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Bleeding air out of coolant system

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Old 03-26-2015, 11:21 PM
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Default Bleeding air out of coolant system

After much frustration, I've finally got to the bottom of was making the annoying whining noise at idle on my 5.0. Apparently after the Hixson Ford in Alexandria LA (sucks!!) Changed my short block, They didn't bleed out the air in coolant system. Marler Ford (thumbs up) in dry prong LA discovered that this remaining air was causing the excessive whine at idle. They cracked the line and the noise stopped. The foreman said I may need to open the fill cap under pressure slowly because the noise would probably return. Sure enough.....so every time the noise starts back up I crack the lid and it stops or the noise gets quieter. So does anyone know of a better way to try and get the rest of the dang air out? Thanks in advance
Old 03-27-2015, 08:37 AM
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Marler Ford didn't do it for you ??
Old 03-27-2015, 08:40 AM
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The work has a warranty. Require the dealer to empty your system and refill it properly.
Old 03-27-2015, 12:38 PM
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They said to bring it back if the noise occurred again but it's a far drive.I'd rather do it myself. Does anyone know how to bleed these trucks?
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Abraham5G (10-06-2020)
Old 03-27-2015, 03:17 PM
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la_leo ... Does anyone know how to bleed these trucks?
Excerpted from the service manual .....
Attached Thumbnails Bleeding air out of coolant system-coolant-fill-bleed.jpg  
Old 03-27-2015, 04:50 PM
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Don't know if it works with these newer platforms but when I worked at the dealer we had issues with air in the system creating a bubbling or gurgling or waterfall type noise inside the dash (think heater core) and the resolution for removing the air was to park as high nose up as possible, start the engine, make sure to keep eyes on the degas bottle for drops in level.

Run the engine like this (nose high) until the engine reached operating temp and increase engine speed to at least 2000 rpm's, top off degas bottle and allow the truck to cool down completely.

Restart and top off bottle and allow system to come back to operating temp, top off as needed.

Most of the time one cycle did the trick but there have been a few that were just plain stubborn (for lack of a better word) and it took more than 1-2 heating/cooling cycles.

The most important thing to keep in mind is keeping the truck nose high.
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Rnlcomp
Don't know if it works with these newer platforms but when I worked at the dealer we had issues with air in the system creating a bubbling or gurgling or waterfall type noise inside the dash (think heater core) and the resolution for removing the air was to park as high nose up as possible, start the engine, make sure to keep eyes on the degas bottle for drops in level.

Run the engine like this (nose high) until the engine reached operating temp and increase engine speed to at least 2000 rpm's, top off degas bottle and allow the truck to cool down completely.

Restart and top off bottle and allow system to come back to operating temp, top off as needed.

Most of the time one cycle did the trick but there have been a few that were just plain stubborn (for lack of a better word) and it took more than 1-2 heating/cooling cycles.

The most important thing to keep in mind is keeping the truck nose high.
Yes follow this method of doing it. I've done it this way on countless vehicles and works everytime.
Old 03-27-2015, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Rnlcomp
Don't know if it works with these newer platforms but when I worked at the dealer we had issues with air in the system creating a bubbling or gurgling or waterfall type noise inside the dash (think heater core) and the resolution for removing the air was to park as high nose up as possible, start the engine, make sure to keep eyes on the degas bottle for drops in level.

Run the engine like this (nose high) until the engine reached operating temp and increase engine speed to at least 2000 rpm's, top off degas bottle and allow the truck to cool down completely.

Restart and top off bottle and allow system to come back to operating temp, top off as needed.

Most of the time one cycle did the trick but there have been a few that were just plain stubborn (for lack of a better word) and it took more than 1-2 heating/cooling cycles.

The most important thing to keep in mind is keeping the truck nose high.
i agree with what he say.what we normally do is fill the coolant but keep the cap open turn the engine and leave it to get hot then rev it but not too high to 2-2.5k RPM for few sec then keep it idle for a min then do it again .
Old 03-29-2015, 07:43 PM
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I use a Lisle funnel that allows you to watch it bubble while you are burping it.


Not used it on my F150 but have had success on other vehicles.
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Old 01-05-2020, 02:07 PM
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THANK YOU !!! RLXXI
I found my new 1995 5.8 at an estate sale & it came with a gurgling sound already. I changed the coolant following the factory manual procedure and the gurgling waterfall sound persisted. I found your post and followed your directions-it took me two times BUT SHAZAM!!! , just like magic, your instructions worked.

Thank you very much.

Last edited by vegas95; 01-05-2020 at 02:10 PM.


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