3.5L EcoBoost
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
3.5L EcoBoost
Getting my new truck tomorrow (well, its a 2014, but still newer than my old 2002 :P ) and its got the 3.5L EcoBoost.
I'm just looking for pros and cons of it, as well as mileage (live in Canada so MPG doesn't help me) and any tips on servicing it.
Have an uncle who works for Ford and he said use synthetic oil, with Mobil one being his choice.
This is my first new gen ford so I just want as much info as possible without having to read though a bunch of sites on Google.
I'm just looking for pros and cons of it, as well as mileage (live in Canada so MPG doesn't help me) and any tips on servicing it.
Have an uncle who works for Ford and he said use synthetic oil, with Mobil one being his choice.
This is my first new gen ford so I just want as much info as possible without having to read though a bunch of sites on Google.
#2
Senior Member
Congrats and you'll love it. So far I've had zero issues with mine. I did put a catchcan on it and replaced the CAC with an aftermarket one. Also I have a street perf MPT tune on it that really woke it up. The gas mileage kinda sucks but what do you expect, these trucks are bricks on wheels.
#3
Deffinetly use a good synthetic imo. I use mobil 1 with motorcraft filter. Other then that i drilled the 1/16" weep hole in intercooler 15k km's ago and no shudder problems at all. I had Lots of crap come out others not a drop, wouldnt hurt to do it tho, lots of threads on it. 70k km's and she drives like new. Boss has. 11 eco and hes up to 245k km's zero problems minus usual coil packs and plugs. Theyre good motors if maintained i think most people would agree. I think youl love it
#4
Do some ecoboost problem research and you will be pretty interested. Now that you are stuck with one, here are things to know:
Frequent engine misfire/stutter on acceleration - this is because your intercooler made condensate and it was forced through blowing out spark. Other downstream affects are bad o2 sensors and bad cats. You cannot stop the condensate from forming, but you can drill the 1/16" weep hole to evacuate it from the system.
Spark plugs- use motorcraft sp534 gapped to .030. Need changed every 30k miles.
Carch can - not worth the money. Doesn't really help anything.
Cam phaser rattle on cold start - seeing many fail now. Over time, casting debris and sludge clog oil flow path to the phasers. Lack of oil on cold start causes the cam phasers to rattle and tear themselves up. If they go bad, timing chain fails.
Fuel in oil - watch your oil level and smell it. If it smells like gas, then you have some issues. This is another reason the oil change interval is no more than 5k miles.
Frequent engine misfire/stutter on acceleration - this is because your intercooler made condensate and it was forced through blowing out spark. Other downstream affects are bad o2 sensors and bad cats. You cannot stop the condensate from forming, but you can drill the 1/16" weep hole to evacuate it from the system.
Spark plugs- use motorcraft sp534 gapped to .030. Need changed every 30k miles.
Carch can - not worth the money. Doesn't really help anything.
Cam phaser rattle on cold start - seeing many fail now. Over time, casting debris and sludge clog oil flow path to the phasers. Lack of oil on cold start causes the cam phasers to rattle and tear themselves up. If they go bad, timing chain fails.
Fuel in oil - watch your oil level and smell it. If it smells like gas, then you have some issues. This is another reason the oil change interval is no more than 5k miles.
#5
Senior Member
Do some ecoboost problem research and you will be pretty interested. Now that you are stuck with one, here are things to know:
Frequent engine misfire/stutter on acceleration - this is because your intercooler made condensate and it was forced through blowing out spark. Other downstream affects are bad o2 sensors and bad cats. You cannot stop the condensate from forming, but you can drill the 1/16" weep hole to evacuate it from the system.
Spark plugs- use motorcraft sp534 gapped to .030. Need changed every 30k miles.
Carch can - not worth the money. Doesn't really help anything.
Cam phaser rattle on cold start - seeing many fail now. Over time, casting debris and sludge clog oil flow path to the phasers. Lack of oil on cold start causes the cam phasers to rattle and tear themselves up. If they go bad, timing chain fails.
Fuel in oil - watch your oil level and smell it. If it smells like gas, then you have some issues. This is another reason the oil change interval is no more than 5k miles.
Frequent engine misfire/stutter on acceleration - this is because your intercooler made condensate and it was forced through blowing out spark. Other downstream affects are bad o2 sensors and bad cats. You cannot stop the condensate from forming, but you can drill the 1/16" weep hole to evacuate it from the system.
Spark plugs- use motorcraft sp534 gapped to .030. Need changed every 30k miles.
Carch can - not worth the money. Doesn't really help anything.
Cam phaser rattle on cold start - seeing many fail now. Over time, casting debris and sludge clog oil flow path to the phasers. Lack of oil on cold start causes the cam phasers to rattle and tear themselves up. If they go bad, timing chain fails.
Fuel in oil - watch your oil level and smell it. If it smells like gas, then you have some issues. This is another reason the oil change interval is no more than 5k miles.
#6
King Hater
Lots of reading to do on this forum regarding the ecoboost and its issues. Defiantly drill the hole in your intercooler, even if your not experiencing the shudder issue. It is preventative maintenance.
Make sure you change your plugs every 30k or so with the ford sp534's and gap them at .030
Like said above, pick a quality synthetic oil and change it often. Especially if you are driving short distances.
Make sure you change your plugs every 30k or so with the ford sp534's and gap them at .030
Like said above, pick a quality synthetic oil and change it often. Especially if you are driving short distances.