waitingformiracle

Okay, I'm stumped. Check engine light comes on showing code for camshaft position sensor. Truck starts rough and idles a little rough but overall it runs great still.

All sensors have ben checked and and are working properly. Main computer just replaced and reprogramed and now the same code os being thrown. What else could be causing the cam shaft position code (bank 2)??

vlqubed

Have you discovered what causes the CEL to be on.
Mine just came on with the bank2 Camshaft position sensor as well.
I was going to swap the sensors between the banks to see if the problem moves.

Cheers.
V.

azmidget91

just replace the cam sensors. they are like $5 and bolted to the front of the head with 1 bolt. takes literally 2 minutes to change both of them

croquet

Working with the same problem here...Check engine light came on for the camshaft position code Bank 2. I disconnected the battery cable, cleaned the terminals, then reconnected the battery cables to go buy sensors. Now the light is out? Why?

MattFrank

I'm having the same code come up. P0345. I'm going to try replacing both camshaft position sensors since they're only about $25 each. After that we'll see. My Ford mechanic (and lifelong friend since we were 3) thinks that replacing the VCT solenoids because apparently that's the common issue on the 5.4L's.

After I did some research I found one guy who kept getting the code after fixing everything else. He took out the cam phaser and set it back by one tooth, thus the misfiring stopped. His CMP2 was firing just a bit earlier than CMP1 and restarting it by one tooth realigned it. Figure I'd add that just in case someone was having the problem and couldn't think of what to try next. But that's literally a last resort option.

2005 Ford F150 SuperCab XLT 5.4L V8

Hal W

Guys, I just went through the cam senor error codes problem myself (2005 F-150 5.4 3V V8 155,000 miles FX4). Truck didn't have much power, surging power at 60mph, hesitation, terrible banging noise, herkie/jerky at cruising speed. While parked, it would begin sounding like a diesel while revving down from 2000 rpm. I went through everything everyone else already has. Fuses, wire voltage, new sensors etc etc etc. I priced out a new engine (didn't like that option), priced out parts & labor to fix the cam phasers/chain etc... the whole nine. In the diagnosis process, I too, noticed that when the bank 2 sensor was unplugged, it seemed to run normal but my research tells me to believe thats because the cam phaser is defaulted and kills gas mileage. I took someone's advice to change to a thicker oil and run till it blows assuming it must have had an oil pressure issue/leak. I chose 5W-40 from the 5W-20 that the oil cap calls for, and in the process of changing it out, I realized THERE WAS ONLY ONE QUART OF OIL LEFT IN THE ENGINE TO BEGIN WITH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

Filled it full of oil and man all my clacking/tapping/surging/banging/codes have all been solved. She runs like a charm again (and SOOO QUIET TOO - NEARLY SILENT).... F. M. L. ! Somehow the engine lost 5 quarts of oil? (calls for 6.1).. No spots on the driveway at all and no reason to believe it's burning it. I'm blaming the idiots at the oil change place.

CHECK THE OIL LEVEL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Without OIL, of course the CAM PHASER can't work. Now... just waiting for the forehead bruises to heal and patch the holes in the drywall.

I want to thank everyone else on these forums who have contributed their time and efforts to helping the rest of us. I spent all weekend researching all of this hoping for a solution and learning all the parts at play. I hope that maybe my response here can save someone from a new engine. Check the oil. Seriously.

Kruffy_Dawwdy

what if and i mean… humor me, what if the 5w 40 was the fix and Oil level wasnt it because i only assume… you used the 5w 40 you spent money on to fill up… soo what do you think, think the 5 40 had a role in the fix