Need some Input on auxiliary fuse block
11-15-2014, 06:28 PM
#1
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Need some Input on auxiliary fuse block
Im doing some work on my dads 2014 F150 STX
My idea is to get an optima yellow top battery and wire in an auxiliary fuse block to run power to lighting, 2 12v power ports in the bed, auxiliary back up lights, and a winch.
Does anyone have any ideas what would be my best plan of action to start this project?
My idea is to get an optima yellow top battery and wire in an auxiliary fuse block to run power to lighting, 2 12v power ports in the bed, auxiliary back up lights, and a winch.
Does anyone have any ideas what would be my best plan of action to start this project?
11-18-2014, 09:57 AM
#2
I'm not sure if you are planning an aux battery or an aux fuse block project. If it's the latter, I just installed an ignition-switched aux fuse block for my truck and would be happy to share how I did it if you think it would be helpful.
11-20-2014, 10:20 AM
#4
I think the aux lights would be an excellent candidate for an aux fuse block. Tell me more about the aux power ports - are you referring to 12V power outlets? As far as the winch goes, I am no electrical expert but my understanding is that it is recommended to wire the winch directly to the battery due to its high current draw.
In my system I use a 100A fuse, 100A circuit breaker, and 100A fuse block. I haven't seen a lot of fuse blocks rated much higher. I recommend to start by outlining the different accessories you hope to connect to the aux fuse block and the amperage draw of each. Some products will list the max amperage draw directly. If they do not, you can use A=W/V to get a good approximation. For instance, for a 50 inch Rigid light bar the technical specs say that it draws 19.93A. If it didn't say that, I could of also got a rough approximation by dividing the 275W output by 13.9V (the voltage reading from my battery when running).
Hope this helps and let me know what else you want to know.
In my system I use a 100A fuse, 100A circuit breaker, and 100A fuse block. I haven't seen a lot of fuse blocks rated much higher. I recommend to start by outlining the different accessories you hope to connect to the aux fuse block and the amperage draw of each. Some products will list the max amperage draw directly. If they do not, you can use A=W/V to get a good approximation. For instance, for a 50 inch Rigid light bar the technical specs say that it draws 19.93A. If it didn't say that, I could of also got a rough approximation by dividing the 275W output by 13.9V (the voltage reading from my battery when running).
Hope this helps and let me know what else you want to know.
Last edited by NateC; 11-20-2014 at 07:14 PM.
11-20-2014, 10:28 AM
#5
Just re-read your last reply and I see that you are referring to 12V power ports. I think those would be a good candidate for an aux fuse block as well.
My basic system design is as follows:
1. 4awg wire from battery positive terminal to 100A fuse.
2. 4awg wire from 100A fuse to 100A resettable circuit breaker.
3. 4awg wire from 100A circuit breaker to 100A relay (more on that later).
4. 4awg wire from 100A relay to 100A fuse block.
5. 4awg wire from fuse block to ground.
I ran 16awg wire from an ignition switched source in the cab (used an add a circuit from the pax fuse block that was currently not used) to act as the power source/switching input to the relay. This way power only goes to my fuse block when the ignition is on, preventing a dufus like me from accidentally draining the battery.
Having both the fuse and circuit breaker is kind of redundant, but being an engineer I tend to overdesign things. I also like having the circuit breaker because it can be physically opened/break the circuit to prevent any power from getting to the aux fuse block (perfect when you go to the dealership and don't want them messing anything up).
My basic system design is as follows:
1. 4awg wire from battery positive terminal to 100A fuse.
2. 4awg wire from 100A fuse to 100A resettable circuit breaker.
3. 4awg wire from 100A circuit breaker to 100A relay (more on that later).
4. 4awg wire from 100A relay to 100A fuse block.
5. 4awg wire from fuse block to ground.
I ran 16awg wire from an ignition switched source in the cab (used an add a circuit from the pax fuse block that was currently not used) to act as the power source/switching input to the relay. This way power only goes to my fuse block when the ignition is on, preventing a dufus like me from accidentally draining the battery.
Having both the fuse and circuit breaker is kind of redundant, but being an engineer I tend to overdesign things. I also like having the circuit breaker because it can be physically opened/break the circuit to prevent any power from getting to the aux fuse block (perfect when you go to the dealership and don't want them messing anything up).
Last edited by NateC; 11-20-2014 at 07:16 PM.
