Preventing Oxidation of the Interior of Aluminum Tool Boxes
#1
Preventing Oxidation of the Interior of Aluminum Tool Boxes
I know this isn't exclusive to F150's per se, but anyone that has had a bare aluminum tool box (non-painted) should know what I'm talking about.
I've googled this topic to death, and there appears to be very little out there that addresses it. So, I've started this thread to see what all steps others have taken to counter the issue AND see what success, over time, you've had with your method. I have already tried something out to counter this on my new F150, and I plan to eventually follow up with how it worked.
I'll preface this with my backstory - I had a Toyota Tacoma from 99 until this past fall (2014), and I bought a UWS tool box for it as soon as I purchased the truck. I put my tools and whatnot inside of it, but after a short while I started noticing a dark blue/black-ish "dust" that was accumulating on my items in there that were exposed to the aluminum surface. It was annoying as it came off on my hands and/or clothes whenever I took the items out to use.
I wound up laying a barrier down in different parts of my toolbox (cardboard in some areas - like the small side tool bays, and then the foamy/spongy sticky stuff that is used on old pantry shelves in others). It did a decent enough job, but didn't completely solve the problem on the sides of the tool box where items touched there.
So, the dust that was coming off onto my items is basically the aluminum equivalent of rust - oxidation of the aluminum surface. There are some extra variables in play as to how much of it occurs, but basically if it's exposed to air, it can oxidize and then rub off on your items.
I asked the guys at the Line-X shop (where I bought my new UWS toolbox - which on a sidebar, I have found to be a dang good box for it's price) what can be done to prevent it. He explained that if I bought a black coated box (which costs a bit more) that I wouldn't have this problem - but I wanted the shiny aluminum one. He then said they could Line-X the interior - but that might cost $75-100. Other than that he offered the idea of clear coating the interior of it.
SOOOOO... what have y'all done to counter this problem?
EDIT: To be clear (since I obviously wasn't) I'm looking for experiences and/or ideas that...
A) do not require professional expertise or machinery.
B) are relatively lower cost (less than $50).
C) are durable (hopefully don't require periodic reapplications).
D) actually keep the aluminum from oxidizing (or, at least keep the powder off your tools/items in the toolbox).
I've googled this topic to death, and there appears to be very little out there that addresses it. So, I've started this thread to see what all steps others have taken to counter the issue AND see what success, over time, you've had with your method. I have already tried something out to counter this on my new F150, and I plan to eventually follow up with how it worked.
I'll preface this with my backstory - I had a Toyota Tacoma from 99 until this past fall (2014), and I bought a UWS tool box for it as soon as I purchased the truck. I put my tools and whatnot inside of it, but after a short while I started noticing a dark blue/black-ish "dust" that was accumulating on my items in there that were exposed to the aluminum surface. It was annoying as it came off on my hands and/or clothes whenever I took the items out to use.
I wound up laying a barrier down in different parts of my toolbox (cardboard in some areas - like the small side tool bays, and then the foamy/spongy sticky stuff that is used on old pantry shelves in others). It did a decent enough job, but didn't completely solve the problem on the sides of the tool box where items touched there.
So, the dust that was coming off onto my items is basically the aluminum equivalent of rust - oxidation of the aluminum surface. There are some extra variables in play as to how much of it occurs, but basically if it's exposed to air, it can oxidize and then rub off on your items.
I asked the guys at the Line-X shop (where I bought my new UWS toolbox - which on a sidebar, I have found to be a dang good box for it's price) what can be done to prevent it. He explained that if I bought a black coated box (which costs a bit more) that I wouldn't have this problem - but I wanted the shiny aluminum one. He then said they could Line-X the interior - but that might cost $75-100. Other than that he offered the idea of clear coating the interior of it.
SOOOOO... what have y'all done to counter this problem?
EDIT: To be clear (since I obviously wasn't) I'm looking for experiences and/or ideas that...
A) do not require professional expertise or machinery.
B) are relatively lower cost (less than $50).
C) are durable (hopefully don't require periodic reapplications).
D) actually keep the aluminum from oxidizing (or, at least keep the powder off your tools/items in the toolbox).
Last edited by aumurph; 01-07-2015 at 09:02 AM.
#2
Senior Member
Clear powdercoat it (inside and out).
.
.
#3
What's that cost? And does it come in a can? What's the prep for an aluminum surface to apply that?
I guess I didn't say it in the OP, but I'm wanting DIY stuff for the Common Joe that is cost efficient.
My method (like I said I'll go over later) cost only $15-16.
I guess I didn't say it in the OP, but I'm wanting DIY stuff for the Common Joe that is cost efficient.
My method (like I said I'll go over later) cost only $15-16.
#4
Senior Member
aumurph - What's that cost? And does it come in a can? What's the prep for an aluminum surface to apply that?
I guess I didn't say it in the OP, but I'm wanting DIY stuff for the Common Joe that is cost efficient.
My method (like I said I'll go over later) cost only $15-16.
I guess I didn't say it in the OP, but I'm wanting DIY stuff for the Common Joe that is cost efficient.
My method (like I said I'll go over later) cost only $15-16.
Would recommend a polish/wax of your choosing that's routinely applied.
.
#5
I have NO experience with powder coating, so I don't know the in's and out's of it. It may be MUCH easier than i know and may not require professional tools. If so, I love the idea.
And don't take my posts as me saying your advice sucks. I'm truly looking for viable options for guys out there (and maybe myself if what I tried didn't work).
Last edited by aumurph; 01-07-2015 at 12:39 PM.
#7
As for my approach...
I firmly wiped down the interior of my new box to try and remove what oxidation I could (there was a little) with a barely damp towel, then ran a dry towel over it and gave it a little time fully to dry.
I then applied a "Rustoleum LeakSeal Clear Spray Rubberized coating" to all interior portions of my box. The stuff says on the label it is made to adhere to aluminum (I assume usually for gutters). I applied 2 more coats allowing it to dry/cure between coats.
It did NOT go on as easy as spray paint, and looks a little cloudy on the aluminum - but I don't care how it looks on the inside. The good thing is it seems like it's made a nice barrier over the aluminum.
So, that leaves time to tell how well the stuff will...
a) stay adhered
b) withstand items in contact rubbing against it over time
c) withstand changing temps (I live in the South, so temp and humidity will definitely test it this summer).
I think the total cost of 2 cans (I used 1-1/2 cans) was $15-20.
I firmly wiped down the interior of my new box to try and remove what oxidation I could (there was a little) with a barely damp towel, then ran a dry towel over it and gave it a little time fully to dry.
I then applied a "Rustoleum LeakSeal Clear Spray Rubberized coating" to all interior portions of my box. The stuff says on the label it is made to adhere to aluminum (I assume usually for gutters). I applied 2 more coats allowing it to dry/cure between coats.
It did NOT go on as easy as spray paint, and looks a little cloudy on the aluminum - but I don't care how it looks on the inside. The good thing is it seems like it's made a nice barrier over the aluminum.
So, that leaves time to tell how well the stuff will...
a) stay adhered
b) withstand items in contact rubbing against it over time
c) withstand changing temps (I live in the South, so temp and humidity will definitely test it this summer).
I think the total cost of 2 cans (I used 1-1/2 cans) was $15-20.
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#8
Oxidation on aluminum (aluminum oxide) is light gray to white in color. It's not like iron oxide (rust) in that aluminum oxide is hard as a rock! So, don't know what the dark powder is but it's probably not from the toolbox corroding.