papa tiger

Believe fuel gets to crankcase on early spray of fuel then compression cycle sprays more much the same as diesel fuel gets in crankcase with blow by too. Fuel doesnt spray once like port injection and vapor with the air same way.

Ford850

I thought I'd add a post to keep this thread alive since it is taking me awhile to get enough miles on the truck for valid results. Now that spring weather is finally arriving, I haven't been putting as many miles on it since I'm busy. But I have around 600 miles on the test set up so far. I emptied the cans recently and recorded the volumes to date. I'd like to wait until I get to 1000 miles before posting the results from the test, but I'll give some preliminary feedback.

- Emptying process -
First the UPR. I'm used to emptying the UPR can regularly, so it's not a big deal to unscrew, guide the can out from between the hoses, pour it out, guide it back in between the hoses, get it lined up carefully (so I don't cross thread the soft aluminum) and screw it back up snug. All that takes less than a few minutes so it's rather easy.
Now the RX can. Raise the hood, hold an empty water bottle under the drain tube, open the valve, close the valve, close the hood. I kid you not, it takes no more time than it took to read those steps. I knew it would be easy to empty, but it is ridiculously easy.

_ The weather so far -
During the first week of the test we had winter weather, with some snow. Since then we have had mild weather. Temperatures are in the 50's and 60's most days.

- What they caught so far -
I won't share the amounts yet, but I'll give some info. The UPR can has caught a 'mostly oil with a bit of water' mixture so far. The RX can (in line after the UPR) has had just the opposite. It's collected mostly water or fuel, with some oil mixed in.
I emptied the UPR first, and I would estimate it has collected the normal amount compared to what it usually does I empty it. I was pleased that my set up with 2 cans didn't seem to change the normal flow and collection I was used to seeing with just the UPR can. When I was about the turn the valve to empty the RX, I paused to a few seconds wondering if anything would come out. After all it was a new can that would need to get some oil/water coated on the inside before there would be enough to drip to the bottom (The UPR can had been in use for many months and although I cleaned the can I did not rinse off the filter material). Plus I wondered if the valve of the RX can protruded up into the can, and if it required some liquid to collect before there was enough to spill over that valve nipple and exit the can. Then I opened the valve and I had to smile when I had some liquid drain out. I thought all along that if it caught more than 10% of what the UPR was collecting, I would be surprised. It's still early in the test, and I would like to redo the test after reversing the order of the cans later, but I am surprised so far. I'm hoping to get more miles on the truck soon so I can wrap up this phase of the test.

mrpositraction

Good stuff! Keep it coming.

papa tiger

So the RX is getting what the UPR isn't trapping and that is mostly H2O + fuel oil mix as advertised. Nice! Is it an equal amount of cc's in each.

jgiddy

Not sure if I missed this, but does your UPR can have the extension on it?

Jrudol1

Subd

Tuner Boost

The RX cans drain does protrude slightly into the bottom so there will be a small amount that will still be in it when drained.

And Yes, the extension does help the UPR & if you have one I strongly recommend adding it. It is an excellent option for increasing the capacity.

The entire goal with a separation system is to catch all the gunk from reaching the intake air charge, and there are hundreds of cans to choose from, but to date, (and we purchase and test and then dissect most every can on the market) the most effective ones come to a total of 4 (and even though the 3 others are direct competitors, our testing shows they also work very well, and they dont pay us to state the results...in fact the # 2 ranked has never to our knowledge acknowledged how well we rank them):

RX
SMC
Elite E2
Apex.

All other to date, even 2 costing over $500, were not effective enough to rank. We only rank those that catch at least 85-90% of the oil/water/fuel/sulfuric acid/etc. gunk that would normally be ingested directly into the intake air charge.

And that is why the ones listed above are excluded in the challenge as they work very well as far as efficiency and I would not hesitate to run any of them on my own vehicles either.

Nice to see independant testing done to confirm what we have shown for years. This test should really be done over several thousand miles, but by 1000 miles on average you will have a good idea.

Also a note, when we test we start with a brand new can so there is no saturation already resent in the media, but the results are dramatic enough usually that by 1000 miles it should be very clear.

jgiddy

One thing I dislike about the UPR: the drain bolt. It's such a PITA that it's faster and easier to just remove the whole thing and pour it out of the can.
Also I had to put like 100ft/lbs of torque on that drain bolt to keep it from leaking. Thought I was going to rip the bolt head off just getting it tight enough. And the drain hole is incapable of removing the last few tablespoons of oil at the bottom of the can.

boost74

Same here, wouldnt mind and in depth instructions from someone who has this installed already.

Ford850

My UPR does not have the extension.