module, but it didnt solve all my issues. I did this tb clean in about an hour today and started my truck (first crank) and went on a test drive. My truck acted like a dog that had just been let off its leash for the first time. Amazing power gain and fixed my throttle response issue as well as my rough idle. I will drive it around for a few weeks and will post if my status changes. Ive included a few pics for the before and after:
Attached Thumbnails
How to Clean your throttle body + MAF-image-2783144573.jpg   How to Clean your throttle body + MAF-image-3075366660.jpg   How to Clean your throttle body + MAF-image-614264415.jpg   How to Clean your throttle body + MAF-image-1323636925.jpg  
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Old 02-23-2013, 12:26 AM   #48
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Great write up, will keep this fro references....Thanks.
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:11 PM   #49
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Tackled this the other day. Picked up these two kits from harbor freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...kit-95947.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...set-90631.html

Clip the ends, and you can drop them right into your drill. Cleaned out all the ports really well, spraying/drilling/spraying/drilling, etc... Used TB cleaner. Soaked exterior in degreaser for about 20 minutes, then scrubbed off in sink. Used the dremel with mini wire brush attachment and cleaned out the port, somewhat polishing. Couple of small burr's around the lip where the fly closes to, knocked those down. EGR ports were interesting. VERY dirty. The wire tube brushes were particularly awesome for this part. LED style light will allow you to see in, FYI. Once all said and done, was a great project.

My sense of accomplishment was immediately dispatched when I put it back on the truck and realized the EGR tube from the exhaust manifold was broken beyone repair at the manifold. It's rusted to the point where it appears to be a gnurled ****. In no way shape or form resembling a fitting.

We'll see how the manifold-to-header process goes. Hopefully the bolts dont break off in the heads

v/r
Bryan B.
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:58 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoDigg41 View Post
The other thing the local Ford garage told me was that they've seen this issue on several mid 2000s F-150s and a common thread seems to be the use of a K&N Air Filter. Any reason to believe that or just an attempt to add the price of a motorcraft air filter and an extra 1/2 hour of labor?!?!

1/2 hour for a filter change......no doubt thats what theyd charge even though it only takes 5 or 10 minutes
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:36 AM   #51
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:31 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoDigg41 View Post
The other thing the local Ford garage told me was that they've seen this issue on several mid 2000s F-150s and a common thread seems to be the use of a K&N Air Filter. Any reason to believe that or just an attempt to add the price of a motorcraft air filter and an extra 1/2 hour of labor?!?!
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Originally Posted by danwelsh View Post
1/2 hour for a filter change......no doubt thats what theyd charge even though it only takes 5 or 10 minutes
While a 1/2 hour labor charge is great for business they are making a good point. Many people install said filters that use oil without first blowing them with an air compressor (to remove any excess) and/or when they need re-oiling they over oil and it blows onto the sensor. Very common from all the threads that I've read.

To avoid it just get an aftermarket long life filter that doesn't use oil. I think aFe makes some.
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:28 AM   #53
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when i got my truck a couple weeks ago i changed the filter and replaced it with a paper one.....what benefit is it to use an oiled air filter?
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:44 PM   #54
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oiled filters allegedly claim HP and ft-lbs-torque increases though if it's true are never substantial enough to shop up on a dyno.
When installed properly to avoid ruining your MAF and gunking up your TB the only real gain is that you're not supposed to ever need to buy a new filter. K&N advertises their filters as million mile filters. However the recharge kits are fairly expensive and they cost more than double what a regular filter costs. My corolla costs $4 for a regular and $30 for K&N, that's a lot of driving to make it pay off.
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Old 06-26-2013, 01:41 PM   #55
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My check engine light came on, got it checked out at the local auto parts store. Idle Air control Sensor was the reason it was popping. The guy said the stores don't sell it, I would need to go online to find it or contact Ford. Well, Ford wanted $400+, I found a place on eBay for $168, brand new with warranty. I ordered it not doing my research, I was tired of the truck stalling and when I lifted off the gas it would just lose power, throttle response was lagging badly, the truck was no longer fun to drive. I did some research and found this posting, thank God I did, a money saver! I bought some MAF and TB cleaner and a new High Flow Air Filter. I cleaned both, dried both completely. Fired truck up and there was no more clattering on revving the engine, there was no more rough idle, no more RPM's going up and down. I was shocked. As noted I let it sit for a minute with A/C on high, then took off for a 20 mile drive(The check engine light would pop after about 10 miles). To my amazement the throttle response was awesome, truck was idling correctly at a stop, when letting off the throttle there was no more dragging happening in the engine. The truck became super fun to drive again.

Now I will be returning the TB I bought. Total cost for cleaners $10, saved $150.

Thanks a lot, this helped!
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:19 AM   #56
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glad to help
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:22 PM   #57
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Thanks for the exceptional write up. Mine was filthy and I really gave it a good cleaning. I haven't noticed much of a difference in performance but I am glad its cleaned now no matter the difference. Your directions were very clear and easy to follow!
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:05 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FjacobXsmith4 View Post
Thanks for the exceptional write up. Mine was filthy and I really gave it a good cleaning. I haven't noticed much of a difference in performance but I am glad its cleaned now no matter the difference. Your directions were very clear and easy to follow!
Thanks, that's what I was going for.

Performance shouldn't be too much of a noticeable gain, just like you said; it's great to know that it's clean.
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:24 PM   #59
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Thanks for the write up! Doing this was easy as pie and it made a huge difference with my rough idle. My TB was extremely dirty
and only cost me 5 bucks. thanks again
*edit figured id mention thats at 87k miles
before (obviously)


after
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:44 PM   #60
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Very helpful write up. I was getting tired of being embarrassed about my truck not starting or turning off at intersections.

I have a S&B CAI on my 4.6


I removed these 4 bolts and disconnected the two sensors/plugs on either side of tb


Dirty


very dirty
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:44 PM
 
 
 
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