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My comparison is based on two identical trucks. Identical size, features, tires, gears, weight, suspension, tire pressure, brand of oil, etc.
Perhaps if it's not a result of the turbos, CAC and programming being different it could be the HID lights and the change to the shade of the red paint.
Nothing else I can think of that's different!?
Sounds like you may be low on boost. Could also be heat related if the engine is seeing knock and pulling timing and boost you could definitely feel it.
I can say with my 2011 it would have wild acceleration off the line. Then I had the TSB done for the 6th gear "miss" at about 1500 RPM. Seems to have made the initial tip in a little less wild. BUT it will still go like stink if you get on it, and that is the most important thing! Pass someone and it will drop gears and take off. Hills it will hold 6th and go.
Once you get your adapter and get some numbers it will help immensely. I think the important things to watch would be:
[*]RPM[*]Intake Air Temp[*]Timing[*]Boost[*]Fuel Pressure[*]Throttle Position %
Absolutely agree with you.
I will need some comparison logs to see where I'm at.
Torque PRO can log some runs can it not?
Absolutely agree with you.
I will need some comparison logs to see where I'm at.
Torque PRO can log some runs can it not?
Yup. It's a feature of the paid version but it's worth every penny. It will log to CSV format which can be imported into the spreadsheet of your choice.
Did you visually inspect hoses or take apart etc? For the hell of it I would disconnect, clean connections really good, and reattach. Those hoses flex under boost and could flex causing a leak. Mine didn't really look like it would leak but boost was pushing the hose off. Just a recommendation. Maybe when the pipe is cold it doesn't flex, then when it warms up it gets pushed off.
Did you visually inspect hoses or take apart etc? For the hell of it I would disconnect, clean connections really good, and reattach. Those hoses flex under boost and could flex causing a leak. Mine didn't really look like it would leak but boost was pushing the hose off. Just a recommendation. Maybe when the pipe is cold it doesn't flex, then when it warms up it gets pushed off.
I did a visual and checked the clamps for tightness.
Everything looks mint, right out of the show room. Only 7000 miles on it now.
That blow off valve sound is in a lot though.
Does everyone else get that sick sucking sound at light throttle, trying to drive real nice?
Just sounds to me like the boost its bypassing before I even try to make any power.
The 2011 never had this sound, I would hear the turbos spool up. This truck I never hear the turbos, just the suck/blow by sounds on the intake system.
I did a visual and checked the clamps for tightness.
Everything looks mint, right out of the show room. Only 7000 miles on it now.
That blow off valve sound is in a lot though.
Does everyone else get that sick sucking sound at light throttle, trying to drive real nice?
Just sounds to me like the boost its bypassing before I even try to make any power.
The 2011 never had this sound, I would hear the turbos spool up. This truck I never hear the turbos, just the suck/blow by sounds on the intake system.
I always had a turbulent air sound, like air getting released from an air compressor, instead of the nice crisp whistle you should hear. I now have the whistle back.
I can hear the slight pop of the blow off valve and then a sucky hoarse sound like the nozzle of a wet/dry vacuum slurping up a wet floor. This happens with fairly light throttle and most of the time during normal driving.
If I accelerate harder (More than 1/3 throttle) then it goes away, or I just can't hear it anymore.
Only on the lightest acceleration does it not make this noise, and I really doubt I have any significant boost at that light a throttle setting.
The truck seems to not accelerate well while this noise is happening either. More throttle is required. It also is the range that seems to be the hardest on my fuel economy.
Perhaps a tuner would get that BOV back in line and give me back some grunt.
Did more towing today, filled up with 87 instead of 91 and can't tell the difference in 68f temperature.
Went on an hour drive at 50 mph on country paved road and mileage 2 mpg worse than the 2011 was.
I will call tomorrow and book in and not wait for the call.
I go on holidays in 2 weeks and I really don't want to go with this dog.
It won't solve the problem, but installing an inexpensive mechanical boost gauge, even if it's just a temporary pod mount on top of your dash, might help you see what's going on and if your loosing/dumping boost pressure. Something like this:
OBD datalogs are good for post-drive analysis, but software that takes the data from the OBD port is probably too laggy to really correspond to what you are feeling in your truck. Mechanical gauges are cheap and very quick to respond.
Also, there are several OBD PID's you could use to try and look at boost pressure, some generic OBD PIDs and some Ford specific PID's that you won't be able to read with most free software, and they are all in pretty inconvenient KiloPascals instead of PSI, and all including ambient pressure so you need to deduct ambient for actual boost.
My 2013 AC sucks too. It get's plenty cold, then just when it starts making progress, it seems to cycle off for 20 seconds, the air gets humid and warmer and then it starts getting colder again. I mean WTF! I don't seem to have the issues you do with the power, but to be fair I never drove a 2011 either. Best of luck to you and let us know what happens with the AC as well!
07-20-2014, 09:27 AM
