HELP!!! BakFlip G2 (or any folding cover) with bike rack?
07-27-2013, 12:40 AM
#11
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Part 2 (picture limit)
My road race bike with aero bars needed to be on the outside to clear the cab:
Took 5 bikes to the Courage Classic in Copper Mountain, CO with room for 3 more
I used 2 more stake pocket bull rings ($20 at farm & fleet) and bungee cords to keep the bikes centered. They didn't move an inch in 2300 miles of driving.
Took 5 bikes to the Courage Classic in Copper Mountain, CO with room for 3 more
I used 2 more stake pocket bull rings ($20 at farm & fleet) and bungee cords to keep the bikes centered. They didn't move an inch in 2300 miles of driving.
09-02-2013, 09:56 AM
#12
Sorry for the late reply. I just searched yellowpages for metal retail store and found one in my area. They sold all types of metal in every shape and size. Cut to order. Then I painted it myself.
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03-26-2014, 05:28 PM
#13
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Hi Guys,
Great thread. Definitely provided some inspiration. Here's some pics of a modification we did here at the shop. A pretty straight forward installation, looks pretty clean.
- Rhino Rack T-Track; one end is knocked out which allows removal of all hardware
- 2 Yakima Locking Blockheads
- Track mount hardware; bolts and t-track nuts
Great thread. Definitely provided some inspiration. Here's some pics of a modification we did here at the shop. A pretty straight forward installation, looks pretty clean.
- Rhino Rack T-Track; one end is knocked out which allows removal of all hardware
- 2 Yakima Locking Blockheads
- Track mount hardware; bolts and t-track nuts
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thiggins (05-02-2014)
05-02-2014, 07:32 AM
#15
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Thread Starter
Hi Guys,
Great thread. Definitely provided some inspiration. Here's some pics of a modification we did here at the shop. A pretty straight forward installation, looks pretty clean.
- Rhino Rack T-Track; one end is knocked out which allows removal of all hardware
- 2 Yakima Locking Blockheads
- Track mount hardware; bolts and t-track nuts
Great thread. Definitely provided some inspiration. Here's some pics of a modification we did here at the shop. A pretty straight forward installation, looks pretty clean.
- Rhino Rack T-Track; one end is knocked out which allows removal of all hardware
- 2 Yakima Locking Blockheads
- Track mount hardware; bolts and t-track nuts
Do you happen to have a picture of the underside of the bar?
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dcuthill (05-02-2014)
05-03-2014, 06:02 PM
#16
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I don't have a picture of the underside, but it's basically the same kind of track install we would do on a canopy or Jeep top. There's just a row of hand tight nuts like you see here: http://www.cascaderack.com/2014/01/18/rack-installation-2012-jeep-wrangler-unlimited-4-door-yakima/
05-26-2015, 01:38 PM
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That's currently one way to do it. I would worry about the wear on my cover from the back tires. I had the same dilemma. I wanted full use of my bed and i had four bike to haul around. I also had a Yakima roof rack from a previous vehicle and 4 bike stands. I also wanted minimal holes in my rail caps.
I found these Pocket-Lok stake pocket mounts in US (I'm from Canada). Installed them. Yes had to cut rail caps but these will stay on always and can be used for other tie downs when needed.
Attachment 235261
Attachment 235262
This product allowed me to place a standard bolt where the tie down screws into. So i mounted a square tube along both sides with the Yakima mounts attached. This rail is removed in 20 seconds when not in use.
Attachment 235263
Then i replaced my factory Yakima crossbars with wider tubing and painted it. And put the whole roof rack with bike mounts above the tonneau. The whole bike rack comes off together in one piece in seconds and hangs in my garage. Full use of box! I just have to lift rack off if i need to flip my cover. But my kids can craw in there if needed.
Attachment 235264
Attachment 235265
I found these Pocket-Lok stake pocket mounts in US (I'm from Canada). Installed them. Yes had to cut rail caps but these will stay on always and can be used for other tie downs when needed.
Attachment 235261
Attachment 235262
This product allowed me to place a standard bolt where the tie down screws into. So i mounted a square tube along both sides with the Yakima mounts attached. This rail is removed in 20 seconds when not in use.
Attachment 235263
Then i replaced my factory Yakima crossbars with wider tubing and painted it. And put the whole roof rack with bike mounts above the tonneau. The whole bike rack comes off together in one piece in seconds and hangs in my garage. Full use of box! I just have to lift rack off if i need to flip my cover. But my kids can craw in there if needed.
Attachment 235264
Attachment 235265
Size of aluminum tubing? 1.5" square tubing? 2" square tubing?
Pocket lok i have figured out.
