engineermike

So, are you saying that the wideband sensor in the exhaust system is only measuring the o2 of the portion of gas combusted at stoichiometric, and not the composite o2 of all the gas leaving the cylinder? I think not. If it were really a lean-burn engine, then all that excess air in the cylinder would be pumped into the exhaust, and show up lean on the wideband.

Again, Im familiar with how lean-burn works. But the wideband in the exhaust stream would pick it up. There is a reason that lean-burn engines must run a wideband.

engineermike

Measured, and mine does like yours save WOT and DFCO.

FST150

My 2007 roushcharged f150 had an AEM wideband digital gauge, at idle and at cruise on the highway mine stayed the same as that usually around 14.3-14.7, I know this isn't the same truck but just for reference

maplelakeduckslayer

I had luck getting rid of most of the miss in my truck by buying new OEM plugs and gapping to .032. But the truck still seems to lack a lot of power and still seems to hesitate sometimes. I want to put in a different plug and gap at .030. Would people recommend the '13 plugs? Something else? Anybody have experience with the Pulstar's? They are like $15 a pop though In conjunction with wanting to replace the plugs again, I have been running 92/93 octane and will be doing so for a month or two after putting plugs in to see how the truck performs.

Riccochet

New plugs and premium gas has my truck running a bit better. Still lacking on power though.

byoungblood

Pulstars are a gimmick and do not belong in ANY automotive engine. Same with SplitFires, the multi-electrode Bosch plugs (though there are legit multi electrode plugs out there for specific applications, such as aircraft), and those plugs with the square ended electrodes.

I've only loosely been following this thread, so is there a major difference in the 2013 plugs?

SkiSmuggs

Ford changed from SP528 to SP534 for the 2013, but I don't know the difference.

13'TwinScrew

You may want to look up some of the issues with the pulstars. In the early run of them people had issues with them breaking off and being extremely difficult to remove them...I personally wouldn't consider them as an option.

EDIT: The newer plugs might be better made, dunno.

VoiceOfReason

NGK and Denso are pretty the best plugs you're going to get without getting into proprietary designs and ridiculous costs.

If you have had all of the TSB's performed (ie: new CAC, latest calibrations, no CEL's, ignition system checked), get yourself a set of fresh plugs, preferably factory gapped at .035"- .040" (.9 - 1.0mm) and install them. VERY SPARINGLY and carefully apply antiseize to the threads nearest the ground strap, and wipe excess off with paper towel (there should be a very minimal amount within the threads, and only for 3 or 4 threads deep.)

Remember the installation torque is very light. If you have a small enough torque wrench, use it. Set it to 10 lbs /ft, install the plugs. The plugs should be snug but not tight so you may have to tweak the wrench after it clicks.

Very small amount of dielectric grease inside the boots.

Rockhopper

Wasn't this was the original Ford spec from 2011? I believe they have revised this to .030"- .033". It has been posted in this thread (and other threads) several times that people were getting better results with the narrower gaps.

EDIT: here is a quote from earlier in this thread...