Boss 302 Intake Install
01-06-2014, 11:14 PM
#12
Senior Member
01-07-2014, 08:49 AM
#13
Senior Member
01-07-2014, 04:17 PM
#14
Short preview
Hey guys,
I apologize for the delay!!! I've been totally buried at work!! Im off tomorrow so i will take the pics then. But for now here is a little preview of some of the obstacles and difficulties i had on my install.
The video above is the one i watched several times before doing install, but there were a couple things i encountered that the video or instructions, which came with the Boss, didn't mention. I purchased the Boss Intake/CAI/2 Tune package fro 5 Star Tune. The 5 Star kit came with all hoses and clamps necessary for the installation. However i did choose to purchase a 2 foot length of "fuel injection line" from my local auto parts store for the purge valve vacuum connection. Because the line is routed close to the engine block, I figured the fuel ingestion line could take the heat better. Also, I purchased an extra vacuum line to replace the stock "bent" vacuum line that attaches on the intake next to the purge valve line. I didn't like how the stock "bent" line positioned the other vacuum lines.
Rather than detail the entire install, i'll just emphasize some areas in the video fill in the areas the video above and mikes instructions left out.
*Be careful when disconnecting the fuel line securing clip. I broke mine. Watch the video for that.
*When removing the stock intake, the wire harness clips connected to back of the intake is a b***h to pop off. Before I installed the Boss, I put about 4 zip ties on the harness to help keep it securely suspended above the engine block.
*I didn't have to flatten the tabs on the firewall above the intake, but i did have to remove the insulation and the boss cover that is taped on. You can purchase the 3M double sided tape at most auto part stores. You'll need to get some to reattach the cover.
*Also, the back 2 bolts on the intake will keep sliding down and catching on the air intake holes. While trying to hold them up, I accidentally pulled one out. That was cool, because I pulled the other one out and then didn't have deal holding them up. It slid right in!!!!
*When I help my neighbor do his install, we are going to drain the coolant fluid. When trying to fit the Boss in place, I couldn't get it pass the passengers side engine block coolant tube, just forward of the passenger side front air intake hole. When I removed the tube, coolant kept coming out and running into the air intake holes. I stuffed a clean "t-shirt rag" in the hole to slow what was coming out, but it didn't completely stop it.
*Now for the Check Engine Light. When i was connecting the Purge Valve Vacuum Line, I was confused about what to do with the Purge Valve Electrical Connection. I am not a mechanic, and BECAUSE THE INSTRUCTION OR VIDEO DID NOT SPECIFICALLY MENTION removing the Purge Valve from the stock intake, I assumed it was not used with the Boss intake. I zip tied the electrical connection up out of the way. This is what caused my CEL. A guy at my local auto parts store helped me figure out I probably needed to remove the Purge Valve from the stock intake. After installing it, I cleared the cel and it hasn't come on again. Right now I have Purge Valve sitting on top of the intake. Tomorrow, when I take the pics, Im going to move it under the intake. That is where mike put his. I realized thats where he put it when I went back and looked at his post on another forum. There are pics that of HIS initial install of the Boss intake when he did his back in 2010 or 2011. Its really hard to see though. Only one picture shows it and I had to save it to my computer so I could enlarge it big enough to see. You can barely see it. I'll paste that pic tomorrow too. He zip tied it to something under the throttle body. When you install the Purge Valve, do it before installing the throttle body and CAI elbow and tube. Im gonna need to remove mine to get under there. Also, after searching the forums, I found some good pics and description of a mustang Boss install. Gave me some ideas how to relocate the purge valve rather than letting hang zip tied under the throttle body. Side note: the vacuum line that runs along the fuel line on the drivers side of the engine is rigid with permanent bends at the end that connects to the purge valve, so its only going to fit in a specific position under the throttle body because the electrical connection the Purge Valve is not long enough to give you many options. When I do the relocate for the valve, I will have to add some length to that electrical line.
