There is a fix for the condensation build up in the intercooler!
03-28-2014, 04:54 PM
#2431
Put a plastic fitting into the bottom of your CAC plug in a 1/8 inch air line to a stainless electric fuel valve. power it and operate it with a remote relay and a fob glued onto your dash. Simple reliable efficient. You can route it to a homemade PCV 6" container filled with stainless wool, just glue it together with cap and fittings plus a drain and drain it every 1000 miles or as needed. Fasten it to the frame with some large ty-raps or a steel L bracket. It has been offered up before in the threads. Unconventional but environmentally friendly. You can use power at the trailer brake port in the fuse box.
Of course I know this is just a Band-Aid of a damaged out of specs built system. LOL and Ford is doing something about it.
Wireless remote and relay $30
Stainless electric fuel valve 75
PCV pipe and fittings $20
Stainless floor drain cover inside the pipe for air space space for steel wool $7
Stainless wool $6
Piece of mind $ Priceless
Of course I know this is just a Band-Aid of a damaged out of specs built system. LOL and Ford is doing something about it.
Wireless remote and relay $30
Stainless electric fuel valve 75
PCV pipe and fittings $20
Stainless floor drain cover inside the pipe for air space space for steel wool $7
Stainless wool $6
Piece of mind $ Priceless
Last edited by papa tiger; 03-28-2014 at 05:04 PM.
03-28-2014, 05:59 PM
#2432
Senior Member
What we are saying is:
1. There are 2 sources of liquids in the intercooler. The catch can only fixes one of them. Fact.
2. Those who have logged it found that the eb f150 spends ~80% of the time with manifold vacuum not boost. You, yourself, said the eb pcv works fine while in vacuum.
3. There is little or no evidence that the 3.5 eb performance or mileage degrades due to a poorly designed pcv system, with 600,000 of them on the road.
4. There is little or no evidence that 3.5 eb oil quality is diminished due to a poorly designed pcv system, with 600,000 of them on the road.
5. The main proponent of the catch can that fixes the above "problems" happens to profit from the sales of them.
Last edited by engineermike; 03-28-2014 at 06:06 PM.
03-28-2014, 06:02 PM
#2433
Put a plastic fitting into the bottom of your CAC plug in a 1/8 inch air line to a stainless electric fuel valve. power it and operate it with a remote relay and a fob glued onto your dash. Simple reliable efficient. You can route it to a homemade PCV 6" container filled with stainless wool, just glue it together with cap and fittings plus a drain and drain it every 1000 miles or as needed. Fasten it to the frame with some large ty-raps or a steel L bracket. It has been offered up before in the threads. Unconventional but environmentally friendly. You can use power at the trailer brake port in the fuse box.
Of course I know this is just a Band-Aid of a damaged out of specs built system. LOL and Ford is doing something about it.
Wireless remote and relay $30
Stainless electric fuel valve 75
PCV pipe and fittings $20
Stainless floor drain cover inside the pipe for air space space for steel wool $7
Stainless wool $6
Piece of mind $ Priceless
Of course I know this is just a Band-Aid of a damaged out of specs built system. LOL and Ford is doing something about it.
Wireless remote and relay $30
Stainless electric fuel valve 75
PCV pipe and fittings $20
Stainless floor drain cover inside the pipe for air space space for steel wool $7
Stainless wool $6
Piece of mind $ Priceless
DC, so your happy with the engine as is. Thats great, but why go through so much effort to silence this info for others that want longer life and NO issues?
03-28-2014, 06:21 PM
#2434
Senior Member
Question, refute, agree, but not silence.
I asked for your views after reading many posts in various threads and you gave them. I posted my views and the reasoning behind them.
I did that because just throwing a statement out there will be either taken out of context, discounted or ignored if a person doesn't make clear why they made the statement.
Happy with my engines as is?
Absolutely. However I am a perfectionist and keep my trucks a long time and if I believe an aftermarket mod means more life and enjoyment from my trucks then it is hard for me to ignore it.
Does your catch can mods interest me. Absolutely, or I would not be subscribed to these threads.
But this thread is about condensation in the intercooler and crankcase emissions is only a part of the story. I'm sorry you can't get over that.
If you have noticed I have not posted any criticism in the other threads regarding catch can performance. In those threads it does what it should.
In this thread it is not a total fix.
03-28-2014, 06:51 PM
#2435
Senior Member
One thing is for sure. You guys have done a better job than ford of providing solutions to guys to make their trucks run the way they should from the factory.
The following users liked this post:
papa tiger (03-28-2014)
03-29-2014, 12:01 AM
#2436
One fellow had this to say in 2011 after installing a boost gauge and tapping into the intake manifold. With a slight difference it might possibly the gear ratio.
New Ecoboost Member
<li class="avatar">
<li class="group_title">EcoBoost Member <li class="group_icon">
<li class="post_count desc lighter"> 13 posts
All,
I installed a 2 1/16" Autometer "Cobalt" boost gauge over the weekend. I placed it where the stupid coin holder was just to the right of the steering column. This is on a 4x2, and I think that same spot is used for the 4x4 selector switch on the 4x4's. So that location won't work for you guys!
