maplelakeduckslayer

As far as if the update takes power away, you can always get it back by getting an aftermarket tune. That's what I had to do on my '11...that or drive a truck with 30% less HP and TQ. Its just that after Ford did the update it was a struggle to even get an aftermarket tune to function correctly in my truck.

makuloco2000

The Ford Hotline engineers didn't even have the information on what exactly changed in the tune, oh well I tried. Someone is just going to have to be the guinea pig here and with the rainy season ahead I am sure I will see my share of customers coming into the dealer wanting the fix.

13'TwinScrew

I may have gained some low end response with it, but it was RICH----real rich. In 200 miles I looked like I was driving a diesel----my rear bumper was saturated by carbon build-up.

MPG dropped big time to like 16.2-16.5 HWY (Prior to the flash I had got about 19-21mpg) on trips up north. The turbos spool faster but it is CONSTANTLY in boost at like 62-65mph.

Tuner Boost

Correct, and we all know that wont happen.

The entire function of a IC (or CAC as Ford refers to it as) is to cool the charge air down to make more power and efficiency. The hotter the air charge, the more it expands, the less room for oxygen molecules and the less power/economy.

I agree with you, all OEM IC's are pretty small and inefficient anyway.

Cure ALL the issues here:

https://www.f150forum.com/f70/ecoboo...23824/index73/

Agreed. Optimized all engines will do better. The Factory tune is always designed to cover all variables in the production process so error on the rich side. Each engine will be slightly different and will benefit from a tune , especially where A/F ratio and timing are logged allowing the tune to be optimized to that specific engine.


PM me if you want to guinea pig and document the solution to all of this. I am assuming your a Ford service tech, correct?

And this will result in even greater intake valve coking....so it is a trade off. Correct it at the source and it all goes away w/out TSB flashes, warm intercoolers, etc.

itguy08

Also curious if anyone has dyno'ed before and after the previous TSBs? Cause the butt meter can lie like a rug.

itguy08

Why would it matter? I get what the narrower gap does but if nothing else the shorter gaps allows you to run them longer before it causes drivability issues.

I changed the plugs on my SHO (which does not have the condensation issue; the cars are not affected) at 71k and the idle smoothed out, she seemed a tad more responsive, had better fuel economy, etc. And it was the same Motorcraft Iridiums gaped at 0.032 from the factory. I think the old ones were .04 and opened up to around .05 or so (I forget exactly; it was a couple weeks ago)

Did the F150 too and the 4.5k RPM miss went away completely.

Tuner Boost

Because the factory would want to keep the gap they determined was best (not always reality as we know).

Here is what we see in the cars.....not as much water in the IC/CAC as it is less effective than the F150's, but plenty of oil ingestion and unburnt fuel and water accumulating in the crankcase as they have the same PCV system that only evacuates at idle and part throttle when no boost is present:







Intake valve coking is more severe then on the F150 as well:

itguy08

Other than looking nasty what exactly does it do? I've got plenty of miles on mine (71,9 something), serviced by the book and it has that residue. Power is fine, idle is smooth as glass, and it runs fine on regular 'old gas.

Any dyno runs before and after to show a real difference in performance? Cause the only ones I've seen were from BG where after 40 runs the best they could do is "gain" 2hp (~.75%) and 4 lb-ft (~1.5%). That's not directed as a slam but an invitation.

So unless you have OCD about a spotless intake or plan to modify it what is it hurting? By the time the car/truck has 150-200k I'm going to be looking at another one anyway as it will most likely be 10-15 years old and will have little other issues cropping up that will drive me nuts. And I'll feel like I got my money's worth.

Wannafbody

I had a 94 Mustang 5.0 and it looked way way worse than that when I removed the intake manifold, it was like a black tar.

itguy08

Bingo! I'd bet every engine has that goop. Except carburated engines or throttle body injected engines as those send fuel/air throughout the intake.