TylerB

Just for the record. The 4 different dealers I have been to have not suggested 4k mile oil changes. They are in the business of selling cars and servicing cars. So yeah, to them, they want you to change your oil sooner rather than later. It's a business scheme. They will not void your warranty if you go 5000-7500 miles with proper records or documentation.

Ben the Isäntä

I said 5k miles. We told everyone that came in, 5k..

OddBall

I'd have to agree. Why test the oil if you don't trust the results? Unless you're in the severe category for usage, never change your air filter, etc...change it as per manufacturer guidelines.

They can't deny a claim during the warranty period if you follow the manual to the letter.

And don't deviate from what Ford states unless you're living about an hour south of the arctic circle. A 5W-30 as recommended by Ford will work fine.

Don't believe me? Here's the specs on Motorcraft 5W30

SAE Grade 5W-30
API Service GF-5/SN
Specific Gravity @ 60°F (15.6°C) 0.860
Density, lb/gal 7.17
Flash Point, COC, °C (°F) 206 (402)
Viscosity:
cSt @ 100°C 10.8
cSt @ 40°C 65
cP @ -30°C 6,300
Viscosity Index 163
Pour Point, °C (°F) <-42 (<-44)

That last number, pour point, shows it's rated to pour down to 44 below zero F

kinkaid

Yikes. Is that the one formulated for Diesel. Please don't use it in a gasoline engine. the detergents are designed to remove soot. Same with Mobil Delvac or others. They all have slightly different detergents designed for diesels. I know many of them are dual rated, but I rather stick with one made for a gas engine.

To add my 2 cents. I work in the oil industry. I spent several years in the lubricants division. During my time, we ran all the brands of oil to compare how ours performed against the competitors. we ran the following engines and cars:

a few 2003 Mustang Corbras with the 4.6 L supercharged V8.
a few 2003 Chevy Avalanche with the 5.3 V8
a few 2003 BMW 330i's with the 3.0 I6

Basically all the Synthetics And Dino performed with in 2-3% of each other in all tests. We did notice that the "pure" non-engineered Dino oils began to show sign of breakdown and decrease in performance after ~3800 miles in both the BMW and the Mustang. We did not run any of the oil change intervals longer than 5500 miles.

The absolute best performer was Red-line.
but it was only ~1% better than Pennzoil Full Synthetic, Mobil 1, or Quaker State Full Synthetic. Of course these engines were not raced to redline for hours on end like those stupid castrol commercials. Our simulations worked like one would in extreme conditions. Our daily drivers just drove around Houston for 1.5 years. (we covered 2 summers). Best advice is to do what the manufacturer recommends on change intervals. I think Ford Filters are a must, they look like they are better designed than the aftermarket ones. But if you change your oil at 3000-3500, then if should not matter. Buy a good brand name oil. Unless you are in extreme conditions like racing then you are fine with any of the major. I don't think you need to go Red-line, Royal Purple, or Amsoil.

My father's 1981 Corolla went 279K before it was traded in 1997. He never used anything except plain old Pennzoil 10w-30.
His 1976 Olds went 115K before it was traded in in 1989!

I never keep a car too much past 100K miles, but I know my previous 4 cars/trucks are still on the road today. (I gave them to family members). They all have between 110K-175K miles on them. After the first oil change, I Always used Pennzoil or Mobil 1 Synthetic. (which ever was cheaper in the 5 Qt jugs at wally world)

panthercity

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kinkaid, the 330i was NOT a V-6.

Kristang

Like Kinkaid, I also work in the oil industry, have done so for 15 years. I am young enough to appreciate new technology but not old enough to be stuck on the old technology!

I would like to give my $.02 on this topic because I see some misconceptions being voiced here. Though a lot of the information on this topic can be fact, most is given by impressions from experience (real life) and "if it's on the internet, it must be true" (maybe true, maybe not so true).

My area of expertise is in synthetic lubricants. I have done many hours of dyno testing on high performance engines, and hundred of thousands of miles of testing using real world driving, not simulated.

I use a specific brand of synthetic motor oil. I am not going to turn this into an advertisement for them because that is not my intent. My real world experience and testing has consisted of their product only because I have had no reason do deviate. I only need to see oil analysis and hear of other peoples experiences (reliable) with other oils to realize what I use is more than sufficient against those other brands and eclipses most in performance. Because this is my JOB, I get too see lots of information.

With today's engine technology in combination with the oil technology we have, the 3000 mile oil change is not only unnecessary, but it is irresponsible. I currently drive a 2011 F-150 with a 5.0. Ford's recommended interval is 10,000 miles utilizing their 5w20 synthetic blend. The Motorcraft Syn-Blend is a very good oil. It can compete or be slightly better that many of the labeled full-synthetic motor oils that are available. Their motor oil is very good, on the flip side, their 75w140 gear oil is adequate at best.

Oil color is NOT a good indicator of oil condition. All motor oils have a dye in them. Some dyes will get darker within the first few heat cycles! The oil I use is still transparent after 15,000 miles! Perhaps a marketing ploy for those of you who think if the oil is dark, it's bad? Oil analysis is the BEST way to check your oil's condition. Analysis does not lie.

The eco-boost makes a LOT more heat than the 5.0. I can venture to guess that is why Ford recommends 5w30 in the turbo motor. 5w30 is much more "sheer stable" than 5w20, which means it will do a much better job in preventing metal to metal contact. I don't like 5w20's unless it is in a full synthetic package. Mobil 1 does not cut it, however, the Mobil Extended performance is a better option for you big oil company supporters. I prefer to use 0w20 in my 5.0. I currently have 60K on my truck. I have done 4 oil changes at 15k intervals. Oil analysis has shown on each occasion that I did not yet need to make the change but I am comfortable there, and 15k is a good number for me to remember. In 15K, I have to add 1 quart between changes which is more than acceptable.

What about warranty? I get asked this all the time. My last truck, a 2008 F150 with the 5.4, blew up at 80K. I lost an oil seal in my chain tensioner on the drivers side cylinder head. When they tore the engine down, they could not believe how clean the engine was, minus all the shrapnel. This engine was also given 15K oil changes. I had record of each change, warranty was honored, I received a new engine, no questions asked, though I shared what I was using for motor oil.

I had a 1995 F150 with a 351W, which was purchased by my father brand new, sold to me, sold back to him, and then sold to my cousin, who is currently still driving it. It has been painted 3 times. It has had a new radiator, water pump, alternator, starter, rebuilt front end, and a heater core. Engine, transmission, and rear end are still original. It currently has over 400K on it, with the engine oil being changed every 20K, transmission has been flushed 4 times, gear oil has been changed 2 times. It uses one quart of oil between changes to this day!!!!

kinkaid

Sorry I-6 Should have just put 6 Cylinder.. so used to writing V#

panthercity

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