Go Back   Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans > Late Model F150s > 2009 - Present Ford F150 > 2011+ Engine Related Questions
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-19-2014, 04:44 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default 2012 Ecoboost Coil Packs Stuck

I am replacing the spark plugs in my 2012 Ecoboost and am having a hard time getting the coil packs off. I got the first four off but they were all stuck on pretty tight. I can't get the last two (driver side closest to firewall) to come free. Any suggestions on how to get them loose?

Thanks
jmdub85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2014, 05:20 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Tothemax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,179
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 74
Thanked 103 Times in 74 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

Screw is removed and they wont come loose? Did you try twisting/wiggling them a little?

Was there a lot of corrosion on the others?
__________________
2012 F150 Super Crew Lariat W/Ecoboost
3.73 Gears
First Ford I've Ever Owned
Tothemax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2014, 05:46 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
torinalth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 478
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 5
Thanked 116 Times in 82 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

I had the same issue when I was replacing the plugs. spray a little PB blaster behind the highest point of the coil pack so it can drain down the valve cover and get to the rubber part. wait a bit, wiggle, spray again, wait, then try and remove. look at the ones you already removed and see where the weak points are. you can use a screwdriver (WIDE head) to help pry, but if you do it wrong you will crack part of the landing. looking at the removed ones will show you what i mean.
__________________
2012 White F150 Platinum Ecoboost 3.55 ELD: F150Lifts Ultimate Boss Kit, BORA 1.5" spacers, 305/55-20 Toyo AT2, Hellwig swaybars, Boost Bars lower grill, Steelcraft grillguard and tail light guards, SCT Livewire, MPT 93 tune, RX catch can and clean side separator, Polk DB 571 coaxials in the doors.
torinalth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2014, 02:57 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
chlngfyo2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: central mo
Posts: 193
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 49
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

Mine only had 20k on it but a couple of mine were tough also, I just got my finger's under the top an started twisting with light pressure an they popped off once i broke the suction.
__________________
Better to be judged by 12 than carried by 6
chlngfyo2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2014, 03:18 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
phantomblackgto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Parkville, MO
Posts: 308
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 18
Thanked 30 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

I could not get enough leverage to get the back two off either. I looped a piece of 12 guage wire around the neck and pulled like a ****. They came right off doing it this way. I wouldn't try and pry them. They are really easy to crack.
__________________
2013 XLT Off-Road 4x4 SCrew SB, Ecoboost, Rx dual valve catch can and CSS, 4" MBRP single exit cat back, Resonator delete, Bilstein 5100's all around, front set to 1.5", Fuel Trophy Anthracite wheels 18x9 +20, DuraTracs 295/65/18, Linex bedliner, Weathertech digital floor liners, Rado Auto black billet bumper insert, Stant locking fuel cap, Front license plate holder delete, Smith & Wesson MP9c security system
phantomblackgto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2014, 04:40 PM   #6
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

Hell I can't get one of my screws out that holds the coil pack. It's been in there for a while now and I know it needs to be re gapped. I really need new plugs. The piece that's in the valve cover that you screw into is loose and it just spins and spins. I've tried everything I know to get it out and it's not budging.
spence08 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2014, 11:07 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
papa tiger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,778
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 69
Thanked 93 Times in 90 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

Cut it pff with a Dremil tool ?
__________________
Brown's great; on a UPS truck.
papa tiger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2014, 04:14 PM   #8
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

Well I could cut the bolt with a Dremel and get the coil and plug out but then I couldn't tighten it down again. The only thing I know to do is replace the whole valve cover.
spence08 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2014, 07:56 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
papa tiger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,778
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 69
Thanked 93 Times in 90 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

If u cut off the head off, remove the cop and then pull the screw out, U can then drill an instal threads back with new screw. Perhaps a friend can help.
__________________
Brown's great; on a UPS truck.

Last edited by papa tiger; 10-21-2014 at 08:01 PM.
papa tiger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2014, 08:04 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
brucesears's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Western Oklahoma
Posts: 775
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 818
Thanked 107 Times in 89 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by spence08 View Post
Well I could cut the bolt with a Dremel and get the coil and plug out but then I couldn't tighten it down again. The only thing I know to do is replace the whole valve cover.
Cut the bolt with a Dremel and after you replace the plug pull the part out of the valve cover with a needlenose and degrease it thoroughly and then use JB weld to epoxy it back in place. Just be careful how much JB you get in there and don't get any on the threads. Then when you replace the bolt put just a little silicone grease on the threads and don't tighten the crap out of it. Make sure you let the JB cure well before you put it back together.
__________________
2012 Platinum 4X4 Ecoboost with 3.55 elocker and every option available, except max tow. Red Candy metallic , Fold A Cover tonneau, Line-X bedliner, EZ down tailgate assist. Led lights under the bed cover. S&B intake, SSI custom tunes.
brucesears is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2014, 08:04 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Join F150 Forum

 

The Mustang Source
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:17 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2006 - 20011 F150forum.com
This site is in no way affiliated with the Ford Motor Company.