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Budget by-pass oil filter system

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Old 04-11-2011, 11:00 PM   #1
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Default Budget by-pass oil filter system

I bought my 2010 F150 with thoughts of it being my last new truck. Every one of my past trucks lasted 10-15 years and only once did I have to rebuild a motor or tranny. Lucky I guess, but I like to think that dedicated maintenance had a lil something to do with getting on average of 175-250K on my trucks.

With synthetic oil being required now, I was looking for a way to both extend my oil changes, and to ensure that I was not going to injure myself trying to change the oil in my new truck. BTW-this is the ONLY thing I dislike about this new truck. What were they thinking about when they put the filter there?

Solution: by-pass oil filter remote set-up (on a budget)

Parts required:
Dual filter remote oil filter kit (summit racing; G4986-1)
WIX by-pass filter (51641)
Modified filter nipple (3/4-16 1-1/4" long with 1/16" orifice)
Pictures attached; instructions to follow....
Attached Thumbnails
Budget by-pass oil filter system-p3280104.jpg   Budget by-pass oil filter system-p3280097.jpg   Budget by-pass oil filter system-p3240085.jpg  

Last edited by HouTxEngr; 04-14-2011 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:23 PM   #2
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Default Instructions: by-pass oil filter setup

The instructions for installing this were included in the dual oil filter remote location kit, except for the nipple modification.
The nipple modification consists of:
- tapping the ID of one of the supplied nipples with a 1/2-20
- take a 1/2-20 steel bolt and thread ~1/2" of it into the nipple
- saw off the part of the bolt sticking out of the nipple
- cut a groove across the face of the bolt sticking out of the nipple
- drill a 1/16" hole through the center of the bolt
- using a blade screwdriver, turn the bolt until it is just below the lip of the nipple
- tig the bolt piece in place (carefully)
- this is the nipple that you will install the by-pass filter onto.

The idea behind the modification is to reduce the flow of oil to 1/8 of the total flow. The slower flowing by-pass filter will capture the smaller particles that cause oil to become "dirty". You still have to service the full-flow filter per manufactures recommended intervals, but that is all you'll need to change (or clean). The by-pass filter change interval will be determined on how you drive and the enviornment you drive in. My city driving will likely require I change the by-pass filter 25-30K miles. The oil analysis reports should help me with when to change the oil.

This set-up cost me $165. (included additional items: reuseable full flow filter; Fumoto F-106N oil pan drain valve; 22"L x 3"W x 3/8" filter assembly mounting bracket; red wire loom)
Figure on taking a Saturday afternoon to do this install.

Last edited by HouTxEngr; 04-13-2011 at 12:55 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old 05-09-2011, 10:14 PM   #3
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Any idea if this would add any unwanted pressure on oil pump?

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Old 05-09-2011, 10:15 PM   #4
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Making it work harder to push the oil through added system?

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Old 05-10-2011, 12:05 PM   #5
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The OEM Motorcraft FL820-S has a flow rate of 2.62 gpm with 75 psi @ 2000 rpm (~ 92% efficient @ 20 microns). Visit "Bob is the oil guy.com" for details like this.

The cleanable, full flow oil filter replacement has a flow rate of 20+ gpm and "Filtration: SAE J1858 Tested: 90% more efficient than "throw away" filters."

The by-pass filter is flowing a mere 1/8 of the flow rate of the full flow filter (not a factor in the overall scheme of flow rates). It's job is to remove the smaller particles and the "dirty" part of oil. This is the part of this set-up that extends the oil replacement intervals.

Finally, the only restriction in this set-up: the 1/2" ID hosing between the adaptor and the filter bracket. Typical flow rate for 1/2" ID hose at 75 psi is 22 gpm (minimum bends; run lengths less than 30").

Amsoil, the leader in the area of oil by-pass systems, follows this same path of flow management and resulting flow rates.

The goal of this "fun" was to minimize oil changes, and make the effort of changing the oil as painless as possible. This setup does both, without breaking the bank.
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Old 05-23-2011, 11:28 PM   #6
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this may be a stupid question but can the oil filter be mounted threads down?
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Old 05-24-2011, 11:16 PM   #7
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The oil filter itself doesn't care how it's mounted.

But, on the other hand, YOU might not like oil dripping on you if the threads are down (where it gets to empty itself on you).

I change my oil, so messy is not my preference.

Threads up keeps the oil in the filter...as shown in the picture.
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Old 05-24-2011, 11:51 PM   #8
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If the new mounting position is above the original position won't the oil drain out of the filter when the engine is shut off?
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Old 05-25-2011, 02:09 PM   #9
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I've seen these set-ups on 18-wheelers where the filters were ~3 feet above the oil pan. The filters were always mounted the same way as my pictures show on mine.

In summary: no, height of the filter bracket is not critical. The critical point to be considerate of is the length of the hoses. Keep them as short as possible (my 1/2" ID hoses are 25").
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Old 05-25-2011, 03:00 PM   #10
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I plan on just buying the Amsoil kit and being done with it
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Old 05-26-2011, 02:13 PM   #11
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djquick1 - That works too.

I couldn't justify $300-400. for the same set-up I put together for $168.

I spent the cost difference on other things for the truck...