Looks like some kind of rubber donut spacer between square tubing and box rail?
What kind of "landing pad" did you "bolt" on to square tubing?
Finally how much space between landing pads?
06-01-2015, 01:00 PM
#19
Junior Member
I had PM'ed Haulkules a while back about further info on his installation. I don't think he will mind if I share the info from his message to me:
It's been awhile since I did the project. The square tubing is 1-1/2" steal with 1/8" wall. Primed and painted with Tremclad. I put "Pocket-Loc" in the bed stake wells which accept a standard 5/16 bolt. Drilled holes in square tube and bolted it down. Square tube was about $40 cut to size at a local metal retailer. They are resting on a combination of metal and rubber washers just to raise them off the bed rail covers and protect the paint of the bars.
Screwed standard Yakima mounts to the square tubes and Yakima towers. I bought the steal round tube from the same place. Same specs as the Yakima crossbars, but a fraction of the price. Again about $40. So $80 for all metal, plus paint, washers, bolts and the Yakima stuff I already had from previous vehicle. Hardest part was lining up the bolts as they didn't go in perfectly straight. Hope this helps. Thule should make a mount. Check naked roof setup. Mine are actually meant for a roof rail system where they compress on factory tracks (GMC Envoy). Mounts had holes so I just screwed them to the square bars.
Hope this helps.
It's been awhile since I did the project. The square tubing is 1-1/2" steal with 1/8" wall. Primed and painted with Tremclad. I put "Pocket-Loc" in the bed stake wells which accept a standard 5/16 bolt. Drilled holes in square tube and bolted it down. Square tube was about $40 cut to size at a local metal retailer. They are resting on a combination of metal and rubber washers just to raise them off the bed rail covers and protect the paint of the bars.
Screwed standard Yakima mounts to the square tubes and Yakima towers. I bought the steal round tube from the same place. Same specs as the Yakima crossbars, but a fraction of the price. Again about $40. So $80 for all metal, plus paint, washers, bolts and the Yakima stuff I already had from previous vehicle. Hardest part was lining up the bolts as they didn't go in perfectly straight. Hope this helps. Thule should make a mount. Check naked roof setup. Mine are actually meant for a roof rail system where they compress on factory tracks (GMC Envoy). Mounts had holes so I just screwed them to the square bars.
Hope this helps.
06-01-2015, 03:58 PM
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I had PM'ed Haulkules a while back about further info on his installation. I don't think he will mind if I share the info from his message to me:
It's been awhile since I did the project. The square tubing is 1-1/2" steal with 1/8" wall. Primed and painted with Tremclad. I put "Pocket-Loc" in the bed stake wells which accept a standard 5/16 bolt. Drilled holes in square tube and bolted it down. Square tube was about $40 cut to size at a local metal retailer. They are resting on a combination of metal and rubber washers just to raise them off the bed rail covers and protect the paint of the bars.
Screwed standard Yakima mounts to the square tubes and Yakima towers. I bought the steal round tube from the same place. Same specs as the Yakima crossbars, but a fraction of the price. Again about $40. So $80 for all metal, plus paint, washers, bolts and the Yakima stuff I already had from previous vehicle. Hardest part was lining up the bolts as they didn't go in perfectly straight. Hope this helps. Thule should make a mount. Check naked roof setup. Mine are actually meant for a roof rail system where they compress on factory tracks (GMC Envoy). Mounts had holes so I just screwed them to the square bars.
Hope this helps.
It's been awhile since I did the project. The square tubing is 1-1/2" steal with 1/8" wall. Primed and painted with Tremclad. I put "Pocket-Loc" in the bed stake wells which accept a standard 5/16 bolt. Drilled holes in square tube and bolted it down. Square tube was about $40 cut to size at a local metal retailer. They are resting on a combination of metal and rubber washers just to raise them off the bed rail covers and protect the paint of the bars.
Screwed standard Yakima mounts to the square tubes and Yakima towers. I bought the steal round tube from the same place. Same specs as the Yakima crossbars, but a fraction of the price. Again about $40. So $80 for all metal, plus paint, washers, bolts and the Yakima stuff I already had from previous vehicle. Hardest part was lining up the bolts as they didn't go in perfectly straight. Hope this helps. Thule should make a mount. Check naked roof setup. Mine are actually meant for a roof rail system where they compress on factory tracks (GMC Envoy). Mounts had holes so I just screwed them to the square bars.
Hope this helps.
I posted in thread because I couldn't post a pic to hawkules in pm.
I'm just starting so I need to get more pieces, like control towers, bars, mounting accessories, and bike stands.
What are you using for bike stands? I was hoping to use the ones with the wheels left on just because of ease and storage requirements.