Ok… How does it drive now?!!! At first I wasn't impressed with performance and the air noise from the Boss and CAI was REALLY loud!!! I felt like I had lost power from dead start or "dig" and the throttle response felt sluggish at city speeds (25-45mph). I'd also never seen a CAI that was completely covered, so I thought maybe that was the problem. Removed it and the air noise was even louder!! Called AFE and the guy there suggested the custom tunes were probably written with cover "ON", so I put the cover back on.
Now the good news…. I read somewhere that the computer needs time to learn any changes made to the engine. It's been 4 days since I've done the install. I guess my truck is a quick learner!! Haha!! Or maybe I hit that magic milage that it needed to go through whatever "cycle" it needed… But yesterday, the truck just seemed to have a little more power every time I drove somewhere. I believe its finally getting quicker on the start than it was with only the tune. It still seems slower in the mid RPM range, but Holy Crap its a rocket when you do a WOT punch from a dig and on the Hwy. I don't abuse my machines and I'm not a speed freak maniac on the hwy, but i didn want to see what it could do. Yesterday i had an open deserted area on the hwy… the thang accelerated so fast to 100 mph it was almost scary. When I hit 100 it was still accelerating like a homesick angle and that was fast enough for me!!!
Hope this helps!!!
I apologize for the delay!!! I've been totally buried at work!! Im off tomorrow so i will take the pics then. But for now here is a little preview of some of the obstacles and difficulties i had on my install.
The video above is the one i watched several times before doing install, but there were a couple things i encountered that the video or instructions, which came with the Boss, didn't mention. I purchased the Boss Intake/CAI/2 Tune package fro 5 Star Tune. The 5 Star kit came with all hoses and clamps necessary for the installation. However i did choose to purchase a 2 foot length of "fuel injection line" from my local auto parts store for the purge valve vacuum connection. Because the line is routed close to the engine block, I figured the fuel ingestion line could take the heat better. Also, I purchased an extra vacuum line to replace the stock "bent" vacuum line that attaches on the intake next to the purge valve line. I didn't like how the stock "bent" line positioned the other vacuum lines.
Rather than detail the entire install, i'll just emphasize some areas in the video fill in the areas the video above and mikes instructions left out.
*Be careful when disconnecting the fuel line securing clip. I broke mine. Watch the video for that.
*When removing the stock intake, the wire harness clips connected to back of the intake is a b***h to pop off. Before I installed the Boss, I put about 4 zip ties on the harness to help keep it securely suspended above the engine block.
*I didn't have to flatten the tabs on the firewall above the intake, but i did have to remove the insulation and the boss cover that is taped on. You can purchase the 3M double sided tape at most auto part stores. You'll need to get some to reattach the cover.
*Also, the back 2 bolts on the intake will keep sliding down and catching on the air intake holes. While trying to hold them up, I accidentally pulled one out. That was cool, because I pulled the other one out and then didn't have deal holding them up. It slid right in!!!!
*When I help my neighbor do his install, we are going to drain the coolant fluid. When trying to fit the Boss in place, I couldn't get it pass the passengers side engine block coolant tube, just forward of the passenger side front air intake hole. When I removed the tube, coolant kept coming out and running into the air intake holes. I stuffed a clean "t-shirt rag" in the hole to slow what was coming out, but it didn't completely stop it.