The installation was pretty easy all things concidered! There's a factory wiring harness (probably for the 4x4 switch) attached to the back of the coin holder. So the BLACK wire turned out to be ground and one of the PURPLE wires was dash lighting. So I made a little harness to attach those two to the gauge lighting.
The boost/vacuum line was installed back toward the rear passenger side of the intake manifold. There's a 3/8" vacuum line that I pulled off and made a "T" for it.
So it looks like it makes around 12-13lbs. of boost. I'll get a full quartermile reading next month.
The somewhat odd thing (compaired to our other turbo'd vehicles) is that at a cruise throttle position it has ZERO manifold pressure. It's not in vacuum or boost. If I move the throttle in either direction (deceleration or acceleration) then of course it swings to vacuum or boost repectively.
All other turbo cars (gasoline, not diesel) that I've driven have been in vacuum while just cruising.
This one said this.
Boostracer
Boostracer
Posted 30 August 2011 - 07:05 AM
I've seen similar readings, goes into slight vacuum at cruise, (3.73 gears), & into boost of course with any load--wind or hill. I've seen readings as high as 16 in the quarter although it backs off considerably before each shift.
New Ecoboost Member
<li class="avatar">
<li class="group_title">EcoBoost Member <li class="group_icon"> <li class="post_count desc lighter"> 13 posts - Current Vehicle:'11 Extended Cab, 3.55, 2wd
- Location:Tucson
- Interests:Best ET - 14.48@94 mph
All,
I installed a 2 1/16" Autometer "Cobalt" boost gauge over the weekend. I placed it where the stupid coin holder was just to the right of the steering column. This is on a 4x2, and I think that same spot is used for the 4x4 selector switch on the 4x4's. So that location won't work for you guys!
The installation was pretty easy all things concidered! There's a factory wiring harness (probably for the 4x4 switch) attached to the back of the coin holder. So the BLACK wire turned out to be ground and one of the PURPLE wires was dash lighting. So I made a little harness to attach those two to the gauge lighting.
The boost/vacuum line was installed back toward the rear passenger side of the intake manifold. There's a 3/8" vacuum line that I pulled off and made a "T" for it.
So it looks like it makes around 12-13lbs. of boost. I'll get a full quartermile reading next month.
The somewhat odd thing (compaired to our other turbo'd vehicles) is that at a cruise throttle position it has ZERO manifold pressure. It's not in vacuum or boost. If I move the throttle in either direction (deceleration or acceleration) then of course it swings to vacuum or boost repectively.
All other turbo cars (gasoline, not diesel) that I've driven have been in vacuum while just cruising.
This one said this.
Boostracer
Boostracer
- New Ecoboost Member
- EcoBoost Member
- 17 posts
- Current Vehicle:'08 F-150
- Location:Ca.
Posted 30 August 2011 - 07:05 AM
I've seen similar readings, goes into slight vacuum at cruise, (3.73 gears), & into boost of course with any load--wind or hill. I've seen readings as high as 16 in the quarter although it backs off considerably before each shift.
Last edited by papa tiger; 03-29-2014 at 12:14 AM.
03-29-2014, 09:42 AM
#2437
One fellow had this to say in 2011 after installing a boost gauge and tapping into the intake manifold. With a slight difference it might possibly the gear ratio.
New Ecoboost Member
<li class="avatar"> <li class="group_title">EcoBoost Member <li class="group_icon"> <li class="post_count desc lighter"> 13 posts
[*]Current Vehicle:'11 Extended Cab, 3.55, 2wd[*]Location:Tucson[*]Interests:Best ET - 14.48@94 mph
Posted 29 August 2011 - 02:32 PM
All,
I installed a 2 1/16" Autometer "Cobalt" boost gauge over the weekend. I placed it where the stupid coin holder was just to the right of the steering column. This is on a 4x2, and I think that same spot is used for the 4x4 selector switch on the 4x4's. So that location won't work for you guys!
The installation was pretty easy all things concidered! There's a factory wiring harness (probably for the 4x4 switch) attached to the back of the coin holder. So the BLACK wire turned out to be ground and one of the PURPLE wires was dash lighting. So I made a little harness to attach those two to the gauge lighting.
The boost/vacuum line was installed back toward the rear passenger side of the intake manifold. There's a 3/8" vacuum line that I pulled off and made a "T" for it.
So it looks like it makes around 12-13lbs. of boost. I'll get a full quartermile reading next month.
The somewhat odd thing (compaired to our other turbo'd vehicles) is that at a cruise throttle position it has ZERO manifold pressure. It's not in vacuum or boost. If I move the throttle in either direction (deceleration or acceleration) then of course it swings to vacuum or boost repectively.
All other turbo cars (gasoline, not diesel) that I've driven have been in vacuum while just cruising.
