2011 FX2 5.0 ECU information request
#1
2011 FX2 5.0 ECU information request
I have a 2011 FX2 with all the bells and whistles, a 5.0 and I have an intermittent problem that has gotten progressively worse. the first time we came across the problem when we tried to start the truck 2 hrs after a normal 20mile drive. it seemed like it was out of time or something the starter seemed to be "dragging" checked the voltage and it was 11.8 on a 4 year old battery, tried jumping the battery with my F-350, no good. I replaced the battery. started right up.
well, a week or 10 days later, same problem, it came back. I floated the neg cable started right up. a few days later it happened again, this is my daughters truck so she is stranded again. I told her how to reset, and she drove it home, devised a plan for isolation.
I gave her a 1/4 drive ratchet and sockets to float, one at a time the positive cables, there are 3 on the battery. the cable going to the fuse box on top of the radiator......... every time, seems it is resetting the ECU.
I have had an alutell, a snap-on scanner, had down at the shop, all the voltages, and "special voltages" at failure are where they are supposed to be according to Mitchell and Identifix.
replugged the ECU, gone thru and removed cleaned and tightened all the grounds, nothing has helped. it is not prone to vibration, temp changes, moisture or cussin. nothing we do can "make it fail" or "isolate". The time between failures is getting shorter, no rhyme or reason for a failure, just "there it is!!"
I assume I have a bad ECU, $800 bucks from my friendly Ford dealer, then I have to have it flashed.
what I want to know is what computer I can use? mine is
BL3A-12a650-BJC
BRBA-12B684-CC
and I know I will have to have whatever I use reflashed.
I am looking for some info on ECU's that I can use.
I think as long as it is from a 2011(that is the first letter "B" designation)
and from a 5.0 truck I should be ok, just looking to see if anyone has any experience along these lines.
well, a week or 10 days later, same problem, it came back. I floated the neg cable started right up. a few days later it happened again, this is my daughters truck so she is stranded again. I told her how to reset, and she drove it home, devised a plan for isolation.
I gave her a 1/4 drive ratchet and sockets to float, one at a time the positive cables, there are 3 on the battery. the cable going to the fuse box on top of the radiator......... every time, seems it is resetting the ECU.
I have had an alutell, a snap-on scanner, had down at the shop, all the voltages, and "special voltages" at failure are where they are supposed to be according to Mitchell and Identifix.
replugged the ECU, gone thru and removed cleaned and tightened all the grounds, nothing has helped. it is not prone to vibration, temp changes, moisture or cussin. nothing we do can "make it fail" or "isolate". The time between failures is getting shorter, no rhyme or reason for a failure, just "there it is!!"
I assume I have a bad ECU, $800 bucks from my friendly Ford dealer, then I have to have it flashed.
what I want to know is what computer I can use? mine is
BL3A-12a650-BJC
BRBA-12B684-CC
and I know I will have to have whatever I use reflashed.
I am looking for some info on ECU's that I can use.
I think as long as it is from a 2011(that is the first letter "B" designation)
and from a 5.0 truck I should be ok, just looking to see if anyone has any experience along these lines.
#2
Senior Member
Ford Motorcraft Latest Calibration Information
» United States
EDIT: Original URL/link did not accept a direct-path» United States
» Reprogramming & Initialization
» Latest Calibration Information
*~1/3 down from the top.
*~1/3 down from the top.
.
Last edited by gDMJoe; 03-04-2015 at 09:45 PM.
#5
Senior Member
markmc60 - Maybe I missed something here?....................
EDIT: Original URL/link did not accept a direct-path
.
#6
OK, so far so good.................
I looked up ECU's at car-parts dot thing, and figured out that the BL3A for 5.0 is the same in all 2011 models. the flash is different, to prove my point,(and save $800) I went to my local used part depot, snatched up a puter for 2011 5.0, similar numbers and called a local company that uses the tech for reading and flashing putters that most of the major motor companies use. he told me to leave my puter in place and he read it, saved the software, then scanned the replacement, all matched, he wiped the replacement and squirted my code on it. I had to have both of my keys available so they could be programmed to the new puter. all works fine. remotye start, dual air control remote rear window, everything works fine, heck I even replaced the bad radio base that the cd did not work(mech. bind) and he reflashed it and now..............all good.
so far so good, the puter, the reflash was $220 total................ new puter was $800. and about $250 to reflash, so far. I am happy. if this dosent fix my problem I am not out over a grand.
I looked up ECU's at car-parts dot thing, and figured out that the BL3A for 5.0 is the same in all 2011 models. the flash is different, to prove my point,(and save $800) I went to my local used part depot, snatched up a puter for 2011 5.0, similar numbers and called a local company that uses the tech for reading and flashing putters that most of the major motor companies use. he told me to leave my puter in place and he read it, saved the software, then scanned the replacement, all matched, he wiped the replacement and squirted my code on it. I had to have both of my keys available so they could be programmed to the new puter. all works fine. remotye start, dual air control remote rear window, everything works fine, heck I even replaced the bad radio base that the cd did not work(mech. bind) and he reflashed it and now..............all good.
so far so good, the puter, the reflash was $220 total................ new puter was $800. and about $250 to reflash, so far. I am happy. if this dosent fix my problem I am not out over a grand.