Report on how this set-up has been working:
- 7K driven on the truck since I installed the by-pass filter set-up.
- The oil looks like new. Typically the oil is black by this many miles.
- I cleaned the reuseable oil filter, filled it with 1 qt. of new Super Tech 5W-30
synthetic oil, and re-installed it.
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HouTxEngr View Post
The instructions for installing this were included in the dual oil filter remote location kit, except for the nipple modification.
The nipple modification consists of:
- tapping the ID of one of the supplied nipples with a 1/2-20
- take a 1/2-20 steel bolt and thread ~1/2" of it into the nipple
- saw off the part of the bolt sticking out of the nipple
- cut a groove across the face of the bolt sticking out of the nipple
- drill a 1/16" hole through the center of the bolt
- using a blade screwdriver, turn the bolt until it is just below the lip of the nipple
- tig the bolt piece in place (carefully)
- this is the nipple that you will install the by-pass filter onto.

The idea behind the modification is to reduce the flow of oil to 1/8 of the total flow. The slower flowing by-pass filter will capture the smaller particles that cause oil to become "dirty". You still have to service the full-flow filter per manufactures recommended intervals, but that is all you'll need to change (or clean). The by-pass filter change interval will be determined on how you drive and the enviornment you drive in. My city driving will likely require I change the by-pass filter 25-30K miles. The oil analysis reports should help me with when to change the oil.

This set-up cost me $165. (included additional items: reuseable full flow filter; Fumoto F-106N oil pan drain valve; 22"L x 3"W x 3/8" filter assembly mounting bracket; red wire loom)
Figure on taking a Saturday afternoon to do this install.
Great post Tx, like the idea of saving a few bucks. Have two-filter remote kit from an earlier project, but am intimidated by the welding. Any problem in replacing nipple with 3/4-16 thread bolt cut to length and drilled? Except maybe drilling through that length of bolt?
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:09 AM   #13
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F150 Again - The idea of useing a 3/4" bolt will work. Welding was just an easy route for my use of the supplied nipple.

fyi - 10,500 miles on the new truck and the oil looks like the day I put it in. I've cleaned the full-flow filter once now, not much to report as far as visual metalic particles.

The wife and I agree - this is the best riding vehicle we've ever owned. Mileage is 18 in town and 22.5 on the freeway.
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Old 07-30-2011, 01:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HouTxEngr
djquick1 - That works too.

I couldn't justify $300-400. for the same set-up I put together for $168.

I spent the cost difference on other things for the truck...

Report on how this set-up has been working:
- 7K driven on the truck since I installed the by-pass filter set-up.
- The oil looks like new. Typically the oil is black by this many miles.
- I cleaned the reuseable oil filter, filled it with 1 qt. of new Super Tech 5W-30
synthetic oil, and re-installed it.
Current status on by-pass?

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Old 08-01-2011, 12:21 PM   #15
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Mileage to date: 10,850
Maintenance done to date:
- Changed to the by-pass system @ ~3,000 miles (replaced OEM oil w\Super Tech synthetic 5W-30)
- Cleaned full-flow filter @ ~10,000 miles (filled w\1 qt. new Super Tech)

Inspection of the dip stick indicates the oil still looks like new. Next time I clean the full-flow filter (~15,000 miles), I'll take an analysis sample @ the oil pan valve.

I'll post the analysis report here.

fyi - It might be next year before we get to this mileage.
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Last edited by HouTxEngr; 08-01-2011 at 12:28 PM. Reason: oops...forgot the "n"
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:56 AM   #16
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Great idea but with a brand new truck and the amount of mileage you have on it, visual inspections of the oils "condition" are very inconclusive... Todays synthetics can run 10k miles on a standard filtration system and still look like new.

Still a good idea and saves some cash!
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Old 09-06-2011, 04:15 PM   #17
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my friend owns 2 big rigs and they've had by-pass filters on for 2 years.

1 of the truck is currently at 130,000km on the same oil with this setup! its amazing how good it works!!
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HouTxEngr View Post
The goal of this "fun" was to minimize oil changes, and make the effort of changing the oil as painless as possible. This setup does both, without breaking the bank.
How long of OCI are you going to run? It's not so much the filtration but the reduction of additive packs in oils that determine life. Are you getting an oil analysis done at changes to check TBN?
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Old 09-17-2011, 06:12 PM   #19
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Well, here's some bad news. At 11,500 miles the oil still looked like new, but the engine suddenly developed this dieseling sound when pulling up and stopping at a traffic light.
.
Took it into Ford dealership and they actually tried to tell me the by-pass filter set-up was starving the upper parts of the engine (ie. valve train). Seems the bearing were shot on both valve train sides. After further investigation, they dicovered that there was too much front-to-back play in the crankshaft, allowing for oil to by-pass going up the oil journals that feed oil to the valve train.
.
Solution: Ford replaced my NEW engine with a remanufacured engine. It's running "like new", but they told me not to put the by-pass filter set-up on again...Ford would not give me another engine.
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Last edited by HouTxEngr; 09-17-2011 at 07:06 PM. Reason: readability
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Old 09-18-2011, 09:47 PM   #20
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We all expect any dealership to find evidence to prove it was the owner's fault the part or parts failed. They probably had a good enough reason to deny the claim this time.

I'm impressed Ford took it on the chin like they did.
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