pudge1515

Hey guys just wanted to give some incite to those looking at getting either the MAK Y Pipe or the truetrac diff and are wanting to save some money and install them yourself. First the Mak Y pipe was super easy, the only hard part was getting to the passenger side exhaust manifold flange but after some maneuvering I finally got it free. Also be super careful when removing your O2 sensors as they can be easily dented when removing them with an O2 socket. I love the new pipes except they are a little raspy so I'm going to be putting a resonator in to help out and I am also welding in some V-bands cause there are small exhaust leaks on the y pipe (not too crazy about the exhaust clamps they came with...) but other than that I would highly recommend it. I went from 487 to 522 RWHP (could have gone more but I'm waiting to install my Oil pump before I go any higher) with a new tune after installing the pipe so definitely the best bang for the buck for more power.

As for the Truetrac that install was little more daunting but I figured if I took my time and payed attention to what I was doing that I could save myself $300 and install it myself. All in all if you have the right tools, mostly a shop vise, which I picked up at harbor freight for $105 out the door, then the install is fairly easy as well. The hard part was getting the correct shims in place and getting the diff back into the case. It took me about a day and half to do cause I really did not have too much instruction on how to do it but its easy to figure out. Other than that I wasn't able to do a build thread but if anyone has any questions and are wanting to do either install themselves just shoot me a pm or post on this thread and I should be able to help ya out. Got some pics of the True Trac install. First pic is of the stock diff and the second is the new Truetrac.

pudge1515

Oh ya I also got my Cobalt AFR guage installed as well. Ill post video up later this week of how it looks in the truck. I decided to put it in the useless coin holder socket in the dash and it turned out nice.

azdriver

I have a few questions about the diff. Is the true trac a limited slip or locking diff? Where did you purchase it from? I assume you were able to reuse the existing ring/pinion? Am I correct in that these rear ends are 9.75" ??I currently have the ELD which is useless and am leaning towards some type of trac-loc rear like the Lightnings used. My truck has a bad habit of spinning one wheel making a right turn and short shifting as a result. Thanks for the info.

pudge1515

The truetrac is kind of a hybrid if you want to call it that. It will allow me to heat up both tires on a burnout now, like a locker, but it will still act like a limited slip around corners and slick situations like rain or ice. I got the diff and all the needed parts from Randy's Ring and Pinion, extremely knowledgeable guys working there and super easy to deal with. And correct you keep the stock ring and pinion. You have to remove the old ring gear off the stock diff and put it on the truetrac. You have to hammer the hell out of the gear to get it off the old diff(using a rubber mallet so you dont damage the gear). And yup this is for the 9.75, when you order your diff they will ask you how many bolts are on your diff cover, Either 12 or I think 10 bolts depending on what rear end you have.

jcain

Surely you jest? Do you even understand HOW your ELD works, both engaged and not?

azdriver

I understand it disengages at 20 MPH. I also understand it is not supposed to be used on pavement. I also understand it make horrible noises when making a right turn on the pavement. It is awesome in the dirt/sand at VERY slow speeds. Other than that, thanks for your opinion.

jcain

So let me get this right, you lock it in when in dirt and sand and it works great, as it was designed for. It unlocks at 20mph (25 actually) because its useless above that, other than fish-tailing, as it was designed for. It chirps on right turns on hard surfaces (it'll do it going left too...) because it's a dead lock between the wheels, as it was designed for. Your truck, when the locker is NOT engaged, one-wheel peels around right turns, bogs down and short shifts as result. And I might add, that's by design. So what you're saying is, you knowingly bought a truck without an LSD rearend, wanted to fish-tail on pavement but couldn't, and now think the FAR superior ELD system is inferior? When in fact, my f150 eco would lay down TWO long strips, simultaneously I must add, with the supposed "useless" ELD system. You can turn tcs off once and it'll still bog, but if you hold the tcs for 8seconds or more and it'll almost completely remove the nanny and let you have the fun you're seeking, if you must. There's many a times an LSD is going to act the same way, so don't get too excited. Also, turn the ELD on before the corner and get the tires spinning before you want to act like a highschool kid and impress the girls.

azdriver

Wow, what a f'n tool.... Major thread derail.......

jcain

I forgot, you bolted a Maggie on and now you're above being called out, whoops...

pudge1515

Lol well that convo escalated quickly, but to keep the thread on topic I snapped a quick video for you guys of my new AFR gauge along with my existing boost gauge and stereo
Edit: haha fail, give me a sec I forgot I needed to upload it to photobucket first....



click on the pic and it will take you to the video