Audioguy52

Thanks Otto457, that is pretty much the consensus I am seeing on most forums.
If you don't mind I do have other questions concerning my '06 F150 that I can't seem to find any information on.
Thanks again.

bigfish1688

subscribed for future reference

Budman

Thanks Otto, changed my plugs today on my 2003 4.6, it took me over four hours to get the job finished, but it saved me some cash.
Thanks again.

cApTaInGoOfY

Stumbled on this thread as I was searching the forums for a P0301 code, and boy am I glad I did. Swapped out the #1 COP with a Motorcraft one and the stumbling and hesitation that I was getting went away. Looks like the truck had some mismatched plugs in it. Most of them were Motorcraft plugs but 2 of the rear plugs on both sides were Autolite. Man were the a PIA to get out. Had to almost climb into the engine bay and contort my body to get to them! But now have a smooth running engine with new plugs and a new COP on #1. Hopefully none of the rear ones go out cause they are truly a PIA!!

jcewl93

I understand this is an old thread, but why the SP-479 instead of the SP-413's it came with? I live in MS, so heat is a factor. 97 F150 Lariat 4.6 S-Crew 137K, just bought it, misfire on #6. Thanks.

dburn70

Are the pictures gone? Or am I doing something stupid...

dburn70

I was doing something stupid.

I followed these directions today on my 2002 5.4 and finished the job in four hours. It was pretty easy, and I had been dreading the job for a year. Here are some of my thoughts on the Job that others have stated, but are worth repeating

1. If you don't have locking extensions, tape your spark plug socket to the extension. This helped me a lot.
2. I didn't have to remove the fuel rail, because I bought the 7mm flex socket. It was tight on #7 and #8, but I have small hands so not too bad.
3. My truck had 200k on the original plugs, but they came out easily.
4. Get the extended spark plug socket that Otto recommended. Northern has it pretty cheap.
5. I unplugged a couple of the fuel injector plugs when I needed extra room. Make sure those red rubber gaskets don't fall out.

Otto - you've saved me a lot of money and angst, and I really appreciate it. I bought you a beer, but I'm drinking it for you in your absence.

skindog

Good instructions, nice pics. Thanks to the OP on this matter. Subaru owner...., just helping a friend out since I can turn a wrench or two and help him save a little cash in the process.

5 hours, 45 minutes of which searching for my tube of dielectric grease, and many kid interruptions.

I found only having to use a universal on #7 for spark plug removal. A variety of lengths of extensions and tape for the others. The COP 7mm bolts I removed with a 1/4" Kobalt rachet set, except partially for #7. I assume the FPR or something on the fuel rail causes clearance issues in this vicinity, at least it looks like a FPR, lol... but I was able to use a the kobalt 1/4" rachet and a slightly shorter 6 point socket (not part of the kit, but from another long past broken and dispersed socket set) on that particular COP bolt w/o removing the rail or using a universal. Tried using several 7mm wrenches on as well, but seemed like it was going to strip on me.

7 by far the worst of the job. The rear 4 and 8 are scary looking at first and were conquered with a bit of climbing and reaching. I removed the connectors to the injectors as I went along the bank... Plugs came out with no issues, Followed torque specs of 28ftlbs on replacement, 2002 4.6L.... unknown mileage since last change.

Anyway, thanks again Otto for sharing. Thought I'd reciprocate my experience from flat 4 to F-150 for a day

brow&proud

I replaced COP and plugs on cylinder 1-6 on my 97F150 5.4. I ran out of time so I have to finish 7 and 8 next week. After reading this tonight I noticed that Advance Auto give me SP-459 and I didn't realize that Otto used SP-479. Should I be worried?

Army Strong

STICKY....numerous subscribers and views.