Ecoboost OVERHEATING while towing--- anyone else?
09-05-2012, 09:21 PM
#61
Originally Posted by snakbitn
Just wondering if the 4'' exhaust would help with this problem.
Robert
Robert
09-05-2012, 09:25 PM
#62
Official Member: Vast RWC
Thread Starter
Some bigger exhaust would definitely help.
So would less timing retard when towing. I'd like a tune with say 10psi max boost and 5* of timing.
When towing I've seen ignition timing actually go ATDC under load. That creates A LOT of heat....
So would less timing retard when towing. I'd like a tune with say 10psi max boost and 5* of timing.
When towing I've seen ignition timing actually go ATDC under load. That creates A LOT of heat....
09-05-2012, 09:38 PM
#63
Senior Member
Originally Posted by gimmie11s
Some bigger exhaust would definitely help.
So would less timing retard when towing. I'd like a tune with say 10psi max boost and 5* of timing.
When towing I've seen ignition timing actually go ATDC under load. That creates A LOT of heat....
So would less timing retard when towing. I'd like a tune with say 10psi max boost and 5* of timing.
When towing I've seen ignition timing actually go ATDC under load. That creates A LOT of heat....
09-06-2012, 12:37 PM
#64
I'm going to try this. I just loaded the 5* 87 PT tune this morning and will run it for a while, even when I tow with 91 octane. Like you say - greater margin of error. I won't pull any big hills until I head to Glen Helen to race in October so don't expect any overheat issues until then. There's nothing else I tow normally that puts enuff strain on the engine to really get it hot.
01-19-2016, 09:44 PM
#65
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So here is my story and I'm sticking to it.
I have a 2011 F150 Platinum EB. I towed my original trailer, (about 5K lbs.) up and down hills 5000 miles from AZ to NV to ID to Wyo to Nev to Calif and back home to AZ. Never had any overheaing issues at all. Traded it off and bought a 2013 trailer that weighs about 7500 -8000 lbs loaded. We took off last year for nearly identical 5 week trip. However, pulling this baby in June when the outside temp was 102 degrees up hill to Flagstaff, my truck started giving me all kinds of flashing, pinging light show. This heat would come on fast and go away just as fast. Did the research and found that this is a, somewhat, common issue. So, before the weather gets to hot, I have been doing some research. I am trying to decide on doing one or all of the following and would like to know if anyone else on the forum has tried any of these to resolve a similar situation?
1. Replace the radiator with a new larger all aluminum high performance replacement. I am told this will make a huge difference and eliminate the over heating issue
2. Replace the inter cooler with a newer bigger cooler
3. Install a magnaflow or another cat back exhaust.
Please give me your story and let me know if you played with any of these solutions
I have a 2011 F150 Platinum EB. I towed my original trailer, (about 5K lbs.) up and down hills 5000 miles from AZ to NV to ID to Wyo to Nev to Calif and back home to AZ. Never had any overheaing issues at all. Traded it off and bought a 2013 trailer that weighs about 7500 -8000 lbs loaded. We took off last year for nearly identical 5 week trip. However, pulling this baby in June when the outside temp was 102 degrees up hill to Flagstaff, my truck started giving me all kinds of flashing, pinging light show. This heat would come on fast and go away just as fast. Did the research and found that this is a, somewhat, common issue. So, before the weather gets to hot, I have been doing some research. I am trying to decide on doing one or all of the following and would like to know if anyone else on the forum has tried any of these to resolve a similar situation?
1. Replace the radiator with a new larger all aluminum high performance replacement. I am told this will make a huge difference and eliminate the over heating issue
2. Replace the inter cooler with a newer bigger cooler
3. Install a magnaflow or another cat back exhaust.
Please give me your story and let me know if you played with any of these solutions
01-20-2016, 05:06 PM
#66
Do you happen to know what the offending source was for your over heating? Was it the tranny or engine?
Regarding the bigger CAC. I'm no way an expert there but I always wonder how a bigger unit would affect the rad behind it?
Regarding the bigger CAC. I'm no way an expert there but I always wonder how a bigger unit would affect the rad behind it?
01-20-2016, 07:44 PM
#67
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Well yes and no
I think it is the extra weight of the trailer. Probably close to 8K lbs. Probably the temperature in AZ. 110 to 112 in June is common. Even when you climb out of the desert up into the mountains it can be over 100.
My tranny got up to about 220 to 224
My engine temp gauge would go from normal to High in about 5 seconds. I did learn to manually down shift to help balance the load between the turbo and the engine doing the work.
Since posting I found a company here in AZ that makes the Freako boost replacemtn radiator. I am going to think about replacing my regular radiator. These guys think it will fix the problem.
I think it is the extra weight of the trailer. Probably close to 8K lbs. Probably the temperature in AZ. 110 to 112 in June is common. Even when you climb out of the desert up into the mountains it can be over 100.
My tranny got up to about 220 to 224
My engine temp gauge would go from normal to High in about 5 seconds. I did learn to manually down shift to help balance the load between the turbo and the engine doing the work.
Since posting I found a company here in AZ that makes the Freako boost replacemtn radiator. I am going to think about replacing my regular radiator. These guys think it will fix the problem.
01-20-2016, 07:55 PM
#68
FYI, the stock temp gauge is only slightly better than an idiot light. That temp needle WILL NOT move until you get very close to overheating. I run a scangauge on mine, and that needle stays in same position to 228°, I can verify that for sure (that's when I dropped back to 45mph while pulling an 8% grade with 102° outside temp).
I never got to the limp mode, but I'm sure I was close.
I would start with the bigger rad. But, saying that, I've been kicking around the idea of a better intercooler (stock position) to see if it helps the problem by letting the engine have more timing. As mentioned above, lower timing causes more heat.
I do have a catback, but not turboback setup. And I'm pulling right at 10k with my travel trailer.
I HIGHLY suggest getting a scangauge or something similar to watch your boost, timing, water temp, etc. Love mine.
I never got to the limp mode, but I'm sure I was close.
I would start with the bigger rad. But, saying that, I've been kicking around the idea of a better intercooler (stock position) to see if it helps the problem by letting the engine have more timing. As mentioned above, lower timing causes more heat.
I do have a catback, but not turboback setup. And I'm pulling right at 10k with my travel trailer.
I HIGHLY suggest getting a scangauge or something similar to watch your boost, timing, water temp, etc. Love mine.
01-23-2016, 01:19 AM
#69
The main thing I've noticed to keep twmos down is to downshift before you are pulling high boost numbers. I have a 5* 91 tow tune & have no issues as long as I keep my rpms up on grades. Especially if you tow with cruise control evwn in tow/haul mode the transmission will hold the gear too long & make the engine pull higher boost at a lower rpm & cause the temps to rise. When I'm pulling heavy uphill I noticed if you run at 4k rpm you will run much cooler than at 3k...