Rdavis9101

No problem. Also have upgraded to 410 rearend, dual check valve catch can, rx Clean side separator! Just crazy stuff, thought about the meth inj. thanks!

BRUTE448

dayym! with all of that and you still have any over heating issue!!?!!!! you have basically all the mechanical and bolt on mods to run cool as can be!!

this would only lead me to believe its something else, as with all ^^^ that you should have no problems!

robertsunrus

Hi, 245 degrees was not very hot for 20 years ago standards. As a new car dealer mechanic since 1968, [retired in 2008] I have been mostly a Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury mechanic. But while I was a Chevrolet mechanic, I was sent to the factory school on cooling systems. As a note: GM over heat warning lights came on at 262 degrees. these were in the late 60's and early 70's. [way more than 20 years ago]


Now here is how it works; Water boils at 212 degrees. You can add 3 degrees for each pound of pressure of the cap/system. Most vehicles have a 15 pound cap so you can add 45 degrees to the 212 boiling point. Now you are up to 257 degrees. Now with a 15 lb. pressure cap and a proper 50/50 mix of coolant, you can add another 30 degrees to the equation. Now you are up to 287 degrees. Until you vehicle starts puking coolant onto the street, you technically are not over heating.




The importance of this class was to educate the mechanics that if you have a bad radiator cap, or you only have water [no coolant] in the system, your engine could puke the contents of your radiator into the street and the 262 degree warning light will never come on because you need the proper pressure and proper mix of coolant to get past 262 degrees.


If your truck is not puking, it's not over heating. Also your truck is protected to shut down before damage if the computer determines it's running too hot.




So you're safe to about 290 degrees.

mhamershock

I call BS. Mine never puked coolant, and I warped both exhaust manifolds due to heat build up. Coolant isn't the only thing at risk when these things get hot. It's a small package with a lot of power and when it can't shed heat things stress.

I don't tow in CA heat anymore, nor tow as many miles as I used to so I don't see the issue now. 107k miles on it and still running good, although I was damn glad I had a 100k mile warranty. It was worth every penny.

Mike

robertsunrus

Hi, Mike call BS all you want to. Do a search on cooling systems and find out how it works for your self. Many vehicles have had exhaust manifolds warp and crack, but that is not engine overheating. Rich fuel, restricted exhaust systems, modified systems, Overloaded / over worked with too heavy a trailer on a long steep grade, chips, and many more things can cause you exhaust manifolds to warp and crack.

Tachdriver

I read this topic and did not see it mentioned but in addition to the weight your trailer has a frontal area similar to a brick.

I tow my travel trailer at 6,500 lbs but the size can mimic a bill board. If only I could sell advertising.

I cannot tell you want my coolant temp is but with my scan gauge I will start to monitor it after reading this post.

joedotmac

Warping exhaust manifolds is not a result of high coolant temperatures. What was stated on the fundamentals of boiling point on pressure and coolant increasing boiling point is industry knowledge. Your welcome to an opinion, but not a set of facts that doesn't align with actual physics and science.

The sole source for heat in an engine is combustion.

Exhaust manifolds are subject to cylinder temperatures which are anywhere from 800 to 1500 degrees in light driving circumstances. WOT with a forced induction application can have temperatures easily at 2500 or greater. Lean fuel ratios can drive cylinder temperatures higher yet over nominal. Warped exhaust manifolds are caused because of gasket failure and or temperatures that well exceed nominal conditions. Warped exhaust manifolds are not caused as a result of high coolant temperatures.

Prosail1

Just signed up and read the whole thread so far. I have a 14 Lariat SuperCrew 4x4 EB. Last July I bought it with around 40,000 miles. I traded in an 07 SC 4x4 with the 5.4 and 260,000 miles. Since the 07 was new, I towed a 9,000 lb 32' 5th wheel. All up it was probably closer to 10,000 lbs....with a 17-1/2' Zodiac (military inflatable) boat behind it, maybe closer to 11,000lbs. Before anyone hijacks this thread with your advice about that, save it, that's not the subject. I got 230,000 miles out of the transmission towing that 5th wheel all over the country, even through the Rockies and all over the Southwest. Motor never ran hot. The gauge never moved.
Now to the 14 EB. First noticed the heating problem going out of Phx up to Lake Powell towing my 28 foot boat that's probably around 6,000 lbs. Heated up quickly but dropped quickly when I got to the top. However, the a/c kicked off. But returned upon the gauge going down. Then in October, I towed that 5th wheel PLUS my UTV on a 13' trailer (around 2300 added pounds) to Utah to go deer hunting. The EB tows like a beast but the overheating is a huge concern. It only does in on long, steep hills like going north out of Phx or I-8 east in the mountains out San Diego. If you watch the EB torture test on Youtube, they never mention any of this in their hill climb towing races they did against Chevy and Dodge. I had my thermostat replaced and cooling system flushed and it still does it. Considering the full Race radiator now. But I see it doesn't help much. I'm interested to hear some more details on that.

Prosail1

JLTD

Yep, noticed the same thing. And the thread title is misleading....

OP, you were working your engine as hard as it can work and it got hot. Normal.

IMO, as mentioned previously, stop overthinking it. Though it may have been close, you didn't get into the red nor did you go into any protection mode.

I had some advice from an old guy once: If your coolant temp gets too hot, slow down. Maybe you should try taking those big grades at 50 or even 45mph and see if it makes a difference.


edit:
1) After having a good look at your rig, I'd say you were towing beyond the rated weight, and those larger than stock tires aren't helping; perhaps a 250 is in your future.
2) One post mentioned letting the engine do the work, rather than the turbo...good advice, the turbo generates a LOT of heat. With a tune you get more power...more power means more heat...and running the engine at a higher rpm, less boost, more coolant flow might help.