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Stage # Oil Catch Cans

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Old 11-14-2016, 09:39 PM
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Default Stage 3 Oil Catch Cans

So I was checking out Stage 3 motor sports for parts for my 11 SCREW Ecoboost and I came across the oil catch cans. I was wondering how many of you use it and do you have the single or double set up.

Last edited by ryanp77; 11-14-2016 at 09:56 PM.
Old 11-15-2016, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ryanp77
So I was checking out Stage 3 motor sports for parts for my 11 SCREW Ecoboost and I came across the oil catch cans. I was wondering how many of you use it and do you have the single or double set up.
They are great people at Stage 3 Motorsports, I sell the McNally brand cans through them there along side of UPR. Go dual valve whatever you do, there is no point in running a single valve can ever, in my opinion.

A single valve can only has one vacuum connection which typically routes to the intake manifold. Only utilizing the intake manifold means your can only works with efficiency at idle. Once you begin acceleration, the throttle body blade opens and exposes the intake to the atmosphere. Once exposed to the atmosphere, the vacuum signal is lost.

You make the most blow-by byproduct during higher RPM's, that's when you need vacuum on the can most. Another part of the equation are the one way check valves, don't use multiple vacuum sources without them. That way while one vacuum source is providing vacuum the other outgoing vacuum connection is closed. This will ensure that you only pull foul vapor into the incoming port where the coalescing and baffling system is located. If you pull vapor into the unused outgoing port, the oil laden vapor will come in and go right back out.

Anyway, hope this info makes sense and helps, good luck whatever brand you buy, there are some great products out there. I sell McNally and UPR, both awesome products.

Thanks,

Tommy Thomsen
Old 11-15-2016, 06:21 PM
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Thanks for the insight Tommy, it looks like I may go with the dual set up. I have about 62k on the truck, is there anything I can do to clean the system or just hook it up and let it go?
Old 11-16-2016, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ryanp77
Thanks for the insight Tommy, it looks like I may go with the dual set up. I have about 62k on the truck, is there anything I can do to clean the system or just hook it up and let it go?
You're welcome and absolutely if this is a 2011-2014 and that would be dropping the intercooler and rinsing it out. You'll want to change plugs as well, especially if you have experienced the stumbling associated with the condensation issue.

Once the oil separating catch can is installed a lot of the moisture in the system will be caught in the can. Also drive it like you stole it regularly.

Good luck!
Old 11-16-2016, 02:45 PM
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I read somewhere that the late 2013's and 2014's had a redesigned intercooler and didn't have the problem with the cross contamination. Is that not accurate?
Old 11-17-2016, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieb_wv
I read somewhere that the late 2013's and 2014's had a redesigned intercooler and didn't have the problem with the cross contamination. Is that not accurate?
Quite inaccurate as far as I know. It wasn't resolved until the redesign in 2015 but it was completely resolved. Oil ingestion at the drivers side turbo and intake manifold are still an issue in the later models but not excess condensation. The CAC (intercooler) was completely redesigned which is why the grill no longer goes up with the hood as it did on the 2011-2014's.
Old 11-28-2016, 01:21 PM
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So I got around to ordering a catch can I planned on buying the radiator mount but bought the engine mount instead, Should I return the engine mount and get the radiator mount? I know the radiator mount would be easier to drain but I live in Indiana would the radiator mount freeze in the winter? Would I have to get under the truck to drain the engine bay mounted can?




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