*Now for the Check Engine Light. When i was connecting the Purge Valve Vacuum Line, I was confused about what to do with the Purge Valve Electrical Connection. I am not a mechanic, and BECAUSE THE INSTRUCTION OR VIDEO DID NOT SPECIFICALLY MENTION removing the Purge Valve from the stock intake, I assumed it was not used with the Boss intake. I zip tied the electrical connection up out of the way. This is what caused my CEL. A guy at my local auto parts store helped me figure out I probably needed to remove the Purge Valve from the stock intake. After installing it, I cleared the cel and it hasn't come on again. Right now I have Purge Valve sitting on top of the intake. Tomorrow, when I take the pics, Im going to move it under the intake. That is where mike put his. I realized thats where he put it when I went back and looked at his post on another forum. There are pics that of HIS initial install of the Boss intake when he did his back in 2010 or 2011. Its really hard to see though. Only one picture shows it and I had to save it to my computer so I could enlarge it big enough to see. You can barely see it. I'll paste that pic tomorrow too. He zip tied it to something under the throttle body. When you install the Purge Valve, do it before installing the throttle body and CAI elbow and tube. Im gonna need to remove mine to get under there. Also, after searching the forums, I found some good pics and description of a mustang Boss install. Gave me some ideas how to relocate the purge valve rather than letting hang zip tied under the throttle body. Side note: the vacuum line that runs along the fuel line on the drivers side of the engine is rigid with permanent bends at the end that connects to the purge valve, so its only going to fit in a specific position under the throttle body because the electrical connection the Purge Valve is not long enough to give you many options. When I do the relocate for the valve, I will have to add some length to that electrical line.
Ok… How does it drive now?!!! At first I wasn't impressed with performance and the air noise from the Boss and CAI was REALLY loud!!! I felt like I had lost power from dead start or "dig" and the throttle response felt sluggish at city speeds (25-45mph). I'd also never seen a CAI that was completely covered, so I thought maybe that was the problem. Removed it and the air noise was even louder!! Called AFE and the guy there suggested the custom tunes were probably written with cover "ON", so I put the cover back on.
Now the good news…. I read somewhere that the computer needs time to learn any changes made to the engine. It's been 4 days since I've done the install. I guess my truck is a quick learner!! Haha!! Or maybe I hit that magic milage that it needed to go through whatever "cycle" it needed… But yesterday, the truck just seemed to have a little more power every time I drove somewhere. I believe its finally getting quicker on the start than it was with only the tune. It still seems slower in the mid RPM range, but Holy Crap its a rocket when you do a WOT punch from a dig and on the Hwy. I don't abuse my machines and I'm not a speed freak maniac on the hwy, but i didn want to see what it could do. Yesterday i had an open deserted area on the hwy… the thang accelerated so fast to 100 mph it was almost scary. When I hit 100 it was still accelerating like a homesick angle and that was fast enough for me!!!
Hope this helps!!!
The following 2 users liked this post by rrbb99:
HawaiiKid (01-08-2014),
s.whiplash (01-10-2014)
01-09-2014, 07:33 PM
#17
Had the Purge Valve above the Throttle Body before moving it here, below the Throttle Body. It was pretty easy after removing the CAI tube and Throttle Body. Ended up using a Break Fluid hose because the thickness seemed to prevent it from kinking with such a sharp bend....
The following users liked this post:
s.whiplash (01-10-2014)
04-05-2014, 04:44 PM
#20
theone201,
It ran ok… But it felt like I lost some TQ from a dig. So I took it to a local race shop and they put it on the dyno. They did a new tune from scratch. It really made a difference, but the guy that did the tuning (the owner), and all his techs agreed, said if I reinstall the stock intake, I will make more TQ than with the Boss.
I am in no way knocking 5 Star Tune. Great customer service and great product. But you just can't beat putting your truck on a Dyno to get a truly custom tune. 1st chance I get, I'm reinstalling the stock intake manifold and getting it re-tuned. I'll post an update after its done. It will be around the end of may before I have the time.
It ran ok… But it felt like I lost some TQ from a dig. So I took it to a local race shop and they put it on the dyno. They did a new tune from scratch. It really made a difference, but the guy that did the tuning (the owner), and all his techs agreed, said if I reinstall the stock intake, I will make more TQ than with the Boss.
I am in no way knocking 5 Star Tune. Great customer service and great product. But you just can't beat putting your truck on a Dyno to get a truly custom tune. 1st chance I get, I'm reinstalling the stock intake manifold and getting it re-tuned. I'll post an update after its done. It will be around the end of may before I have the time.