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O2 Sensor Voltage Question

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Old 08-26-2016, 06:48 PM
  #11  
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I planned on taking them out this weekend (if I can). I've been trying to understand what is going on by looking at each of the sensors. I almost think I have a two-fold problem going on. One.... Passenger side CAT inefficient (currently still within spec), and two a slow responding FRONT passenger side wide band sensor. I feel like actually both CATS are slightly on the inefficient side by looking at the readings but only being able to look at one sensor at a time really inhibits me from looking at all four sensors simultaneously. I'm about to just bite the bullet and buy AutoTap (or something similar) so
I can verify by charting all four real time.
At the current moment, I really would love to buy high flow cats and new O2 sensors and I probably would have if I had $1,000 to throw at it in hopes it would cure it.

A lot of places I've read say it's recommended replacing O2-A/F sensors every 100,000 miles. I have 112k miles so I wonder if there is something to that. Haha


Also, another bit of information why I'm leaning towards cats/sensors. On my scanner, I cannot get my I/M Readiness test to pass. My wife's 2015 Explorer checks okay no problem. Again, I do not have a CEL. I plan on installing the stock tune and driving a few days to confirm its not just a tune issue.

Last edited by PSI-FX4; 08-26-2016 at 06:51 PM.
Old 08-26-2016, 07:12 PM
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Ya I think I may just bite the bullet and try catless downpipes. Between the soot collecting on the o2's, leaking air from what sounds like the wastegates on heavy acceleration, oil leaks at the valve covers, negative fuel trims...coupled with repeated gulps of moisture and excessive misfires during the first year of ownership...I just gotta gamble and go with clogged cats, even though I have never had those codes
Old 08-28-2016, 11:17 PM
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I've been doing some driving and comparing. Compared to my wife's explorer the rear O2 sensor readings on a WOT run dipped only to .7 volts then spiked at .85 volts. My trucks voltage dipped to .135 volts (both sides), then spiked at .8 volts. Not sure this it normal, but I image it is not. Time to do some studying on what should be happening in healthy converters.
Old 08-28-2016, 11:27 PM
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Going to take an oscillating tool to mine, make a flap peel it back, pull out the material, then seal back up. If it runs better I'll get some downpipes. Hoping to do it this week
Old 08-29-2016, 12:22 AM
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If you haven't done so already - I suggest you register for 3 days of access to motorcraftservice.com - it has all of the specs that dealer techs use to diagnose problems, it was a huge help in solving my mysterious P0171/P0174 codes.

From what I learned, as long as the LTFT are ~20%, you're within the acceptable range. The computer can command up to 30% more fuel than the base map calls for however.
Old 08-29-2016, 11:39 AM
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This morning, I monitored my catalytic temperatures just out of curiosity. While crossing a small hill/mountain in 4th gear going 40-45mph up the grade (curvy road) the cat temps reached 1,445 degrees F. Maybe I'm mistaken, but I thought anything over 1,300 degrees was bad news?
While cruising at hwy speeds they stayed a pretty constant 1200-1250 degrees. Again not sure if this is within operating specs, but I will check into that website to compare. I have a friend that works at Ford and was going to hopefully get him to gather up the info for me, but if I can do it myself that would be great.

Everything still points to weak catalytic converters and I've got a friend of mine that owns a speed shop getting me a price on a Kook's catted downpipe for me. If I can get it through him for 200-300 more than what I can with Solo, Stainless Works, ect. for I'm going with Kook's as I've ran their products on several other vehicles before. I've searched and searched about catted downpipes, and I realize there are cheaper out there, but it seems like Kook's have had a pretty positive review from what everything I was able to find. If I go the new downpipe route, I will also be doing new O2 sensors while I am into it.
Old 08-29-2016, 06:00 PM
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Those temps are fine. You start getting over 1600-1700 you can have issues
Old 08-30-2016, 07:00 AM
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Kooks is way over priced livernois is made by ARH(american racing) who in my mind for the 03-04 Cobra's, new mustangs and the corvettes make better headers!

Look at the livernois pipe its made by one of the best header companies out there and its way cheaper than kooks.

I am very happy with my ARH pipe.
Old 08-30-2016, 09:56 AM
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I have looked into those pipes. As well as Mak, Solo, Stainless Works, PPE, etc. I've done hours of using the "search" tool on this forum and I have found on several occasions people having fitment issues with the Livernois catted mid pipes (same with Stainless Works, etc). Main issue is a "buzzing" sound from the pipes hitting the transmission crossmember from what I've been able to find. I have not been able to find any negative complaints about the Kooks other than the price. I had kooks on my 800hp Corvette and have been around many ARH headers when I was in the Corvette scene (helped install them as well). While they do work well, the fitment of the Kooks was 10:1 better all around, IMO. Just by going on that experience, you do get what you pay for, I truly believe.
Unless there is a vendor cheaper, the Livernois pipe is $730 (banking on that I can get free shipping), and I can get the Kooks (non Green cat version) for $870 tax/shipping included, or the Green Catted version for $1175.

I was leaning towards the non green catted Kooks for $140 more than the Livernois. Looking at the difference of the pipes themselves, Kooks looks like a much better design. Again, this is just my opinion. Another one I'm heavily looking at is the Full-Race catted version, for about the same price as the Kooks.
Livernois:


Kooks:




Oh, and BTW, I let a buddy take a look at my videos that I made of the sensor readings at idle and driving. I have been driving around with the stock tune for a day or so, and no change. He confirmed my suspicions (wyotech grad, ase mechanic, master ford tech, etc.). Passenger side cat is on its way out, driver side isn't too far behind. He recommended replacing both cats and all O2 sensors while I was at it (if I was going to buy an aftermarket mid-pipe anyways).

Last edited by PSI-FX4; 08-30-2016 at 10:47 AM.
Old 08-31-2016, 08:28 PM
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Thanks for keeping the thread updated. Do you have any guess as to what caused the cat to fail so early? Running too rich, water ingestion etc? Let us know if the new cats and o2 sensors cure the issue.


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