2011 3.7L Acceleration / Gearing
12-08-2016, 12:23 PM
#1
2011 3.7L Acceleration / Gearing
I didn't see anything in the search for this (or maybe the wrong search terms?):
I love my truck, but I'm not sure if this is normal.
The truck seems really slow taking off (even with the A/C off), and when I give it a little extra, it will drop gears and shoot up to 6500 RPM and violently jerk forward. It's like it's dropping two gears instead of one. This is most noticeable when turning out into the road and speeding up to match the traffic.
Nothing's cutting out or anything, but it's like the gear shifting is off. This seems off to me, but maybe because it's a heavy truck?? (2011 Super Crew v6)
Thanks!
I love my truck, but I'm not sure if this is normal.
The truck seems really slow taking off (even with the A/C off), and when I give it a little extra, it will drop gears and shoot up to 6500 RPM and violently jerk forward. It's like it's dropping two gears instead of one. This is most noticeable when turning out into the road and speeding up to match the traffic.
Nothing's cutting out or anything, but it's like the gear shifting is off. This seems off to me, but maybe because it's a heavy truck?? (2011 Super Crew v6)
Thanks!
12-08-2016, 02:35 PM
#2
Senior Member
Howdy
How long have you had this truck? I don't believe this to be a mechanical issue.
The 3.7 is a good motor, my father but a 2012 extended cab with a 6.5' bed and he has nothing but great things to say about it. He does have to put his foot in it if he wants to get into traffic. The engine doesn't start making it's HP and TQ until about 3500RPM. IIRC trucks with the 3.7 got the 3.73 rear end, most likely to offset the lack of available engine torque at low RPM.
I've been driving a rental, 2017 supercrew with the 3.5L. The new body style is considerably lighter than my 2012 suprecrew w/ 5.0. The new truck is very nimble and I can feel the weight difference. It still feels solid over various terrain. Back to your initial question about acceleration issues here is what I have noticed; it's all about throttle position. You gotta commit to the pedal position and trust the ECU will learn what you demand acceleration wise. The rate you apply pressure to the throttle is electronically captured by the ECU and used to determine the amount of torque and power to send to the rear wheels.
There is a TPS reset operation you can perform in your driveway. This process is supposed to force the ECU to reset forcing it to relearn and adapt to your driving style. People report improved throttle response and driveability.
The 3.7 is a good motor, my father but a 2012 extended cab with a 6.5' bed and he has nothing but great things to say about it. He does have to put his foot in it if he wants to get into traffic. The engine doesn't start making it's HP and TQ until about 3500RPM. IIRC trucks with the 3.7 got the 3.73 rear end, most likely to offset the lack of available engine torque at low RPM.
I've been driving a rental, 2017 supercrew with the 3.5L. The new body style is considerably lighter than my 2012 suprecrew w/ 5.0. The new truck is very nimble and I can feel the weight difference. It still feels solid over various terrain. Back to your initial question about acceleration issues here is what I have noticed; it's all about throttle position. You gotta commit to the pedal position and trust the ECU will learn what you demand acceleration wise. The rate you apply pressure to the throttle is electronically captured by the ECU and used to determine the amount of torque and power to send to the rear wheels.
There is a TPS reset operation you can perform in your driveway. This process is supposed to force the ECU to reset forcing it to relearn and adapt to your driving style. People report improved throttle response and driveability.
12-08-2016, 03:34 PM
#3
How long have you had this truck? I don't believe this to be a mechanical issue.
The 3.7 is a good motor, my father but a 2012 extended cab with a 6.5' bed and he has nothing but great things to say about it. He does have to put his foot in it if he wants to get into traffic. The engine doesn't start making it's HP and TQ until about 3500RPM. IIRC trucks with the 3.7 got the 3.73 rear end, most likely to offset the lack of available engine torque at low RPM.
I've been driving a rental, 2017 supercrew with the 3.5L. The new body style is considerably lighter than my 2012 suprecrew w/ 5.0. The new truck is very nimble and I can feel the weight difference. It still feels solid over various terrain. Back to your initial question about acceleration issues here is what I have noticed; it's all about throttle position. You gotta commit to the pedal position and trust the ECU will learn what you demand acceleration wise. The rate you apply pressure to the throttle is electronically captured by the ECU and used to determine the amount of torque and power to send to the rear wheels.
There is a TPS reset operation you can perform in your driveway. This process is supposed to force the ECU to reset forcing it to relearn and adapt to your driving style. People report improved throttle response and driveability.
