2011 5.0L Coolant Leak
#371
So took the truck into a local AC place in town. The lower "t" connector and lower assembly line needs replaced. It will 360+ tax. Hope this fixes it. And hopefully I do not have to replace anything else.
#372
Thanks, AMP77
I wish I'd taken some better photos of the reservoir outlet. I wasn't sure the hose would fit to it properly until I tried it, and as I stated above, the 3 ply hose gave enough flex for it to fit the way I'd hoped. I can't speak for any other hose fitting the same way. If someone else uses a different hose and it works, please let us know the details on it and where you purchased it!
Here's a photo of the outlet that I screen grabbed from rkeller's earlier post (glad he took the time to take a photo)…
As you can clearly see, there's a big fat part to the outlet from where the quick disconnect "locked on." There's enough of a flat section at the bottom to make the seal with the hose but it doesn't have a barb on it like most coolant hose/ outlet connections. (photo below shows a typical outlet w/ barb meant for a hose and clamp connection)
I was concerned about the lack of a barb on my install. Fortunately, the hose slid all the way up and I was able to add a second clamp at the very top. The top clamp probably doesn't seal the hose tight to the outlet - it just acts as a safety so that the hose can't ever slip off. The bottom clamp does the sealing. Here's a sketch that hopefully helps explain and you may be able to tell why it's important that the hose has enough flex…
I hope this helps.
Here's a photo of the outlet that I screen grabbed from rkeller's earlier post (glad he took the time to take a photo)…
As you can clearly see, there's a big fat part to the outlet from where the quick disconnect "locked on." There's enough of a flat section at the bottom to make the seal with the hose but it doesn't have a barb on it like most coolant hose/ outlet connections. (photo below shows a typical outlet w/ barb meant for a hose and clamp connection)
I was concerned about the lack of a barb on my install. Fortunately, the hose slid all the way up and I was able to add a second clamp at the very top. The top clamp probably doesn't seal the hose tight to the outlet - it just acts as a safety so that the hose can't ever slip off. The bottom clamp does the sealing. Here's a sketch that hopefully helps explain and you may be able to tell why it's important that the hose has enough flex…
I hope this helps.
#373
Senior Member
Question.
I have my new upper rad hose and y connector. Have a few days of nice weather and want to put these on. My question, while naive, is how did those of you who replaced the above parts, refill the system? Through the resovior? When I was in collision work, I would pull a vacuum through the sytem and suck the coolant in that way. Don't have access to that anymore, just don't want to leave an air pocket in the coolant system.
TIA
I have my new upper rad hose and y connector. Have a few days of nice weather and want to put these on. My question, while naive, is how did those of you who replaced the above parts, refill the system? Through the resovior? When I was in collision work, I would pull a vacuum through the sytem and suck the coolant in that way. Don't have access to that anymore, just don't want to leave an air pocket in the coolant system.
TIA
#374
Question.
I have my new upper rad hose and y connector. Have a few days of nice weather and want to put these on. My question, while naive, is how did those of you who replaced the above parts, refill the system? Through the resovior? When I was in collision work, I would pull a vacuum through the sytem and suck the coolant in that way. Don't have access to that anymore, just don't want to leave an air pocket in the coolant system.
TIA
I have my new upper rad hose and y connector. Have a few days of nice weather and want to put these on. My question, while naive, is how did those of you who replaced the above parts, refill the system? Through the resovior? When I was in collision work, I would pull a vacuum through the sytem and suck the coolant in that way. Don't have access to that anymore, just don't want to leave an air pocket in the coolant system.
TIA
The following users liked this post:
berty (02-23-2017)
#375
Senior Member
Thanks, that's what I thought.
#376
Beer, Boats, and Trucks.
Wanted to post back for anybody who cares, the RTV fix I did several weeks ago is still holding up perfectly. cheers!
#377
Refilling procedure
The manual is giving the total volume for each type of engine, as far as I know the 5.0 should take 17.3 liters, so as far as during deaeration refilling goes up to the given value no question-marks should arise. On the other hand yeah, it's a lot of refill.
The following users liked this post:
berty (02-24-2017)
#378
Beer, Boats, and Trucks.
Yeah but I didn't drain my whole system, I just let whatever was left in the tubes drain out when I disconnected the Y so the majority of what was in there stayed.
#379
Senior Member
I completely drained my radiator and took off both rad hoses the engine and oil cooler. I used about one gallon (2 gallons mixed) and that pretty much filled the whole system. Doing just the wye connector, I'd say you'd be okay with 2 gallons of premix.