*HEADS-UP* Oil Catch Cans Mounted in FRONT of RADIATOR
12-26-2015, 12:24 AM
#31
Well it is possible because it happened to me, I guess i should have taken pictures but i already pulled everything off the truck and thawed it out. I had the optional diffuser installed, and the outlet features a plate with a bunch of holes drilled in it, all but one of those holes was frozen shut when i took it off and inspected it. I had it mounted the same way that the guy that started this tread did (on the outside of the rad). I pulled it off as soon as i got home from about a 100 km highway run, and that was the situation. There was just too much water being condensed for the oil to keep it liquid.
As the oil/water vapour moves through, it condenses and freezes on the cold metal eventually blocking it. The highway speed and mounting position may have played a factor in it, so a heater or insulator might work, but I installed it as per the instructions in the kit. I guess the vapours aren't hot enough to deal with the onslaught of a mild canadian winter.
I explained it to the guy at UPR, and he basically said that he can't return it because it's been used, which I understand. I'm not an employee or a competitor, just a little dissappointed that I wasted 150 bucks on something that didn't work for me. (which is like 230 bucks for us canadians). I might try installing it inside the engine bay, but when i leave my truck outside in -20C all winter i don't know if i would trust it.
As the oil/water vapour moves through, it condenses and freezes on the cold metal eventually blocking it. The highway speed and mounting position may have played a factor in it, so a heater or insulator might work, but I installed it as per the instructions in the kit. I guess the vapours aren't hot enough to deal with the onslaught of a mild canadian winter.
I explained it to the guy at UPR, and he basically said that he can't return it because it's been used, which I understand. I'm not an employee or a competitor, just a little dissappointed that I wasted 150 bucks on something that didn't work for me. (which is like 230 bucks for us canadians). I might try installing it inside the engine bay, but when i leave my truck outside in -20C all winter i don't know if i would trust it.
12-26-2015, 12:31 AM
#32
Laytunes is suggesting that it doesn't matter what size the can is, because the naturally occuring water vapor running thru the system is heavy enough in these low temps to clog the diffuser right up. I'm trying to figure out if that's true or not. I want answers. This is very concerning to me because I have the UPR big can / diffuser mounted in front of the rad on my 5.0, and as of this week, I'm spending alot more time in winter mountain environments for the first time ever, on top of an ultra cold weather system that just came in. Until now my truck and UPR can has always been in an environment that stayed above 35F.
I'm worried sick now. I'm up here at my parents place where itll reach -10C tonight. I don't have my stock PCV hose with me, so removing my can for the drive home is not an option.
Are the holes in the diffuser subject to trapping ice as you drive down the highway exposing the can to wind chills that are God knows how cold, until all the holes are plugged and the diffuser reaches the point of total blockage???? Is that why Joe wants us to put thermal socks on them, because this is a very real threat that will **** someone's engine at the drop of a hat? And if it could happen there, that means it could happen at the mesh section of the can too, right? In my case, wire mesh.
Last edited by johndog82; 12-26-2015 at 01:20 AM.
12-26-2015, 01:14 AM
#33
Senior Member
The amount of water in the air decreases as temperature decreases. Warmer air holds more water. For instance, 0 degree air at 90% humidity has less water in the air than 80 degree air at 30% humidity. Humidity is simply a ratio of how much water the air is holding. At 80 degrees, the air is holding 30% of the moisture its capable of holding. You actually calculate grains per pound to figure out how much moisture is actually in the air.
None of this matters though. What matters is dew point. Dew point is the temp at which water condenses out of the air. When dew point is equal to ambient temp, condensation forms. Adding pressure raises the dew point of an air mass. So...the air mass itself may be close to dew point but not forming condensation. Pressure inside the engine can increase the dew point of the air mass to match ambient temp(the point condensation will form).
None of this matters though. What matters is dew point. Dew point is the temp at which water condenses out of the air. When dew point is equal to ambient temp, condensation forms. Adding pressure raises the dew point of an air mass. So...the air mass itself may be close to dew point but not forming condensation. Pressure inside the engine can increase the dew point of the air mass to match ambient temp(the point condensation will form).
