SP-534 Spark Plug Change 38K
#1
Paint Polishing Guru
Thread Starter
SP-534 Spark Plug Change 38K
We'll I thought it was time to check the plugs, and I'm glad I did. While the plugs them sells showed I'm running ever so slightly rich, which is okay. I noticed the plug on the left front side was cracked, so that confirmed to me the funny excelerations i've been having lately. I'll watch that same coil to see if it produces another cracked plug, if so I'll replace the coil or have it replaced by warranty.
I checked the gap with feeler gages at out of the box they were .030! Wow, and only one needed a slight adjustment. An old timer in my neighborhood had this ever so cleaver adjustment tool, it griped the ground electrode and could adjust the gap WITHOUT touching the electrode. I've not seen one like that, but I'm sure others here have.
The only real tricky part of the whole change was the right rear plug, and removing that connector that prevents you from accessing the coil. I still don't know for sure how I got it off, or where the release was but got it off.
The plugs seemed pretty dang tight, so I untorqued them very slowly. Now these were the plugs put in by the factory. My truck is almost 2yrs old, and had 38,000 miles on these plugs. I would bet the cracked one went bad a few months ago.
I pulled the plugs when the engine was colder, I didn't use any penetration fluid to remove the plugs, I didnt use anti seize on the new plugs, and I torqued them down to 11ft# (which felt much less than I suspected), and all seems fine after some 300miles now.
For those considering changing their own plugs its not that hard, it took me about 1.5hrs, a few broken red tabs on the coil connectors (). You will want two shorter extensions to reach the plugs against the firewall area, as a single longer won't fit, that ate up some time finding one to borrow.
Here are some photos of plugs.
If you were looking at the engine, these plugs are layed out like they appear in the engine, all cylinders appear to be firing properly.
Cracked plug:
Plug close up
Cheers,
GREG
I checked the gap with feeler gages at out of the box they were .030! Wow, and only one needed a slight adjustment. An old timer in my neighborhood had this ever so cleaver adjustment tool, it griped the ground electrode and could adjust the gap WITHOUT touching the electrode. I've not seen one like that, but I'm sure others here have.
The only real tricky part of the whole change was the right rear plug, and removing that connector that prevents you from accessing the coil. I still don't know for sure how I got it off, or where the release was but got it off.
The plugs seemed pretty dang tight, so I untorqued them very slowly. Now these were the plugs put in by the factory. My truck is almost 2yrs old, and had 38,000 miles on these plugs. I would bet the cracked one went bad a few months ago.
I pulled the plugs when the engine was colder, I didn't use any penetration fluid to remove the plugs, I didnt use anti seize on the new plugs, and I torqued them down to 11ft# (which felt much less than I suspected), and all seems fine after some 300miles now.
For those considering changing their own plugs its not that hard, it took me about 1.5hrs, a few broken red tabs on the coil connectors (). You will want two shorter extensions to reach the plugs against the firewall area, as a single longer won't fit, that ate up some time finding one to borrow.
Here are some photos of plugs.
If you were looking at the engine, these plugs are layed out like they appear in the engine, all cylinders appear to be firing properly.
Cracked plug:
Plug close up
Cheers,
GREG
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FX4EcoScrew (11-25-2014)
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Reflections Detail (11-24-2014)
#3
Paint Polishing Guru
Thread Starter
I didn't know to replace the boot cover, glad you pointed that out to me!
I'm still unsure about the anti seize, I wonder if ford specs to use it? Anyone have access to that?
Cheers,
GREG
I'm still unsure about the anti seize, I wonder if ford specs to use it? Anyone have access to that?
Cheers,
GREG
#4
Senior Member
I do it the same way including the dielectric grease in the boots, the anti-seize, and the way he tightens them down. I haven't replaced the boots because I have not had a problem with the carbon tracking. The only diff is I gap the plugs to .025 with my tunes.
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Reflections Detail (11-24-2014)
#5
One Clean Machine
iTrader: (5)
I broke one of the red plastic tabs myself! I had 58,600 miles on my 12 EB, but no issues or carbon tracking on my old plugs!
It was fairly easy to replace them, followed the same procedure minus using anti seize on the plugs!
It was fairly easy to replace them, followed the same procedure minus using anti seize on the plugs!
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Reflections Detail (11-24-2014)
#6
I've heard some people say using anti-seize creates the potential to over torque the plugs, but I personally don't know if it's enough to cause problems. I know I've always used a little anti-seize myself though. So far I've never had any issues and it sure does make them easier to get out the next time.
#7
One Clean Machine
iTrader: (5)
I've heard some people say using anti-seize creates the potential to over torque the plugs, but I personally don't know if it's enough to cause problems. I know I've always used a little anti-seize myself though. So far I've never had any issues and it sure does make them easier to get out the next time.
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#8
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Missouri Ozarks & Clay Country GA
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I always vacuum instead of using a blower. Just seems like vacuuming stuff out would be better than blowing mess all over. I think different though. Drums beating in me old haid. That's wha' I walk to.
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Toddman38 (11-25-2014)
#9
Paint Polishing Guru
Thread Starter
so I asked today a few Mechanics I knew about Anti Seize on plugs, a few of them are Ford Mechanics. They all said its not a bad idea, but use a TINY bit as preventive measures.
So take this info for what its worth.
Cheers,
GREG
So take this info for what its worth.
Cheers,
GREG
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brucesears (11-26-2014)
#10
Senior Member
The first time out mine were a bitch with only 8k miles. WAY over 11 ft/lbs. Wondered if the head was going to strip threads. I just use a tiny bit of anti-seize probably half what he used in the video. Been snug but easy the last two times.