The 3.7 is a good motor, my father but a 2012 extended cab with a 6.5' bed and he has nothing but great things to say about it. He does have to put his foot in it if he wants to get into traffic. The engine doesn't start making it's HP and TQ until about 3500RPM. IIRC trucks with the 3.7 got the 3.73 rear end, most likely to offset the lack of available engine torque at low RPM.
I've been driving a rental, 2017 supercrew with the 3.5L. The new body style is considerably lighter than my 2012 suprecrew w/ 5.0. The new truck is very nimble and I can feel the weight difference. It still feels solid over various terrain. Back to your initial question about acceleration issues here is what I have noticed; it's all about throttle position. You gotta commit to the pedal position and trust the ECU will learn what you demand acceleration wise. The rate you apply pressure to the throttle is electronically captured by the ECU and used to determine the amount of torque and power to send to the rear wheels.
There is a TPS reset operation you can perform in your driveway. This process is supposed to force the ECU to reset forcing it to relearn and adapt to your driving style. People report improved throttle response and driveability.
12-13-2016, 11:46 PM
#4
Crotchety Old Man
I found before I did a tune that my truck lagged at first, then shifted late and redlined. It drove me nuts and I hated my truck.
You would be rolling along slowing down at a light or yield, then the light would change or the coast was clear and you gas it up to go, but it would stay in gear for a few seconds then suddenly downshift and red line. Once the engine starts winding it winds up to the top fast.
The tune changed the truck entirely for me. I also did LT rated tires and some add a leaf springs to make my truck a truck and other than poor fuel econ I am happy with it now.
Now a quick depress of the throttle has it change gears sooner.
I can't recall if mine jumped right to 6500 though, i want to say it usually went from 2000-2500 rpm up to 4-5k and if I keep it pinned, right to 7.
You would be rolling along slowing down at a light or yield, then the light would change or the coast was clear and you gas it up to go, but it would stay in gear for a few seconds then suddenly downshift and red line. Once the engine starts winding it winds up to the top fast.
The tune changed the truck entirely for me. I also did LT rated tires and some add a leaf springs to make my truck a truck and other than poor fuel econ I am happy with it now.
Now a quick depress of the throttle has it change gears sooner.
I can't recall if mine jumped right to 6500 though, i want to say it usually went from 2000-2500 rpm up to 4-5k and if I keep it pinned, right to 7.
12-14-2016, 12:11 AM
#5
I found before I did a tune that my truck lagged at first, then shifted late and redlined. It drove me nuts and I hated my truck.
You would be rolling along slowing down at a light or yield, then the light would change or the coast was clear and you gas it up to go, but it would stay in gear for a few seconds then suddenly downshift and red line. Once the engine starts winding it winds up to the top fast.
The tune changed the truck entirely for me. I also did LT rated tires and some add a leaf springs to make my truck a truck and other than poor fuel econ I am happy with it now.
Now a quick depress of the throttle has it change gears sooner.
I can't recall if mine jumped right to 6500 though, i want to say it usually went from 2000-2500 rpm up to 4-5k and if I keep it pinned, right to 7.
You would be rolling along slowing down at a light or yield, then the light would change or the coast was clear and you gas it up to go, but it would stay in gear for a few seconds then suddenly downshift and red line. Once the engine starts winding it winds up to the top fast.
The tune changed the truck entirely for me. I also did LT rated tires and some add a leaf springs to make my truck a truck and other than poor fuel econ I am happy with it now.
Now a quick depress of the throttle has it change gears sooner.
I can't recall if mine jumped right to 6500 though, i want to say it usually went from 2000-2500 rpm up to 4-5k and if I keep it pinned, right to 7.
Thanks!
Last edited by 2011SCrew; 12-14-2016 at 12:14 AM.
12-14-2016, 10:10 AM
#6
Senior Member
Tune
There are several platforms available for tuning the truck. When the vehicle is tuned, the ECU is reprogrammed with new values that address fuel and spark trims, transmission shift schedules and line pressure, power and torque delivery relative to throttle position, etc... There are several platforms available that offer what we call "canned" tunes. These tunes are what some refer to as "base tunes" meaning they increase performance over stock and are written to cover a large base of users. You also have the option to purchase a "custom" tune from a vendor. Custom tunes are written specific to your vehicle and your driving habits/style. Custom tunes typically address many more tables in the ECU in order to create a more precise driving experience. Good tuners will be well acquainted with these tables and will provide you an excellent product that far exceeds the performance of stock configuration. At a minimum a custom tune will refine the shifting making the transmission perform quicker, smoother and with better shifting strategies. There will be a noticeable increase in power and torque all throughout the RPM range.
