2011 ecoboost noise on start up
#1342
someone with this problem should try using 10w30 instead of 5w30. if fuel dilution is causing the noise this may help. we assume ford went from 5w20 to 5w30 in the early sho's because fuel dilution but thats not helping when the oil/engine is cold (when we here the noise). the only negative i can see would be fuel mileage before warmup but that would be minimal. just a thought. anybody have any thoughts. better option to me than than oil additives if it worked
5w30 and 10w30 will be at relatively the same viscosity at operating temperature. 5w30 gives better cold flow properties but the viscosity modifiers will break down sooner. The engine needs to have faster lubrication (faster flow from the sump) without sacrificing the lubrication and heat removal properties once it is heated up to operating temperature. 0w40 flows better than both of these grades at cold start (allowing the oil to reach the valvetrain/chain/etc.) much faster, and will run a bit thicker when hot. If you're towing or otherwise running your truck hard you should be running these grades anyway. The fuel dilution or HTHS will shear the oil down to a 30 weight or so, instead of your 30 weight going to 20 or less.
Don't let the increased pressure you might be seeing from adding the Lucas fool you. FLOW or volume is far more important than pressure. Clogged passages with an open bypass valve will show high pressure when in reality your engine is starving for oil... in this situation the oil pump is merely circulating the oil between the sump and the filter. This is why I suggested doing a SeaFoam run through your crankcase before changing out your oil.
Guys, this isn't a problem specific to the EcoBoost. It is inherent in ALL OHC engines, it is made worse by the ever tighter tolerances, and it will be especially prone to happen as more engine designs return to timing chains and mechanical variable cam timing. Current GF-5 engine oils and oiling system designs do not completely address all of these issues these types of engines are experiencing, and taking a one-size-fits-all approach over the life of the engine will result in your vehicle expiring at its planned obsolence date... SOMETIME PAST THE POWERTRAIN AND GOODWILL WARRANTIES.
#1343
This is why multigrade oils are used. The problem is not oils thinning to much upon reaching operating temparature, it is the other way around. Using 5W30 as the example, the second number is the weight your engine requires at operating temperature. All oils thicken when cooled, so this would be far too thick once you shut down your vehicle and let it sit. The additives (viscosity modifiers) change the flow properties when it is cool to keep the oil fluid, the first number is the grade when cool.
Thin high quality oil at startup
#1344
Senior Member
Really don't think it's a matter of flow at start up. If it was my truck would have rattled all winter with -20 temps. My truck didn't rattle at all in the Winter, because the cold temps thickened the oil and kept it in the top end before it could leak down. If it was clogged passages, coupled with oil at -20 degrees, the oil would have a real hard time flowing and should have been rattling like a bastard then
At least in my truck this is how I feel. It's entirely possible that others have different causes
At least in my truck this is how I feel. It's entirely possible that others have different causes
#1345
EB FX4 EcoRaptor
I approuve all your points above.
Mine had full of debris like very fine sand when I removed the phasers solenoid valves during the timing chain replacement. I supposed this came from the casting of the block.
On my side, I had "ratting" on start-up most of the time when the truck have been sitted for a few days no matter if it was winter or summer. I believe that it was leaking oil when the motor was still hot, whatever the outside temp.
Most of the "ratting" is now gone since I shiffer with a top quality synthetic oil AND a Ford OEM oil filter.
I still have a bit of "rattling" when truck sits for 5 days or more. But it's acceptable.
Replacing the timing chain with new one had only little coincidence on "rattling".
And yes, some Seafoam flush prior oil change have some really good cleaning effect on the engine.
Make this test:
- Take a sample of the engine oil prior dumping it.
- Pour a bottle of Seafoam in the carter with engine still hot and have it run at Idle for 10-15 Minutes with only a few rev here and there during this period of time.
- Dump the oil and compare samples colors before & after Seafoam. This is amazing! It's like if the oil just got 5Km older!
First time I did this the Brown oil turned black. I still do this prior each oil change and still see some differences.
I didn't had good experience with Castrol EDGE on another engine (VW W8). It might be because this motor stays hotter, but when making the stuck phasers/solenoid valve repair, the inside of the engine walls were full of sticky dark Brown shellac. Perhaps, it may not be the case with the F150 EB, since I use a diferent oil brand and have it Flush each time with Seafoam. Engine Inside casing almost stays like new!
Picture below is when I replaced the timing chain that did jumped one teeth on crank gear.
Mine had full of debris like very fine sand when I removed the phasers solenoid valves during the timing chain replacement. I supposed this came from the casting of the block.
On my side, I had "ratting" on start-up most of the time when the truck have been sitted for a few days no matter if it was winter or summer. I believe that it was leaking oil when the motor was still hot, whatever the outside temp.
Most of the "ratting" is now gone since I shiffer with a top quality synthetic oil AND a Ford OEM oil filter.
I still have a bit of "rattling" when truck sits for 5 days or more. But it's acceptable.
Replacing the timing chain with new one had only little coincidence on "rattling".
And yes, some Seafoam flush prior oil change have some really good cleaning effect on the engine.
Make this test:
- Take a sample of the engine oil prior dumping it.
- Pour a bottle of Seafoam in the carter with engine still hot and have it run at Idle for 10-15 Minutes with only a few rev here and there during this period of time.
- Dump the oil and compare samples colors before & after Seafoam. This is amazing! It's like if the oil just got 5Km older!
First time I did this the Brown oil turned black. I still do this prior each oil change and still see some differences.
I didn't had good experience with Castrol EDGE on another engine (VW W8). It might be because this motor stays hotter, but when making the stuck phasers/solenoid valve repair, the inside of the engine walls were full of sticky dark Brown shellac. Perhaps, it may not be the case with the F150 EB, since I use a diferent oil brand and have it Flush each time with Seafoam. Engine Inside casing almost stays like new!
Picture below is when I replaced the timing chain that did jumped one teeth on crank gear.
Last edited by Salinger; 06-29-2015 at 11:11 AM. Reason: Update
#1346
Senior Member
I'm going to have them replace the timing chain for sure and might look at replace the passenger side phaser as well. Gotta see what that will cost me before I pull the trigger on it.
#1347
Senior Member
Does anybody know if the EB has two or four phasers? I know the exhaust cam is slaved off the intake cam and that the intake cam has a phaser. This would suggest to me that there would be no need for an exhaust phaser. I just can't tell looking at the parts diagrams.
#1348
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Later y'all. You'll never find this guy on another Ford forum or owning another Ford vehicle EVER. Traded the FX4 for a reliable Toyota . Good luck to you all with your battles. Screw domestic made vehicles! They're junk!
#1349
Senior Member
Good luck, hopefully you don't have to frequent the Toyota forum. Enjoy your new ride and don't worry about all of the Toyota problems.