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Plug Change with Pictures

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Old 09-09-2014, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by SkiSmuggs
Keep us updated. I had just posted dealer caused issues I had with over torquing during installation on the SP-534.
They are a nut buster to get out. I had to put a short cheater on my ratchet to break them loose. Plus they have some yellow crap on the insulator that looks like blow by from the cylinder or something.
Old 09-09-2014, 08:12 PM
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I don't mind dropping the coin if it works
Old 09-10-2014, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Kenferg1
They are a nut buster to get out. I had to put a short cheater on my ratchet to break them loose. Plus they have some yellow crap on the insulator that looks like blow by from the cylinder or something.
Yeah, when that happened on mine with only a couple hundred miles on new ones, I knew the dealer had over torqued them. So now I have to replace them myself.
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SkiSmuggs
Yeah, when that happened on mine with only a couple hundred miles on new ones, I knew the dealer had over torqued them. So now I have to replace them myself.
It's amazing to me that Ford specs 11lb/ft of torque and still these guys crank down on these aluminum heads. I put mine in hand tight, then snugged them down. I don't own a torque wrench that goes that low, so I just used a little common sense.
Old 09-12-2014, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Kenferg1
I also changed mine this past weekend. I installed the new MSD plugs. It began to idle rough and had a slight miss at about 2500 rpm. With these new plugs the idle has smoothed out. I am looking forward to towing to see if they make an improvement under heavy and constant boost. The Motorcrafts have about 26k miles on them. I replaced the originals at 28k miles. The gap on these we're all at .035 or a little wider. The MSDs are gapped from the factory at .031.

Notice in the pic two big differences. The plug tip is substantial compared to the Motorcrafts. Also, the ceramic insulator is thick and consistent. These plugs feel heavier compared to the MCs. MSD claims and demonstrates in a video the ability to maintain the spark intensity while under boost. I guess I'll find out. Oh, and I run my truck with the stock tune (that may change by spring). The butt dyno can't tell, and all Ecos smooth out with with new plugs. I'm looking for longevity (I'd be happy with 50k miles). Time will tell!
Quick note on insulators: that ribbed surface on the oem plug is by design. It increases the surface distance between the metallic connection and head (grounded). This translates to lower electrical leakage. Look at the insulators on a transformer or high tension electrical towers. Same principle.

The electrode does look more stout. Am a little concerned that the MSD appears to project a little further into the combustion chamber. Anyone have any specs on piston top to plug clearance in the EB?

Would also like to see a lineup photo of MC vs MSD vs NGK vs Denso etc plugs.


The MSD video would be convincing if they told us the make, model and gapping of their plug vs the competition. Without that, it's marketing BS. I like MSD, but I hate vids with no supporting data.

lastly, any recommendations on torque wrenches for EB plug changes? Only 2k miles on mine, so have not attempted yet . don't know how much room I will be working with. Thanks!
Old 09-12-2014, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by millwrat
Quick note on insulators: that ribbed surface on the oem plug is by design. It increases the surface distance between the metallic connection and head (grounded). This translates to lower electrical leakage. Look at the insulators on a transformer or high tension electrical towers. Same principle. The electrode does look more stout. Am a little concerned that the MSD appears to project a little further into the combustion chamber. Anyone have any specs on piston top to plug clearance in the EB? Would also like to see a lineup photo of MC vs MSD vs NGK vs Denso etc plugs. The MSD video would be convincing if they told us the make, model and gapping of their plug vs the competition. Without that, it's marketing BS. I like MSD, but I hate vids with no supporting data. lastly, any recommendations on torque wrenches for EB plug changes? Only 2k miles on mine, so have not attempted yet . don't know how much room I will be working with. Thanks!
Distance doesn't matter if the ceramic is fracturing and allowing direct leak to ground such has been demonstrated by another forum member who is a Ford tech. I doubt seriously that MSD is going to put a plug on the market that will trash pistons. As for marketing BS, call them on it. It's advertising, and there are truth in advertising laws consumers have to use against unscrupulous companies. As for the torque wrench there are some out there calibrated to inch pounds. But I don't know that it's worth the investment unless for just plug changes. You might check the local parts store and see if you can rent one or borrow if you buy your plugs there.
Old 09-12-2014, 02:43 PM
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I was more interested in torque wrench length that could fit in the engine bay without hitting other stuff. I have a 1/2" drive torque wrench which is fairly large. Wondering if I should look around for a 3/8 or even 1/4 drive if getting at the plug was too tight. edit: will need something smaller anyway as accuracy of the 1/2" TW will be lousy @ 11ft-lbs. Excuse for a new tool

I've seen cracked insulators on plugs (other vehicles, this is my first f150) where wrenches were not perpendicular to the plug and binded up. Agreed that any intact insulator is better than cracked, but the ribbing in plugs is by design. Maybe MSD knows something other mfg don't.

No idea how much clearance between piston and plug is present, hence the question. I would guess that Ford placed the gap at a location for optimum combustion, reliability or some combination therein. MSD's video does not appear to mimic an actual operating combustion chamber shape, so absent more information on the test setup and plug specs, am taking it with a very large grain of salt. Hope it works, but will wait for some end-user EB tests with 10k+ miles before trying.

Last edited by millwrat; 09-12-2014 at 03:19 PM. Reason: brain getting old
Old 09-12-2014, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by millwrat
I was more interested in torque wrench length that could fit in the engine bay without hitting other stuff. I have a 1/2" drive torque wrench which is fairly large. Wondering if I should look around for a 3/8 or even 1/4 drive if getting at the plug was too tight. edit: will need something smaller anyway as accuracy of the 1/2" TW will be lousy @ 11ft-lbs. Excuse for a new tool I've seen cracked insulators on plugs (other vehicles, this is my first f150) where wrenches were not perpendicular to the plug and binded up. Agreed that any intact insulator is better than cracked, but the ribbing in plugs is by design. Maybe MSD knows something other mfg don't. No idea how much clearance between piston and plug is present, hence the question. I would guess that Ford placed the gap at a location for optimum combustion, reliability or some combination therein. MSD's video does not appear to mimic an actual operating combustion chamber shape, so absent more information on the test setup and plug specs, am taking it with a very large grain of salt. Hope it works, but will wait for some end-user EB tests with 10k+ miles before trying.
I'll let you know. I'll have a couple thousand on within the next month with about a thousand of that towing my 6000# TT.
Old 09-12-2014, 11:55 PM
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With the Ford scheduled replacement at 100,000 miles, I presume these are iridium plugs. Why replace them so early?
Old 09-13-2014, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Ron AKA
With the Ford scheduled replacement at 100,000 miles, I presume these are iridium plugs. Why replace them so early?
If you use the truck as a dd easy driving 100,000 might be OK. Working these engines/tuning appear to make them eat plugs. With the towing I do and running a tune, I plan on plugs being basically a yearly maintenance item(30,000 miles).


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