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Old 08-27-2014, 08:41 PM
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I recently purchased a Hornblasters Conducters Special kit. I have all of it mounted, i'm just having troubles on the wiring. It says to hook into a 12V source with the compressors power cable, but NOT directly the battery. What options do i have? I'm decent with electrical, but this has me stumped. Looking through others installs too, i cant seem to find any good looks at how the electrical is ran. Anyone got some good pictures to help me out?

This is going on a 04' F150 FX4 Scab (new body style)

Thanks a bunch!

Hunter
Old 08-28-2014, 11:10 AM
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I just don't get why people do this. You can permanently damage someone's hearing if you blast them and they're close enough.

But what the heck, it's worth it to see their reaction, right? Darn funny.
Old 08-28-2014, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by terraformer
I just don't get why people do this. You can permanently damage someone's hearing if you blast them and they're close enough.

But what the heck, it's worth it to see their reaction, right? Darn funny.
In all honesty, that's not my intention by any means... But thanks for the assumption.
I completely understand where you are coming from though, as that's what you see a lot of people do with them. I have no need for them but would like to have them available when i want, and for the idiot drivers i randomly encounter.
Old 08-29-2014, 10:12 AM
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Fair enough, and you're right about the assumption. I'd wager that most folks who get these things do it for the "startle" factor and the resulting loads of laughs.

But just keep in mind that this startle factor applies to idiot drivers too. Most people are used to the intensity of regular auto horns, and there is a real possibility of the startle response translating into a jerk of the steering wheel, loss of control, etc. Just not a good idea IMO.
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Old 08-30-2014, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by terraformer
Fair enough, and you're right about the assumption. I'd wager that most folks who get these things do it for the "startle" factor and the resulting loads of laughs.

But just keep in mind that this startle factor applies to idiot drivers too. Most people are used to the intensity of regular auto horns, and there is a real possibility of the startle response translating into a jerk of the steering wheel, loss of control, etc. Just not a good idea IMO.
I agree with you 100%. It's all relative to what the owner is going to do with the horn. Trucks going into a shop this week to wire them for me. Thanks though!
Old 08-30-2014, 08:57 PM
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Good luck!
Old 08-31-2014, 04:10 PM
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Default Maybe if .....

Originally Posted by terraformer
I just don't get why people do this. You can permanently damage someone's hearing if you blast them and they're close enough.

But what the heck, it's worth it to see their reaction, right? Darn funny.
If You lived in Ca you might understand the need to get someones attention ........ out here People are Idiots , lots of them they are everywhere in abundance ... 1 in 10 are going to do right ... Idiots will look at you an cut you off knowing they shouldn't but they do anyways .... I just want a tool I can use to educate the stupid ones ... if they go deaf .. so be it , i have had it with stupid .... Come out here and see how many idiots are behind the wheel and I guarantee you will see things a little different ...... You guys that live in other good states are so lucky I can't wait to get outta this sinking ship ...... Ca is an example of what happens when there are too many idiots in high places ..... Loss of freedom and taxed to death all to pay for their mistakes ....
Old 09-05-2014, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by HuntO
I recently purchased a Hornblasters Conducters Special kit. I have all of it mounted, i'm just having troubles on the wiring. It says to hook into a 12V source with the compressors power cable, but NOT directly the battery. What options do i have? I'm decent with electrical, but this has me stumped. Looking through others installs too, i cant seem to find any good looks at how the electrical is ran. Anyone got some good pictures to help me out?

This is going on a 04' F150 FX4 Scab (new body style)

Thanks a bunch!

Hunter
To answer your question, you hook up the negative end to the battery, and with the positive you put it through a fuse, I would put it I'm the headlight fuse, then you wire it to a switch. Positive on the on switch and negative to the off one. You can find a easy diagram online if you search for switch relay diagram
Old 09-07-2014, 07:09 PM
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Default Total Current Draw?

At their Website, I'm reading that one 'Hornblasters' Compressor Model draws [up to] ~26 Amps. I kinda doubt there's gonna be ~26 Amps of 'excess' capacity on the Headlight Circuit Fuse. I'm not taking issue directly with juhutt's advice. What I'm instead suggesting is that you start with the proverbial blank Sheet of Paper, and determine which existing Fuse locations you have to pick from.

At least on my STX, there's lotsa 'spare', unused Fuse positions. For example, the Ops Manual lists the optional 120 Volt Power Inverter Fuse [and, thus, Wiring] as being 40 Amp.

This ex-Ham Radio Dude would wire this - or any - Compressor into such a spare Circuit, and fuse it to the value the Manufacturer recommends. Otherwise, a nighttime Horn blast will pop the Fuse, and might extinguish the Headlights.

Result? They're Deaf, and you're Blind.

On my prior SUV, I wired my Trailer Brake Controller directly to the Battery, and put the recommended 30 Amp Automotive Circuit Breaker very close. They're nice in that they reset themselves. RVers love 'em. It was not fused like the Ford nicely is. There were not a lot of 'spares' to pick from.

Last edited by Engineer Guy; 09-07-2014 at 07:27 PM.
Old 10-02-2014, 04:15 AM
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What would happen if i wired it directly to the battery with the fuse between the battery ,and an on-off switch for the compressor? hornblasters gives me plenty of wire to do so, but would this just keep popping fuses?



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