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Nice. Also a 7mm chrome 1/4" swivel or flex socket, not a universal but the socket with the swivel built right in, makes it so there's no need to take the fuel rail off, which is more risk than it's worth in my opinion.
So that's the secret to getting the #7 COP bolt out? I did manage to get a box-end wrench on it...but no room to turn it.
Guess I'll have to go to a real tool-merchant! Stopped by Harbor Freight a few months ago when I first read this thread and was contemplating the job...nearest I could find to this was a complete set of wobble-extensions in varying lengths.....and they won't do for the #7...all others have really not been much of a problem at all...well...#3 was interesting due to requirement to separate a couple of 3/8" extensions once plug was unscrewed before I could get the whole mess out of the well...made for a difficult "reach-n-separate!"
Well, just got done with all of my plugs and wanted to say that this helped tremendously. The PO of my truck had all different kinds of plugs at all different gaps. Some gaps were ~4.0 and some were ~7.0. I am not planning on doing them again for a while because that was a total PITA! Thank you for the write up.
Man this is a great tutorial. I just finished the plug change in my Wife's grand Marquis with a 4.6 and am now looking at my 1997 F150 W 5.4. it is just about time for a plug change on it and I may try it also. My hands and eyes just don't work as good as they used to but I still hate to let someone else mess with my machines. Thanks again for the great tutorial
Last week my 02 S'Crew started missing. Parts store code readers weren't connecting to the truck. I figured I might have a bigger problem after 5 different code scanners didn't connect. I borrowed a reader from a co-worker and the reader connected right off. 316 and 307. Ordered a COP and a set of Motorcraft SP-479 plugs and will get them in as soon as they show up. Thanks for this write-up. Thanks a TON!!! I had a similar miss with my 94 Chrysler Concorde 3.5. So I sort of guessed right, just didn't know WHICH plug to look at.
Sounds like a bunch of extra work, I was able to change the plugs on my '98 Expedition without removing the intake. All I removed was two plastic covers. All I needed was the correct length extension on my ratchet and a swivel. Only the back plug on each side gave me trouble, the rear passengers side was the hardest to get to.
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I feel more like I do right now, than I have all day.
I just finished doing my plugs using this guide. Thanks Otto!
I just have a few comments:
- My pen magnet was invaluable not only to retrieve dropped coil bolts, but also to pull them after being loosened and position them to be tightened in close quarters (i.e. the back two cylinders on either side.
- I did put dielectric grease where the boot meets the coil as suggested, but It seemed to make the boot rotate too easily around the coil and lose its position.
- I did not remove the fuel rail, but did unbolt it on the driver's side to get it to move slightly and give me the extra room to work.
- Finally, I was a little nervous about the 28 ft.lb. torque spec since I have not seen anything formal on that. However, with no anti-seize its really not that tight so I went with it.
Thank you for the write up.
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