First oil change, which oil?
#12
And what is wrong with waiting till 10K. The filter prevents particulate from circulating through the engine. I personally think that anyone changing their oil really early is wasting their money. If you remember and saw the teardown of the torture test ecoboost, the cylinder walls still showed clear hatch marks on the cylinder walls. I guess the rings were real soft and couldn't score the cylinder walls. Ha ha.
That doesn't mean that there couldn't be contaminants from the engine build but I suspect nothing to worry about or we would be told to change oil sooner the first time.
Al
That doesn't mean that there couldn't be contaminants from the engine build but I suspect nothing to worry about or we would be told to change oil sooner the first time.
Al
#13
Senior Member
Considering that Ford has a new, larger oil filter for the Ecoboost, I think that I will change my oil early the first time since it has the original, smaller factory oil filter on it right now.
#14
Just rolled over 1200 miles on the Ecoboost and I have time for an oil change finally. I know the recommended weight is 5-30 but I can't decide which oil. I want to go with a synthetic and the one I have used the most in the past is Amsoil. Does that sound like a good plan? How about oil filters? Stick with OEM one or go with an Amsoil or other brand?
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
I would stick with the Amsoil. I have been in the lubricants business for 16 years and it is my professional opinion that Amsoil makes some of the best lubricants products available. They have been making synthetic oils longer that anyone, synthetics is all they make so they better be good at it.
I don't and won't trust manufacturer oils. Usually they are made by whomever will make it the most cost effective for the vehicle manufacturer, then they play the "scare tactic" game making the consumer believe they must use their product or it may void the warranty. All a bunch of BS. GM is now pulling this with their new "DEXOS 1" motor oil, attempting to convince their customers that the oil life monitors can detect this new oil...
Are there other good oils out there for our F-150's? Sure, but do your research. Is Motorcraft adequate? Yes, but adequate doesn't make me feel very good about it. I want a product that "exceeds" the manufacturers specification.
Mobil is a huge company and their synthetic oils make up a very small percentage of their overall product line. Mobil 1 is NOT what it used to be few years ago, yet people still fork out a premium money for that product. Amsoil is a smaller company who's synthetic line makes up 100% of their product line. Easy decision for me!
#15
According to Ford it is a bad idea to change oil early. The truck rolls out with a speacial oil for the break in period and it is recommended to keep it in until the first oil change is due. It helps seat the rings and all the other moving parts in the engine. Also supposedly helps the valve train during the first few thousand miles to prevent corrosion and build up. As for me, I am waiting to 7500 miles or 6 months which ever comes first.....
John Deere Break-In Oil
from John Deere product support
Related Pages
Service tips
Service tips
Background
The first 100 hours of operation are critical to the life and performance of an engine. During the first hours of operation, the rings and liners must seat (establish a pattern) for proper performance. If this does not occur, the life of the engine can be adversely affected.
John Deere Engine Break-In Oil (part number TY22057) is a special-blend oil developed to be used in rebuilt or remanufactured engines and new John Deere engines during the break-in period.
This unique oil is formulated with special additives to allow the power cylinder components (pistons and liners) to "wear-in" while protecting other engine components (valve train and gears) from abnormal wear. These additives control piston and liner seating without scuffing. This oil also provides excellent piston deposit control. As a result, piston rings and liners establish a good wear pattern for maximum performance and extended engine life.
High-quality premium engine oils should not be used as a break-in oil. The superior anti-wear characteristics of premium oils will inhibit the proper matching of components which could result in excessive oil consumption.
John Deere Break-In Oil is an excellent oil for new or rebuilt non-John Deere engines. Engine rebuild instructions should be consulted to determine if special requirements are needed.
Consult the operator's manual for the break-in period. John Deere Break-in Oil has a 100 hour maximum drain interval.
#17
Senior Member
Where can I find information on Mobil 1 not being what it used to be? I do not doubt it but I would like to see it. The reason I like Mobile 1 is it is a good synhtetic trusted by many and widely available. I know there are many Synthetic Johnny come lately oils to the Synh party. This is also why I stick with Mobile 1 I trust it. Not to say Amsoil isn't better I am Sure it is. I do believe Amsoil is the best hands down. But if Amsoil was the same price and available at every Walmart and AutoZone, Oreillys etc I would buy it without question. I would like to see an independent study on full synthetic oils and price so I can decide.
Also there is a part of me that is old school. I just change the oil every 4-5000 max no matter what oil I use because that is just the way we roll and do not trust any oil past a certain time or milage. I have been changing my oil since 1981. I do not want to spend 10.00 a quart on Amsoil which I know is the best out there if I am going to change it at 4,000 anyway. So I think the Mobile 1 is the best compromise. It is a great oil for up to 5,000 miles I do not need any better and for the price someone would have to prove to me which of the Johnny come lately Synths are better than Mobile 1 and closely priced. I mean within $1.00 a quart. Sorry for longwinded post.
Also there is a part of me that is old school. I just change the oil every 4-5000 max no matter what oil I use because that is just the way we roll and do not trust any oil past a certain time or milage. I have been changing my oil since 1981. I do not want to spend 10.00 a quart on Amsoil which I know is the best out there if I am going to change it at 4,000 anyway. So I think the Mobile 1 is the best compromise. It is a great oil for up to 5,000 miles I do not need any better and for the price someone would have to prove to me which of the Johnny come lately Synths are better than Mobile 1 and closely priced. I mean within $1.00 a quart. Sorry for longwinded post.
Last edited by HankHill; 04-29-2011 at 10:29 PM.
#18
Senior almost
Ford doesn't use break in oil. John Deere still does. Years ago it was non-detergent oil. It's funny how different companies have different ideas about what is best.