You have several platforms to choose from. SCT, Edge, HP tuners, Hypertech, Bullydog, and Diablo sport are the big players. Each of these companies sells a device that plugs in to your OBDII port. Tunes may be loaded from your computer to the tuning device via USB. I have personally used canned tunes from Hypertech, Diablo, and SCT. I went the custom tuning route about 4 years ago and per the recommendation of my tuner went with an SCT device. A good tuner will ask you to datalog your vehicle when writing the file for your vehicle. When you datalog, the device or your laptop is used to capture output from the ECU while you drive. You will have the option to tune the vehicle for different octanes as well as different scenarios like towing, racing, econo, and even snow! The tuner may ask you for a 0-60 run and some other driving scenarios. Once complete the tuner will review the logs and write the tune specific to your vehicle. In this instance you have the option to make changes to your liking such as a firmer transmission shift, or maybe you want to increase the rev limiter in the first 2 gears. A good tuner should not need more than one or two logs to get your tune written to your liking.
I personally have been with Southern Speed Inc for 4 years now (http://southernspeedinc.com). All of my tunes have been incredible. I've never had an issue with any of my tunes. If I have ever needed a change or a revision, I simply call the tuner and 9 times out of 10 the revision was in my inbox before we got off the phone. You can also look into 5 star and MPT they have thousands of customers too. I wouldn't bother with the pedal max or any other "chip" type device. Tuning the vehicle is the most cost effective way to really increase the performance of the vehicle and will net you better gains than any bolt on you may choose with the exception of forced induction. If you elect to get an aftermarket intake and exhaust, tuning the vehicle will make those add ons much more effective.
Good luck with your choices, there are plenty out there! Let us know what you do when you do it!
You have several platforms to choose from. SCT, Edge, HP tuners, Hypertech, Bullydog, and Diablo sport are the big players. Each of these companies sells a device that plugs in to your OBDII port. Tunes may be loaded from your computer to the tuning device via USB. I have personally used canned tunes from Hypertech, Diablo, and SCT. I went the custom tuning route about 4 years ago and per the recommendation of my tuner went with an SCT device. A good tuner will ask you to datalog your vehicle when writing the file for your vehicle. When you datalog, the device or your laptop is used to capture output from the ECU while you drive. You will have the option to tune the vehicle for different octanes as well as different scenarios like towing, racing, econo, and even snow! The tuner may ask you for a 0-60 run and some other driving scenarios. Once complete the tuner will review the logs and write the tune specific to your vehicle. In this instance you have the option to make changes to your liking such as a firmer transmission shift, or maybe you want to increase the rev limiter in the first 2 gears. A good tuner should not need more than one or two logs to get your tune written to your liking.
I personally have been with Southern Speed Inc for 4 years now (http://southernspeedinc.com). All of my tunes have been incredible. I've never had an issue with any of my tunes. If I have ever needed a change or a revision, I simply call the tuner and 9 times out of 10 the revision was in my inbox before we got off the phone. You can also look into 5 star and MPT they have thousands of customers too. I wouldn't bother with the pedal max or any other "chip" type device. Tuning the vehicle is the most cost effective way to really increase the performance of the vehicle and will net you better gains than any bolt on you may choose with the exception of forced induction. If you elect to get an aftermarket intake and exhaust, tuning the vehicle will make those add ons much more effective.
Good luck with your choices, there are plenty out there! Let us know what you do when you do it!
12-14-2016, 04:08 PM
#7
There are several platforms available for tuning the truck. When the vehicle is tuned, the ECU is reprogrammed with new values that address fuel and spark trims, transmission shift schedules and line pressure, power and torque delivery relative to throttle position, etc... There are several platforms available that offer what we call "canned" tunes. These tunes are what some refer to as "base tunes" meaning they increase performance over stock and are written to cover a large base of users. You also have the option to purchase a "custom" tune from a vendor. Custom tunes are written specific to your vehicle and your driving habits/style. Custom tunes typically address many more tables in the ECU in order to create a more precise driving experience. Good tuners will be well acquainted with these tables and will provide you an excellent product that far exceeds the performance of stock configuration. At a minimum a custom tune will refine the shifting making the transmission perform quicker, smoother and with better shifting strategies. There will be a noticeable increase in power and torque all throughout the RPM range.
You have several platforms to choose from. SCT, Edge, HP tuners, Hypertech, Bullydog, and Diablo sport are the big players. Each of these companies sells a device that plugs in to your OBDII port. Tunes may be loaded from your computer to the tuning device via USB. I have personally used canned tunes from Hypertech, Diablo, and SCT. I went the custom tuning route about 4 years ago and per the recommendation of my tuner went with an SCT device. A good tuner will ask you to datalog your vehicle when writing the file for your vehicle. When you datalog, the device or your laptop is used to capture output from the ECU while you drive. You will have the option to tune the vehicle for different octanes as well as different scenarios like towing, racing, econo, and even snow! The tuner may ask you for a 0-60 run and some other driving scenarios. Once complete the tuner will review the logs and write the tune specific to your vehicle. In this instance you have the option to make changes to your liking such as a firmer transmission shift, or maybe you want to increase the rev limiter in the first 2 gears. A good tuner should not need more than one or two logs to get your tune written to your liking.
