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I have a2011 5.0. With the same issue , notice coolant puddle right on the back side on my drivers wheel Took to local chain shop they said it was the hose coming off the coolant tank, so I had then replace it, a month and three more trips back and it's still leaking . They replaced then O ring on the hose and then the cap on the tank. Still leaking. Pressure tests showed no leaks. But it was leaking 30 min after getting home . I was out of option beside going to the dealer, I started searching on here and had them RTv the damn hose on it yesterday. Well this morning ....puddle So now I have read about the elbow replacement from Pegasus, which I just ordered from Amazon. Super excited about this if it's the right fix. My leak is the connection directly to the tank. Dumb question here, do I need to siphon out the coolant in the tank? Then replace it ? And finally I have read reviews that say DO NOTcut the larger side of the new elbow And some that say they had to ? Any clarification on this or tutorial? Thank in advance guys
If they applied the RTV while they had it at the garage and let you drive it home the same day, they didn't allow it to cure. It needs to set for a minimum of 24 hours before you put coolant back in the system. Permatex red high temp RTV, when applied properly and allowed to cure, stopped both of my leaks.
When I used the Pegasus fix, I decided to do drain the coolant and replace it all anyway (76k on my '12) so that's what I did. If your coolant is fairly new, then I would siphon/drain it and reuse. Keep in mind though that there will still be coolant in the hose even if the overflow reservoir is empty.
Also, I did not cut the big end on the replacement hose. Kind of defeats the purpose. I did disconnect/remove the air box to pull out the reservoir. This gave me more leverage and space to ensure the replacement hose is completely on the reservoir. It seems like a PIA, but I'm short and my truck is lifted so it's even more of a PIA to get in the engine bay and do something like this.
Here are a couple of pics of what it looked like. Hope this helps.
thanks for the input and pics. I just had them flush and change my fluid out in February when this first started. Ill pick up a cheap siphon and do that. Thanks again man
2. 2x Ford Part# BC3Z-8590F : One for upper hose and one for lower hose.
3. 1x BS-210 EPDM O-Ring : For water pump to DR3Z8566A part.
I just wanted to update this, I made a typo on the last o-ring I meant to type bs-218.
I have the 218 installed now and it is holding, but the OEM part I measured to .157" which is a bit thicker than the actual dimensions of the 218 (.139 +/-.003) This is the closest oring I can currently find. the next size up on standard orings is 3/16" nominal which has actual dimensions of .210 +-.005 this is way too thick. Even specialty 5/32" nominal thick orings have actual dimensions of .176 which is also too thick but if my 218 starts leaking I may try the 5/32" thick
Last edited by 2011 f150 5.0L; 04-08-2016 at 09:44 PM.
Another coolant reservoir quick disconnect next leak
Originally Posted by benchwarmer4203
You should be getting royalties from Pegasus.
For sure AMP should be getting some kickbacks! I really appreciate the info. I had the coolant tank quick disconnect leak (2011 ecoboost) and I used the hose and clamps from AMP's post and a heater hose elbow I had on hand. I used permetex on the upper section of the reservoir outlet and the last couple barbs on the elbow. Been just a couple days but so far so good. The heater hose elbow had nice long barbed ends for a really tight fit and good engagement into each hose. One thing I did notice is that the large diameter on the outlet from the coolant tank had good sized raised seams from the molding process, so I used a fine file to knock of the high spots before reassembling.
So, like many of you, I started noticing a coolant smell and realized I had a leak just after the bumper-to-bumper part of my warranty expired. Took it to Ford, yup T-Connector had a slow leak, and they wanted $550 to replace it... **** off. So I ordered the new connector myself, and yes, my god it's an outstanding feat of engineering garbage. Popped the new one on tonight, hopefully I'm all good.
Here's where it got weird though... Fired her up, everything seemed fine. Went for a short drive, but by the time I got back, I was getting a "Low Battery Features Shutting Down" warning message, and was actually getting a strange, almost horn like sound happening when I hit the brakes while at low speed or idle. I spilled a fair bit of coolant and rinsed it all the best I could in low light, but it was still pretty wet in there. Could this just be an issue of belt slippage causing all this?
Thanks for the insight through this forum. I think that my truck is doing this same thing. I bought my 2013 Ford F150 XLT 5.0 just over a month ago. Started out with the A/C fans being on all the time, so with looking into that I noticed that my coolant was extremely low. I put in coolant before work yesterday and when I come out to go home, all of my coolant had gone out. Made an appointment for Monday to take my truck in to get looked at (I'm not very good with working on cars), but I may want to check this out to save some money before I take it in.
03-23-2016, 09:14 PM
