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First oil change, which oil?

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Old 04-29-2011, 11:45 PM
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Go to www.bobistheoilguy.com to find out about formulation changes to Mobil 1. There is a lot of info on this site about this topic, as well as many other discussions about motor oils.
Old 04-30-2011, 12:31 AM
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For my first oil change I bought my filter (FL2055) and oil (Motorcraft full synthetic 5w30) from the Ford dealer down the street.This is the foundation of the maintenance records for this new truck and engine. It'd be hard to deny warranty to someone using Ford's finest oil and filter.

At the dealer's part counter was a banner declaring: auto parts generic conventional oil = GOOD; Motorcraft semi synthetic = BETTER; and Motorcraft full synthetic oil = BEST.

Very typical of your dealer parts counter trying to improve profits. Having said that, if you will take the time to check the high temp flash point and low temp pour points for Mobil 1 VS Motorcraft Full Synthetic, the MC beats Mobil 1 by a small margin.

Does it make any difference in the long run? Maybe, but probably not. In my Mazdaspeed 3 I used Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 because it carried the Honda HTO-06 turbo charger spec and in used oil analysis the PP held up well to the fuel dilution issues the MS3 engine is noted for. In that car (whose engine is lovingly referred to as "the little volcano" by MS3 enthusiasts) the PP also held up well and kept the engine remarkably clean inside at 5,000 oil changes.

After the MC full synthetic has run 5k miles I plan to use PP in my EB with 5k mile OCIs, based on my prior experience. Mobil 1 5w30 also carries the HTO-06 spec so I'm sure it will be fine as well.

Swing on by bobistheoilguy and spend some time in the used oil analysis section in the forums - some surprising stuff in there!
Old 05-01-2011, 05:09 AM
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Just completed my first oil change. Used Pennzoil Platinum 5w/30 due to the great responses on BITOG and the Fl2055.
First gripe: The truck has a nice tray with a drain spout under the oil filter that looks like it will channel the oil forward for a drain pan. Well not one drop of my oil went down the chute. Instead it all ran over the back lip of the tray, down and out the middle of the skid plate. Truck was level.
Second gripe: Pulled off the fibrous skid plate to access the drain plug. Positioned the drain pan where I thought the arc of warm oil would land, took out the drain bolt, the oil shot out hit the sway bar and went multiple directions. Thank God I had a giant steel oil catch tray to put the pan on. It caught most of the oil but the driveway and I took a small hit as well.
Old 05-01-2011, 06:30 AM
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Ahhh the joys of the DIY oil change...scalding hot oil running down past the elbow to the armpit, salty slush in the eyes, huge mess on the floor...can't wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Old 05-01-2011, 08:32 AM
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Not when you have a lift
Old 05-01-2011, 08:59 AM
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I performed my initial oil change on my EB at 1000 miles. I work at the engine plant and I know that machining parts means machining debris. So it is just a personal preference of mine. The FL-2055 oil filter was a dealer only item when I changed my oil a few weeks ago and it cost $21.00 bucks! I used Mobil 1 5w-30 in my vehicle, as I have done in all pervious vehicles and it performs great! There is a skid plate which has to be removed in addition to the transcover. I personally just removed the (4) bolts in the skid plate and the (4) twist fasteners on the rear of the skid plate where the trans cover attached. I left the front (4) twist fasteners on and let the skid plate just kinda hang there. Removed all (4) of the trans cover twist fasteners and removed it. The drain plug is located on the passenger side of the oil pan and the oil stream hits the swaybar just right until some of the pressure decreases, then it will go into the oil pan. The filter was removed from the top side. Another cover underneath it catches some of the oil but it cleans up pretty easy. FL-2055 "ONLY" was stated on my filter from the factory. Again I could only find it at the dealership. The oil change was different buy not difficult. Full Synthetic is the way to go it coats the moving parts while the oil is still in the pan at startup. Wear at teardown is very minimal. I use it in my motorcycles and race vehicles also and wear is minimal as I stated. Good luck and enjoy, and thanks for buying a Ford we appriciate your business very much.
Old 05-01-2011, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by tzolk
Pulled off the fibrous skid plate to access the drain plug. Positioned the drain pan where I thought the arc of warm oil would land, took out the drain bolt, the oil shot out hit the sway bar and went multiple directions. Thank God I had a giant steel oil catch tray to put the pan on. It caught most of the oil but the driveway and I took a small hit as well.
Yeah, I think 2 or 3 drops of oil actually made it into the drain pan on mine, lol.
On my next oil change, I am going to hold a funnel at the oil drain to try to catch and direct the oil into the pan.

I worked for a trucking company for 9 years. Our trucks held 44qts of oil. I NEVER made a mess as big as the one with this pickup
Old 05-01-2011, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Screwy '01
Not when you have a lift
I'm jealous. I have a driveway with car ramps
Old 05-02-2011, 10:14 AM
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Speaking of oil...

I'm 6'3" tall and almost need a step ladder to reach the Dispstick on my EcoBoost
Old 05-02-2011, 10:51 AM
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Just wanted to share, that i had a recent trip this weekend all highway. round trip of about 150 miles.

consistently got 20mpg at 65-70mph. I changed my oil at 1200 miles to Mobile 1 syn.

Truck now has 1400 miles. glad its finally breaking in!


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