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Ecoboost downpipe install- difficulty?

Old 08-17-2014, 11:54 AM
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Default Ecoboost downpipe install- difficulty?

2011 stock EB, thinking of adding off road downpipes and have a few questions.

I have heard the off road pipes can smell bad, increased exhaust smell, any truth to this?

Difficulty of install? I'd like to try and keep the stock system whole in case I need to return it to stock, not interested in cutting it all apart. I have a decent amount of hand tools, 2 jacks, no access to a lift, would be doing this by myself. I enjoy wrenching in things myself, or is it just worth it to pay an exhaust shop to do it? Any idea on how much they would charge?

Aluminized pipes vs. SS, I understand the difference. I live in SW Va, not a lot of salt here. If I had a brand new set of aluminized and painted them with high temp paint, would this help slow the rust process?

I understand the issues of state inspection and O2 sensor codes.

If anyone has a used set for sale, shoot me a PM.
Old 08-17-2014, 03:10 PM
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Yes it is going to smell. I had off road pipes on my mustang and it smell like an old 1970 car. The bad thing is the smell also sticks to you and end up smelling like exhaust. Which i like but many others do not.
Old 08-17-2014, 07:58 PM
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I had the same problem with mine. Ended up taking my truck to an exhaust shop and found out that the studs on the turbos are a little short and the flange from the down pipes were cut too thick leaving not enough threads on the studs to get a proper seal. What the shop guy ended up doing is getting was he get the nuts on as snug as he could and then thru on a tack weld to hold them in place. So far it has worked, haven't notice any exhaust smalls.
Old 08-17-2014, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by blackbeast
I had the same problem with mine. Ended up taking my truck to an exhaust shop and found out that the studs on the turbos are a little short and the flange from the down pipes were cut too thick leaving not enough threads on the studs to get a proper seal. What the shop guy ended up doing is getting was he get the nuts on as snug as he could and then thru on a tack weld to hold them in place. So far it has worked, haven't notice any exhaust smalls.
How was the rest of the work? Any special tools or tool recommendations? Time?
Old 08-17-2014, 09:26 PM
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Not difficult, just a lot of wrenching. Hardest part was reaching the nuts on the turbos. Extensions will be needed. Also, be sure to support your transmission when you take off the the cross member.

I also agree that the turbo studs were a little short, but I managed to get at least 4 threads pass the nut. I wouldn't recommend tacking them though. The carbon build up from the exhaust will over time block small leaks.

WEAR GLOVES. I cut my finger so bad on the sharp *** heat shield.
Old 08-17-2014, 09:34 PM
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Do you guys feel like the exhaust smells bad/noticeable?
Old 08-18-2014, 10:52 AM
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took me and a buddy 8hrs in my garage to do this. using only jack stands and hand tools, no air tools. Personally, if I were to do it over I'd take it somewhere and have them do it. Had to buy extensions and those flexible knuckle thingys to get at the turbos. had trouble with the bar that goes across the frame.

edit: We installed the catted version. But yes, my experience with catless mustangs is they do smell bad...but hey, they aren't DD's.
Old 08-18-2014, 01:29 PM
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Easy install took maybe 2 1/2 hours by myself. Just get plenty of extensions and swivel socket. I installed the AFE catted downpipe which is 3" to 3.5" so it as even less room.
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Old 08-18-2014, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Brad2013FX4
Easy install took maybe 2 1/2 hours by myself. Just get plenty of extensions and swivel socket. I installed the AFE catted downpipe which is 3" to 3.5" so it as even less room.
Any appreciable difference in power and sound post install?

Going to keep the rest of the exhaust stock, just want more turbo whistle with some quicker response.
Old 08-18-2014, 07:08 PM
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Maybe a little difference in power I did the downpipe and cat-back at the sametime.



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