John Deere Break-In Oil
from John Deere product support
Background
The first 100 hours of operation are critical to the life and performance of an engine. During the first hours of operation, the rings and liners must seat (establish a pattern) for proper performance. If this does not occur, the life of the engine can be adversely affected.
John Deere Engine Break-In Oil (part number TY22057) is a special-blend oil developed to be used in rebuilt or remanufactured engines and new John Deere engines during the break-in period.
This unique oil is formulated with special additives to allow the power cylinder components (pistons and liners) to "wear-in" while protecting other engine components (valve train and gears) from abnormal wear. These additives control piston and liner seating without scuffing. This oil also provides excellent piston deposit control. As a result, piston rings and liners establish a good wear pattern for maximum performance and extended engine life.
High-quality premium engine oils should not be used as a break-in oil. The superior anti-wear characteristics of premium oils will inhibit the proper matching of components which could result in excessive oil consumption.
John Deere Break-In Oil is an excellent oil for new or rebuilt non-John Deere engines. Engine rebuild instructions should be consulted to determine if special requirements are needed.
Consult the operator's manual for the break-in period. John Deere Break-in Oil has a 100 hour maximum drain interval.
John Deere Break-In Oil
from John Deere product support
Related Pages
Service tips
Service tips
Background
The first 100 hours of operation are critical to the life and performance of an engine. During the first hours of operation, the rings and liners must seat (establish a pattern) for proper performance. If this does not occur, the life of the engine can be adversely affected.
John Deere Engine Break-In Oil (part number TY22057) is a special-blend oil developed to be used in rebuilt or remanufactured engines and new John Deere engines during the break-in period.
This unique oil is formulated with special additives to allow the power cylinder components (pistons and liners) to "wear-in" while protecting other engine components (valve train and gears) from abnormal wear. These additives control piston and liner seating without scuffing. This oil also provides excellent piston deposit control. As a result, piston rings and liners establish a good wear pattern for maximum performance and extended engine life.
High-quality premium engine oils should not be used as a break-in oil. The superior anti-wear characteristics of premium oils will inhibit the proper matching of components which could result in excessive oil consumption.
John Deere Break-In Oil is an excellent oil for new or rebuilt non-John Deere engines. Engine rebuild instructions should be consulted to determine if special requirements are needed.
Consult the operator's manual for the break-in period. John Deere Break-in Oil has a 100 hour maximum drain interval.
#19
Senior Member
For the most part I believe everything you stated. I used to be a mechanic for about ten years back in the eighties. I used to biuld the smaller Wisconsin Engines for Bobcats and things like that. The assembly lube I used is lithium based white looking stuff.
My take on the Factory warranty is this... Yes their oil is adequate and will make 100,00 but there is always compromises like if a better quality oil is used it will still last even longer. Even a multi weight oil is a compromise between, usually fuel milage and temperature. If one was not worried about fuel milage you would be better serverd by using a straight weighted oil. They are far more stable. Of course if you live in a cold climate you would probably do something like run 20 weight in the winter and a straight 30 in the summer. Down here in Texas we can get by on straight 30 weight all year long. We rarely see extended time below 20 degrees.
This is why an air cooled engine should only run a straight weighted oil because of the heat they create, they need the most stable oil which is a straight weight. Also it will break down due to heat so the change interval is more often reccomended. Usually between 20 and 100 hours. depending on the application, dust etc. But again what I mean is the factory oil and process will get you to 100,00 but there are ways to even extend longer like better oils, change intervals and even the so called additives to reduce friction. I do not beleive they are needed but the manual will say friction modifiers are not needed. They are correct they are not needed, but if they are introduced even less wear and tear can be expected which can increase engine life 2 to 3 times normal. The reason I would not use friction modifiers is because they stand a chance of gumming up rings etc. It is impossible to know how they work in every engine/application. I have seen what the old STP used to do. It would carbon up and stick rings.
My take on the Factory warranty is this... Yes their oil is adequate and will make 100,00 but there is always compromises like if a better quality oil is used it will still last even longer. Even a multi weight oil is a compromise between, usually fuel milage and temperature. If one was not worried about fuel milage you would be better serverd by using a straight weighted oil. They are far more stable. Of course if you live in a cold climate you would probably do something like run 20 weight in the winter and a straight 30 in the summer. Down here in Texas we can get by on straight 30 weight all year long. We rarely see extended time below 20 degrees.
This is why an air cooled engine should only run a straight weighted oil because of the heat they create, they need the most stable oil which is a straight weight. Also it will break down due to heat so the change interval is more often reccomended. Usually between 20 and 100 hours. depending on the application, dust etc. But again what I mean is the factory oil and process will get you to 100,00 but there are ways to even extend longer like better oils, change intervals and even the so called additives to reduce friction. I do not beleive they are needed but the manual will say friction modifiers are not needed. They are correct they are not needed, but if they are introduced even less wear and tear can be expected which can increase engine life 2 to 3 times normal. The reason I would not use friction modifiers is because they stand a chance of gumming up rings etc. It is impossible to know how they work in every engine/application. I have seen what the old STP used to do. It would carbon up and stick rings.
Last edited by HankHill; 04-29-2011 at 11:14 PM.
#20
Amsoil OE Synthetic 5w20 is $3.99/qt by the case today. On May 1, it increases to $4.15/quart by the case. Drain interval is OE recommendation. If you want to buy it at that price, PM me and I will tell you how to get set up. The OE Synthetic is equivalent to Mobil 1.
Last edited by Kristang; 04-29-2011 at 11:43 PM.