12-26-2015, 09:17 AM
#34
Just to chime in on a keep it simple stupid thing many owners do in the cold is to just run a thick thermal sock over the can. You can get them for about $22 a pair on amazon and they work pretty good. disconnect the hoses and slide the sock over the can and just cut hole where the fittings are and re-install the hoses. When you go on amazon just search ( Dexshell Waterproof Socks ) I used to use them when I lived in CT and would ride ATV's and go out in the winter and put them through the ringer.
Either way it's a simple solution to keep the can warm. But if your vehicle sees below freezing weather overnight and stays in a carport or outdoors you can just simply pour boiling water in the can if you are that concerned or just relocate it to the engine bay on the front driverside so you keep the benefit of the hose length and allow the system to properly coalesce and condense the oil vapors.
There is no real threat that it will harm your engine if you want to take it a step further you can always T the dirty line and run a check valve on it so it can bleed off pressure. This is another upgrade we have come up with to keep your minds at ease.
Joe
Either way it's a simple solution to keep the can warm. But if your vehicle sees below freezing weather overnight and stays in a carport or outdoors you can just simply pour boiling water in the can if you are that concerned or just relocate it to the engine bay on the front driverside so you keep the benefit of the hose length and allow the system to properly coalesce and condense the oil vapors.
There is no real threat that it will harm your engine if you want to take it a step further you can always T the dirty line and run a check valve on it so it can bleed off pressure. This is another upgrade we have come up with to keep your minds at ease.
Joe
12-26-2015, 09:57 AM
#35
This is the easiest way to always have a bypass for excessive crankcase pressure and keep your vehicle running perfect.
This keeps a perfectly sealed crankcase and will only by-pass / vent positive pressure our when needed. This is also great for
boosted engines.
This is a system we also offer for any catch can setup.
Joe
Last edited by Joe@UPR; 12-26-2015 at 10:17 AM.
12-26-2015, 11:13 AM
#36
Are you just speculating that your diffuser isn't clogging with ice, or do you have first hand evidence that it isn't clogging?
Laytunes is suggesting that it doesn't matter what size the can is, because the naturally occuring water vapor running thru the system is heavy enough in these low temps to clog the diffuser right up. I'm trying to figure out if that's true or not. I want answers. This is very concerning to me because I have the UPR big can / diffuser mounted in front of the rad on my 5.0, and as of this week, I'm spending alot more time in winter mountain environments for the first time ever, on top of an ultra cold weather system that just came in. Until now my truck and UPR can has always been in an environment that stayed above 35F.
I'm worried sick now. I'm up here at my parents place where itll reach -10C tonight. I don't have my stock PCV hose with me, so removing my can for the drive home is not an option.
Are the holes in the diffuser subject to trapping ice as you drive down the highway exposing the can to wind chills that are God knows how cold, until all the holes are plugged and the diffuser reaches the point of total blockage???? Is that why Joe wants us to put thermal socks on them, because this is a very real threat that will **** someone's engine at the drop of a hat? And if it could happen there, that means it could happen at the mesh section of the can too, right? In my case, wire mesh.
Laytunes is suggesting that it doesn't matter what size the can is, because the naturally occuring water vapor running thru the system is heavy enough in these low temps to clog the diffuser right up. I'm trying to figure out if that's true or not. I want answers. This is very concerning to me because I have the UPR big can / diffuser mounted in front of the rad on my 5.0, and as of this week, I'm spending alot more time in winter mountain environments for the first time ever, on top of an ultra cold weather system that just came in. Until now my truck and UPR can has always been in an environment that stayed above 35F.
I'm worried sick now. I'm up here at my parents place where itll reach -10C tonight. I don't have my stock PCV hose with me, so removing my can for the drive home is not an option.
Are the holes in the diffuser subject to trapping ice as you drive down the highway exposing the can to wind chills that are God knows how cold, until all the holes are plugged and the diffuser reaches the point of total blockage???? Is that why Joe wants us to put thermal socks on them, because this is a very real threat that will **** someone's engine at the drop of a hat? And if it could happen there, that means it could happen at the mesh section of the can too, right? In my case, wire mesh.
Just jump the two hoses together until you get out of frigid cold country making sure of no vacuum leak at the connection site. .