Ecoboost Rx Dual Valve Catch Can Install - No Drilling
#41
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just a quick bit of information to share:
I have been working with multiple Tuners and Ford mechanics and our findings have been very consistent with the no drilling solution to WOT evacuation. The system works like it should and the biggest difference we are seeing is that when you drill the passenger side is that you scavenge a bit more vapor mist.
The intake tract and system remains clean running the UPR no drill solution on the driver side and the trucks runs smooth and improves gas mileage. The is the main reason UPR chose to run the UPR Dual Valve Catch Can with the no drill solution is because of warranty and no headaches. Dealers are now looking for clean and fresh installed air intake components such as the passenger side intake pipe or air box lid being swapped out.
You will see the same or better overall MPG increases and the vacuum and additional ring seal from the increased evacuation vacuum will only promote a much better break in. Please keep sharing Phantom. Nice work.
I have been working with multiple Tuners and Ford mechanics and our findings have been very consistent with the no drilling solution to WOT evacuation. The system works like it should and the biggest difference we are seeing is that when you drill the passenger side is that you scavenge a bit more vapor mist.
The intake tract and system remains clean running the UPR no drill solution on the driver side and the trucks runs smooth and improves gas mileage. The is the main reason UPR chose to run the UPR Dual Valve Catch Can with the no drill solution is because of warranty and no headaches. Dealers are now looking for clean and fresh installed air intake components such as the passenger side intake pipe or air box lid being swapped out.
You will see the same or better overall MPG increases and the vacuum and additional ring seal from the increased evacuation vacuum will only promote a much better break in. Please keep sharing Phantom. Nice work.
My dealer has already said no issues with me drilling into the airbox for the clean side separator fresh air source. I think it comes down to how much of a car/truck enthusiast they are versus just a management figure head. I still don't agree with the whole no-drill philosophy, scavenging vacuum by T-ing the fresh air source into the driver side vacuum source rather than just going ahead and drilling the air box. Anybody can see this doesn't create any issues that would result in damaging any engine components. But, after my last empty, I'm feeling better about just needing the single vacuum source for the can to operate effectively. IM line was dry, and I know I've stopped the turbo/CAC issue. Fuel smell in the oil is gone also. So, it seems to be doing what it's supposed to be.
#42
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^^^^^
Phantomblackgto
As you know I did my installation the same as you did by not drilling the right side turbo inlet pipe. I'm glad to hear some more results on this set-up. Sounds like it is working good since you’re not seeing evidence of oil residue in your IM line and gunk in your CAC.
I ordered the OEM fittings you recommended from Tasco and received them a few days ago. I also received my C.S. separator from RX yesterday. I decided to go ahead and install the new components last night. The new OEM connectors worked out great and made for a clean looking factory install...my goal. The C.S. appears to be high quality with a very good fit / seal.
So now I'm ready to log some more miles. I want to put on 500 miles before draining the can.
Phantomblackgto
As you know I did my installation the same as you did by not drilling the right side turbo inlet pipe. I'm glad to hear some more results on this set-up. Sounds like it is working good since you’re not seeing evidence of oil residue in your IM line and gunk in your CAC.
I ordered the OEM fittings you recommended from Tasco and received them a few days ago. I also received my C.S. separator from RX yesterday. I decided to go ahead and install the new components last night. The new OEM connectors worked out great and made for a clean looking factory install...my goal. The C.S. appears to be high quality with a very good fit / seal.
So now I'm ready to log some more miles. I want to put on 500 miles before draining the can.
#43
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#44
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Makes since. I had no problem using the straight and I only ordered one hose assembly. I may order another because I still need to do the IM. Then I have a spare 90.
#46
Adapt 1/2 inch ID pcv hose to 5/8" ID at engine. I used 5/8" system.
#47
Senior Member
Thread Starter
This will give you 2 straight connectors and 2 90* connectors. You do have to cut off the stock lines from the connectors as mentioned earlier in this thread. You can also buy just the connectors from UPR or any of their vendors, but they are $9.95 each I believe. You need a total of 3. Stock is 2 straight and 1 90*, but I changed the driver side barb from a straight to a 90*, so I used 1 straight and 2 90*'s.
Last edited by phantomblackgto; 11-24-2014 at 11:29 AM.
#48
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just as an update, it's gotten a lot colder recently and the Rx can caught 14 oz in just a little over 500 miles on my last drain. I'm still just using the driver side barb for vacuum under boost and it seems to be working pretty well. Would be interested to see what others are capturing. It's been in the 20's here and as cold as 5*F one morning.
#49
Just as an update, it's gotten a lot colder recently and the Rx can caught 14 oz in just a little over 500 miles on my last drain. I'm still just using the driver side barb for vacuum under boost and it seems to be working pretty well. Would be interested to see what others are capturing. It's been in the 20's here and as cold as 5*F one morning.