You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Your thrust washers broke apart or just slipped out of the groove?? Did the groove look worn?
Did you happen to see a lot of sludge in the heads preventing the oil from returning to the pan efficiently?
It sounds like your engine was either running on low oil or you had a lot of debris clogging the paths back to the pan...
The 5.4 3v auto have a common issue with the crank "walking" back and forth. I have about 140,000 miles on my 06, i bought it used in March of 08 with 29,700 on the clock. Kept regular oil changes and maintance on the truck, never overloaded it and its never been over heated. My issue is i was running castrol 5w20 in it instead of the ford 5w20. One of the reasons they say to run the ford or amsoil is because it contains Lanolin (probobly typed that wrong sorry). Most oils dont contain it, its one of the reasons you can run Amsoil so long. The newer mod motors have such tight clearences and passages (like in the cam phasers) that regular oil tends to gum up and cause issues. My thrust washers simply got worn out from the front to back rock of the crank they eventually fell out into the pan. The crank was free to move more now, cutting a grove into the back of the oil pump and thus no oil pressure. Yes everything was checked before reassembly, crank luckly sustained no damage, all journals and such were fine. I replaced all the bearings since i was already that far down and flushed the block and heads. We see this at work more then you can imagin as these trucks get up in mileage. From now on im only running the factory ford oil and keeping a closer eye on things.
The bits in the oil pan were from the upper chain guard shattering. The pieces ranged for about 1/2 inch to 2 inches in length. The chains are slacking and tightening within one rotation on the crank. I did not change any valves nor did I see any or I Probley would have. Where are they located? I will try to get pics up ASAP. Just been busy at work! Thanks again guys!
Just wanted to add an update to my efforts here. The truck is running fine with no deiseling now off idle. No leaks or bad performance and the truck feels like it has more power now.
One thing I did notice is the fan clutch is being a bit fickle. Might of loosened a wire in a connector somehow because the clutch is intermittent. Not a big deal but they are going for roughly $200 ish.
I am noticing a light ticking on the passenger bank on initial start up but goes away after a few seconds of running. When I had the valve covers off, all appeared to be ok. Will look at this further.
I also notice a little rough idle but its been that way for years now. Will check oil pressure and all to see where that is.
To be quite honest, this truck has been great for me. Its an 07 and is over 148,000 miles. The biggest challenge I had besides the phasers was changing the bastard spark plugs. Only broke 1 and it happened to be the drivers side aft plug, a week before I moved from West Virginia to Arizona. After multiple attempts (and a few beers to calm me down) I was successful with using the broken plug removal tool.
Mine is a 2010 w the 5.4, 13,500 miles, it goes in monday for cam phasers that have gone "bad"....
I'm pretty sure based on my research this is the same issue I have. My appointment is in two days.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sabio
Mine is a 2010 FX4. When it started to tick, it was very light noise, about 7000miles.
I was told they run the tolerances loose on these new trucks.
15,000 miles and the noise is louder...I complain about the ticking at all temps and all speeds. They find nothing.
20,000 miles and I hear the ticking/rattling all the time, even driving at 50mp/h.
I got the, 'It's the injectors' or 'it's normal, it is the cam adjusters' speech.
This noise is NOT normal. How can a ticking noise loud enough to hear inside your cab at all speed even driving on the highway be called normal.
pisses me off
Up here in Canada Eh! Some dealers are telling and using Lucas Oil products to make things a little quiet for the customer.
I'm in Calgary, and I'm hoping my dealer is going to do the right thing. I've got a 2010 XLT with 5yr extended warranty.
The video posted on a few pages back is far more severe than what I'm experiancing, but the noise is the same.
Hello there Johnny, I have replaced everything you have and a little more. My phasers i dont beleive is bad because i dont have the rapping in it and also the codes are not showing up on mine any more. the only problem i am having now is that i have low idle in gear and it stalls out as soon as you put it in drive. what i have found out is threw all the bs is that when it ran like crap and thought it was the cam phasers going bad and misfiring it caused my right side cat to break up in to dust in the front half of the cat and plugged up the back half of the cat, so i had a notion one day at work to come home and pull out the o2 senser and a cloud of dust no lie a cloud came out. also i was getting so much back pressure when i took off the oil filler cap it about blew it out of my hand. So i took for a test drive loud as hell but no codes or miss fires, so i replaced that cat and drove it then it started not idling and coasting to a stop or at a stop. Now it still sits as it has for 8 months and i wound up replacing a vaccum line and the intake gaskets to no reval to solve the idling issue but will idle in park as like it was never broke. I am sorry for the long story but wanted to tell you everything i have done, i hope i have shed some light on the subject.
I had a very similar issue with my 5.2 dodge ram... I thought it was my plenum gasket but that didn't get it... I put a new timing chain in it and that didn't help either. I ended up plugging one of the vaccum lines on the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure sensor) and that fixed it... After this I re-ran all of my vaccum lines and replaced the MAP sensor and it fixed it perfectly... The same situation as yours. You may want check the entire Vaccum system for leaks and maybe even consider cleaning or replacing the MAF sensor since you don't have a MAP sensor on this motor. Vac lines become brittle over time and can be prone to breaking and cracking.
Hey Heres a story for everyone! I bought a 04 F-150 at an action sale with 200 000 k on it in nice shape it ran good. After driving it abit and changing oil , I noticed the Oil lid had a white film on it and if I cleaned it and drove it again it would come back. So one day after driving to town it started vibrating teribly and shut down. It started up right again and it did it every now and then when the moter was warm and it was idling. We took it do a dealer and when the ripped the engine apart they said it was the dirtiest engine they had ever worked on, and they said it was the cam phasers that were shot. They replaced them and it did not help so they put the old ones back in and I have been driving it since. After I got it back I ran an engine flush to try and get rid of some of the grime and it hasnt done it since. Im going to try a deisel flush next. But after I saw those pictures I thought maybe the holes were clogged with sludge. just a thought let me know what you think!!
I'm curious to know what you used to flush the engine? I seem to have the same phaser problem and when I change the oil, this noise seems to go away for a period of time. I'd like to fllush the engine to see if that helps clean it out,
Hello all, been reading on the cam phaser issues. I just traded in to get 04 F150 FX4 that after getting home noticed the ticking. I took it back to the dealer, a chevy dealer mind you, and they are replacing all the valves (24) to fix the problem. I told them about the info I read on this site about cam phasers but they think valves, however, if the new valves doesnt fix it they are going to do the cam phasers. I told them I didnt want it back until it was right. They agreed and it will be on there dime. So I will let everyone know if the valve change assist in a complete fix, or if phasers have to be done, but hopefully between both it will take care of the problem.
I had a noise in the front end that a ford dealer in Michigan called a cam phaser issue. The more I read about this issue the more I doubted their diagnosis. Turned out to really be an exhaust leak. Glad I didn't jump into the phaser repair.
Linear Mode
