first off, Motorcraft oil is not synthetic, its semi synthetic. But as far as what oil is best. I have found no difference in any semi or fully synthetic oils except for the price. Motorcraft is by far the cheapest price wise. The whole key to this is to follow a reasonable maintainence schedule and stick to it.I used to be the person who changed his oil every 3k religiously. But after much research changed to the every 5k approach. My Motorcraft oil is still fairly clean upon change out so im convinced so far. Those Chevys and Dodges may beat me off the line but sooner or later i'll pass then along side the road. And if they are nice i'll tow them home.
Motorcraft oil is made in both full synthetic and also semi synthetic.
Hey blackbetty has it going? As you can see I'm new in this forum, and believe me I love it!! I can learn so many things about my truck, and I like it!! Even though I have one question and probably it will sound kind of stupid. By judging your pictures, the plug in the oil pan, could it be possible to vary positions depending on the year of the truck? Ok thank you so much.
it is so easy to get to my oil filter, just reach right above the front diff and grab and twist some times it dont work like that, so sometimes i have to reach near the warm engineto get it, and its not thatr hard after a few times for me, when i do my next oil change i will take pics and show you guys on what i am talking about for my 1991 Ford F150 XLT 5.0 302 V8 auto, but ya the next thing to get done is the front diff lube change, that shall be fun, in the summer of course, not doing ti during the winter up in Alaska fkn freezing outside right now
I used to use Mobil 1 in my truck, but the company I work or switched over to using Amsoil in everything we have so i can get it through work for about the same price I can get your typical synthetic oil for. Amsoil claims (and warranties) that you can run 25,000 miles before an oil change without any problems. Now, I put about 15,000 miles on my truck a year and I do my change every year in August right before winter hits. I've done this for the past two years in my truck and when I change it the oil looks just like it did when I put it in. I just had my truck worked on at the dealership and when they checked my oil they assumed that I had just done an oil change when in fact it has been about 8,000 miles. Even if you had to pay retail price for the oil, only doing it once a year will save you a lot of money. However, you have to use their filter for the 25,000/one year rule to apply. Couple that with a K&N air filter and your yearly oil change costs drop drastically.
Most of today's synthetic oils are of pretty high quality, but you couldn't pay me to run Pennzoil on my truck. I've seen it do some nasty stuff to some engines and I wouldn't put it in my lawn mower.
Second, my brother has connections with Mobil, and he worked with them and GM (I know) to do a 100K test using Mobil 1. They tore down a brand new motor and recorded all of the specs on bearing races and clearances. They then put 100K miles on the motor in NYC Taxi service giving it 5K mile oil changes with Mobil 1. They tore the motor down again at 100K miles and the amount of wear was virtually unmeasurable.
In my books that says a ton about the impact synthetic oil can have, and especially Mobil 1. I use it in all my vehicles including my boat and my motorcycle. My ex has my old 98 5.4 Expedition with over 150K miles on it and it runs and sounds like new. Of course her new husband isn't using Mobile 1 in it any more so who knows what happens now. Maybe it will only make it to 200K
07 F150 Lariat 5.4
did they do the same test with conventional oil? how was the wear in that test?
This may be a stupid question, but keep in mind I'm new to the truck world and my new baby has inspired me to learn how to do things by myself
Step one: Change the oil
So, here's my question... I've heard the filter is the very last thing you remove/replace when changing the oil. I've got a '95 XL, could someone perhaps post pics, or give a description, of where the filter is located
My dad decided I needed a repair and maintenance manual since I'm on the path to figure out how to do things on my own, so the stupid questions should suffice quickly
However, any help at the moment would be greatly appreciated
In my 06 5.4l it was a bitch to get to the filter. **** on the strap wrench, there isnt even enough room to lock onto it. I just reached up and put a good strangle hold onto it with both hands and was able to get it off. I think a big pair of channel locks would do the trick though.
Anothoter good tip is make sure you elevate the front end with ramps. All of the oil didnt run out the plug and I ended up getting pissed on with hot oil when I removed the filter. Der!
I used valvoline 5-20 conventional and a fram filter. Was being stubborn and only using what was available at the time. Yah, next time Im gonna get a K&N filter and run some type of synthetic- probably Amsoil.