I personally have been with Southern Speed Inc for 4 years now (http://southernspeedinc.com). All of my tunes have been incredible. I've never had an issue with any of my tunes. If I have ever needed a change or a revision, I simply call the tuner and 9 times out of 10 the revision was in my inbox before we got off the phone. You can also look into 5 star and MPT they have thousands of customers too. I wouldn't bother with the pedal max or any other "chip" type device. Tuning the vehicle is the most cost effective way to really increase the performance of the vehicle and will net you better gains than any bolt on you may choose with the exception of forced induction. If you elect to get an aftermarket intake and exhaust, tuning the vehicle will make those add ons much more effective.
Good luck with your choices, there are plenty out there! Let us know what you do when you do it!
You have several platforms to choose from. SCT, Edge, HP tuners, Hypertech, Bullydog, and Diablo sport are the big players. Each of these companies sells a device that plugs in to your OBDII port. Tunes may be loaded from your computer to the tuning device via USB. I have personally used canned tunes from Hypertech, Diablo, and SCT. I went the custom tuning route about 4 years ago and per the recommendation of my tuner went with an SCT device. A good tuner will ask you to datalog your vehicle when writing the file for your vehicle. When you datalog, the device or your laptop is used to capture output from the ECU while you drive. You will have the option to tune the vehicle for different octanes as well as different scenarios like towing, racing, econo, and even snow! The tuner may ask you for a 0-60 run and some other driving scenarios. Once complete the tuner will review the logs and write the tune specific to your vehicle. In this instance you have the option to make changes to your liking such as a firmer transmission shift, or maybe you want to increase the rev limiter in the first 2 gears. A good tuner should not need more than one or two logs to get your tune written to your liking.
I personally have been with Southern Speed Inc for 4 years now (http://southernspeedinc.com). All of my tunes have been incredible. I've never had an issue with any of my tunes. If I have ever needed a change or a revision, I simply call the tuner and 9 times out of 10 the revision was in my inbox before we got off the phone. You can also look into 5 star and MPT they have thousands of customers too. I wouldn't bother with the pedal max or any other "chip" type device. Tuning the vehicle is the most cost effective way to really increase the performance of the vehicle and will net you better gains than any bolt on you may choose with the exception of forced induction. If you elect to get an aftermarket intake and exhaust, tuning the vehicle will make those add ons much more effective.
Good luck with your choices, there are plenty out there! Let us know what you do when you do it!
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12-19-2016, 06:17 PM
#8
Crotchety Old Man
I am running an off the shelf SCT tune that came on the X4 programmer. You can then get custom tunes emailed to you and added to the tuner.
As Violinguy77 said " good tuner will ask you to datalog your vehicle when writing the file for your vehicle. When you datalog, the device or your laptop is used to capture output from the ECU while you drive"
Might be easier for you to talk to one of the tuners on the phone they can explain it better than typing maybe.
As Violinguy77 said " good tuner will ask you to datalog your vehicle when writing the file for your vehicle. When you datalog, the device or your laptop is used to capture output from the ECU while you drive"
Might be easier for you to talk to one of the tuners on the phone they can explain it better than typing maybe.
12-19-2016, 08:04 PM
#9
4Runner Driver
3.73s are an option, not standard equipment on 3.7 trucks. The standard gear is a 3.15 for CAFE purposes. I've driven a 3.15 truck, it's a lot slower than a 3.73-geared truck.
As far as it downshifting multiple gears at once under heavy throttle, that's normal. Nothing beats the ol' 6-2 downshift at wot under 60mph!
As far as it downshifting multiple gears at once under heavy throttle, that's normal. Nothing beats the ol' 6-2 downshift at wot under 60mph!
12-21-2016, 10:52 AM
#10
Senior Member
Hell to the no lol
3.73s are an option, not standard equipment on 3.7 trucks. The standard gear is a 3.15 for CAFE purposes. I've driven a 3.15 truck, it's a lot slower than a 3.73-geared truck.
As far as it downshifting multiple gears at once under heavy throttle, that's normal. Nothing beats the ol' 6-2 downshift at wot under 60mph!
As far as it downshifting multiple gears at once under heavy throttle, that's normal. Nothing beats the ol' 6-2 downshift at wot under 60mph!