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Leveling Kits FAQ

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Old 03-09-2014, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by folmonty
Stumbled onto this thread (thanks to the OP Lenn) while looking to level out a stock 2013 XLT F150 screw 4WD. Load of great information and comments. Don't recall this link being mentioned but Bilstein does a nice job of explaining benifits and features of using the 5100 series shock. BILSTEIN Shock Shop - Differences between 5100 Series Ride Height Adjustable & Spacer Kit - YouTube
Great link, but I still don't get it. What am I missing?

If I lift my truck 2 inches (did with a Readylift over spring spacer) I increase the angle for my control arm and ball joints. If I lift it with the Bilsteins. With the bilsteens I am simply using increasing the preload on the spring as a means to lift the truck. Moving the bottom spring stop up the shock is no different than placing a spacer on the top of the spring to compress it more.

What am I missing on this? I am not trying to call anybody out on this, I am truly curious how this works.

Last edited by Rockjock3; 03-09-2014 at 10:51 PM.
Old 03-10-2014, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Rockjock3
Great link, but I still don't get it. What am I missing?

If I lift my truck 2 inches (did with a Readylift over spring spacer) I increase the angle for my control arm and ball joints. If I lift it with the Bilsteins. With the bilsteens I am simply using increasing the preload on the spring as a means to lift the truck. Moving the bottom spring stop up the shock is no different than placing a spacer on the top of the spring to compress it more.

What am I missing on this? I am not trying to call anybody out on this, I am truly curious how this works.
Watch the video again. The key point is suspension travel. The Bilstein design overcomes the effects that are caused by changes in installed length.

Last edited by redneck wrencher; 03-10-2014 at 08:35 AM.
Old 03-10-2014, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Rockjock3
Great link, but I still don't get it. What am I missing?

If I lift my truck 2 inches (did with a Readylift over spring spacer) I increase the angle for my control arm and ball joints. If I lift it with the Bilsteins. With the bilsteens I am simply using increasing the preload on the spring as a means to lift the truck. Moving the bottom spring stop up the shock is no different than placing a spacer on the top of the spring to compress it more.

What am I missing on this? I am not trying to call anybody out on this, I am truly curious how this works.
Your not missing anything...
Old 03-10-2014, 02:24 PM
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Redneck wrencher,

Thanks, I thought I was going mad for a minute. I did get the travel and that is a nice part. The thing I thought I was missing something about is they keep talking about Their way is better and it won't wear out your suspension because the angles don't change. That's what I thought I was missing, because If I lift the truck up "ANY" inches I change the angles, it doesn't matter how, unless I only do it by putting taller tires on. So basically that part is a pile. Thanks again.


Originally Posted by techrep
Your not missing anything...
Whew, thanks, thought it was just me.
Old 03-10-2014, 02:52 PM
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That's why lift kit's come with drop spindles..
Old 03-12-2014, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Capt Jack Sparrow
Awesome thread! In my last 2 F150's I have used the spacers kits that are mounted on top, I am now interested in the Bilstein's, they seem to be a better choice for the suspension and wear. I have just purchased a F150 2014 Platinum and cannot stand the nose down look and feel. Not knowing much about them, any advice would help. I believe the ones I am looking for are the 5100 series?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Is there a reason that Ford builds the F150 with the nose down look. Seems like there must be a reason because it seems easy to level them

Last edited by ztman; 03-12-2014 at 07:48 PM.
Old 03-13-2014, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ztman
Is there a reason that Ford builds the F150 with the nose down look. Seems like there must be a reason because it seems easy to level them
actually the rear end is high...it's for towing...hook a 9000lb trailer to the truck and it will sit level
Old 03-13-2014, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by techrep
actually the rear end is high...it's for towing...hook a 9000lb trailer to the truck and it will sit level

So, if lifting the front has the potential to create excess wear, why not just lower the rear? I know, the higher the better, but for the others that don't tow heavy loads, and are not concerned with the lifted look , wouldn't it make more sense to lower the rear?
Old 03-13-2014, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ztman
So, if lifting the front has the potential to create excess wear, why not just lower the rear? I know, the higher the better, but for the others that don't tow heavy loads, and are not concerned with the lifted look , wouldn't it make more sense to lower the rear?
Because, most people want to run larger tires...and need the added clearance up front... but you could lower the rear to level ...but then you will not be able to tow a heavy load.
Old 03-13-2014, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by techrep
Because, most people want to run larger tires...and need the added clearance up front... but you could lower the rear to level ...but then you will not be able to tow a heavy load.
That make sense. I see other vehicles with heavy tow ratings, but they start out of the gate level. Ie, I tow a 7k lb trailer with my Suburban and it starts out level and stays level if you have the trailer loaded right. I don't mind that my f150 is higher in the rear by two inches. I know some do


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