This one said this.
Boostracer
Boostracer
[*]New Ecoboost Member[*][*]EcoBoost Member[*][*] 17 posts
[*]Current Vehicle:'08 F-150[*]Location:Ca.
Posted 30 August 2011 - 07:05 AM
I've seen similar readings, goes into slight vacuum at cruise, (3.73 gears), & into boost of course with any load--wind or hill. I've seen readings as high as 16 in the quarter although it backs off considerably before each shift.
New Ecoboost Member
<li class="avatar"> <li class="group_title">EcoBoost Member <li class="group_icon"> <li class="post_count desc lighter"> 13 posts
[*]Current Vehicle:'11 Extended Cab, 3.55, 2wd[*]Location:Tucson[*]Interests:Best ET - 14.48@94 mph
Posted 29 August 2011 - 02:32 PM
All,
I installed a 2 1/16" Autometer "Cobalt" boost gauge over the weekend. I placed it where the stupid coin holder was just to the right of the steering column. This is on a 4x2, and I think that same spot is used for the 4x4 selector switch on the 4x4's. So that location won't work for you guys!
The installation was pretty easy all things concidered! There's a factory wiring harness (probably for the 4x4 switch) attached to the back of the coin holder. So the BLACK wire turned out to be ground and one of the PURPLE wires was dash lighting. So I made a little harness to attach those two to the gauge lighting.
The boost/vacuum line was installed back toward the rear passenger side of the intake manifold. There's a 3/8" vacuum line that I pulled off and made a "T" for it.
So it looks like it makes around 12-13lbs. of boost. I'll get a full quartermile reading next month.
The somewhat odd thing (compaired to our other turbo'd vehicles) is that at a cruise throttle position it has ZERO manifold pressure. It's not in vacuum or boost. If I move the throttle in either direction (deceleration or acceleration) then of course it swings to vacuum or boost repectively.
All other turbo cars (gasoline, not diesel) that I've driven have been in vacuum while just cruising.
This one said this.
Boostracer
Boostracer
[*]New Ecoboost Member[*][*]EcoBoost Member[*][*] 17 posts
[*]Current Vehicle:'08 F-150[*]Location:Ca.
Posted 30 August 2011 - 07:05 AM
I've seen similar readings, goes into slight vacuum at cruise, (3.73 gears), & into boost of course with any load--wind or hill. I've seen readings as high as 16 in the quarter although it backs off considerably before each shift.
It is great for reducing turbo lag though.
03-29-2014, 10:32 AM
#2438
Senior Member
Who are you arguing with here? For the 36839506th time...NO ONE is denying that the catch can captures stuff that is emitted from the crankcase. Repeatedly posting scary pictures of liquids drained from cans does not refute anything that myself, dcfluid, itguy, LastResort, generalpain, thecoog, or countless other "flat earthers" have posted. You either don't understand what we have said, or you're still lovin your straw man argument style.
What we are saying is:
1. There are 2 sources of liquids in the intercooler. The catch can only fixes one of them. Fact.
2. Those who have logged it found that the eb f150 spends ~80% of the time with manifold vacuum not boost. You, yourself, said the eb pcv works fine while in vacuum.
3. There is little or no evidence that the 3.5 eb performance or mileage degrades due to a poorly designed pcv system, with 600,000 of them on the road.
4. There is little or no evidence that 3.5 eb oil quality is diminished due to a poorly designed pcv system, with 600,000 of them on the road.
5. The main proponent of the catch can that fixes the above "problems" happens to profit from the sales of them.
What we are saying is:
1. There are 2 sources of liquids in the intercooler. The catch can only fixes one of them. Fact.
2. Those who have logged it found that the eb f150 spends ~80% of the time with manifold vacuum not boost. You, yourself, said the eb pcv works fine while in vacuum.
3. There is little or no evidence that the 3.5 eb performance or mileage degrades due to a poorly designed pcv system, with 600,000 of them on the road.
4. There is little or no evidence that 3.5 eb oil quality is diminished due to a poorly designed pcv system, with 600,000 of them on the road.
5. The main proponent of the catch can that fixes the above "problems" happens to profit from the sales of them.
03-29-2014, 11:11 AM
#2439
If you had a turbo system with a lot of turbo lag then you could expect large PCV intake manifold vacuum/HG, well below 29.5, negative numbers from that reference point until the turbo begins to catch up and boost. 29.5 HG or thereabouts is not a measurement of vacuum in the intake manifold. You need high negative numbers below 29.5 HG.
Last edited by papa tiger; 03-29-2014 at 11:26 AM.
03-29-2014, 11:39 AM
#2440
Senior Member
Do you agree that atmospheric air has moisture in it? Yes or no.
Do you agree that this moisture can be condensed into liquid without combustion? Yes or no.
Do you agree that water is a basic product of combustion NOT related to air humidity? Yes or no.
Last edited by engineermike; 03-29-2014 at 11:59 AM.