Assistance with Rear Lowering Leaf Springs and Auto Load Leveling
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
OK, I went back and took a look at this from a different angle with the help of a friend . . .
The clearance between the bottom of the axle and the vehicle remains the same--what is changing is the amount the frame rail is moved in relation to the ground, regardless of how it is obtained.
Let's say you install a flip kit, and for argument's sake, the thickness of the leaf spring is 2", the axle tube is 3.5", the cradle the axle tube rides in is 1/2" and you are using a 1" shackle.
When you use the flip kit, you move the frame rail down by moving the axle tube closer; the centerline of the axle is 2" (thickness of the spring) + 1.75" (1/2 of the diameter of the axle tube) + .5" (cradle holding the axle tube) + 1" (lowering shackle), for a total of 5.25"
When you use a 4" lowering spring and a 1" lowering shackle, the frame rail is moved down the 4" of the spring and the 1" for the shackle, for a total of 5" . . . either way, the distance between the frame rail and the axle tube is nearly identical, due to this . . .
So--with that in mind, it looks like I'll be going with a Flip Kit on the rear after all . . .
The clearance between the bottom of the axle and the vehicle remains the same--what is changing is the amount the frame rail is moved in relation to the ground, regardless of how it is obtained.
Let's say you install a flip kit, and for argument's sake, the thickness of the leaf spring is 2", the axle tube is 3.5", the cradle the axle tube rides in is 1/2" and you are using a 1" shackle.
When you use the flip kit, you move the frame rail down by moving the axle tube closer; the centerline of the axle is 2" (thickness of the spring) + 1.75" (1/2 of the diameter of the axle tube) + .5" (cradle holding the axle tube) + 1" (lowering shackle), for a total of 5.25"
When you use a 4" lowering spring and a 1" lowering shackle, the frame rail is moved down the 4" of the spring and the 1" for the shackle, for a total of 5" . . . either way, the distance between the frame rail and the axle tube is nearly identical, due to this . . .
So--with that in mind, it looks like I'll be going with a Flip Kit on the rear after all . . .
Last edited by stonecoldtx; 09-15-2013 at 11:23 AM. Reason: More information
#22
OK, I went back and took a look at this from a different angle with the help of a friend . . .
The clearance between the bottom of the axle and the vehicle remains the same--what is changing is the amount the frame rail is moved in relation to the ground, regardless of how it is obtained.
Let's say you install a flip kit, and for argument's sake, the thickness of the leaf spring is 2", the axle tube is 3.5", the cradle the axle tube rides in is 1/2" and you are using a 1" shackle.
When you use the flip kit, you move the frame rail down by moving the axle tube closer; the centerline of the axle is 2" (thickness of the spring) + 1.75" (1/2 of the diameter of the axle tube) + .5" (cradle holding the axle tube) + 1" (lowering shackle), for a total of 5.25"
When you use a 4" lowering spring and a 1" lowering shackle, the frame rail is moved down the 4" of the spring and the 1" for the shackle, for a total of 5" . . . either way, the distance between the frame rail and the axle tube is nearly identical, due to this . . .
So--with that in mind, it looks like I'll be going with a Flip Kit on the rear after all . . .
The clearance between the bottom of the axle and the vehicle remains the same--what is changing is the amount the frame rail is moved in relation to the ground, regardless of how it is obtained.
Let's say you install a flip kit, and for argument's sake, the thickness of the leaf spring is 2", the axle tube is 3.5", the cradle the axle tube rides in is 1/2" and you are using a 1" shackle.
When you use the flip kit, you move the frame rail down by moving the axle tube closer; the centerline of the axle is 2" (thickness of the spring) + 1.75" (1/2 of the diameter of the axle tube) + .5" (cradle holding the axle tube) + 1" (lowering shackle), for a total of 5.25"
When you use a 4" lowering spring and a 1" lowering shackle, the frame rail is moved down the 4" of the spring and the 1" for the shackle, for a total of 5" . . . either way, the distance between the frame rail and the axle tube is nearly identical, due to this . . .
So--with that in mind, it looks like I'll be going with a Flip Kit on the rear after all . . .
What made you decide on the Flip if there the same , Cost ?
#23
Senior Member
Thread Starter
No, I didn't mind paying the extra amount (it was considerable--the Belltech Flip Kit was about half the price of the Ground Force kit), but with the Ground Force lowering springs, apparently there is a far stiffer ride . . . if I can maintain the same ride quality as what I have now, I'd prefer to go that route . . .
The main reason I was leaning that direction in the first place was because I thought it gave a lower ride stance without having reduced clearance, but that was incorrect; if there is no difference in the clearance, and the springs are both more expensive, and more importantly, give a stiffer ride, I'll stick with the better ride quality.
The main reason I was leaning that direction in the first place was because I thought it gave a lower ride stance without having reduced clearance, but that was incorrect; if there is no difference in the clearance, and the springs are both more expensive, and more importantly, give a stiffer ride, I'll stick with the better ride quality.
#24
No, I didn't mind paying the extra amount (it was considerable--the Belltech Flip Kit was about half the price of the Ground Force kit), but with the Ground Force lowering springs, apparently there is a far stiffer ride . . . if I can maintain the same ride quality as what I have now, I'd prefer to go that route . . .
The main reason I was leaning that direction in the first place was because I thought it gave a lower ride stance without having reduced clearance, but that was incorrect; if there is no difference in the clearance, and the springs are both more expensive, and more importantly, give a stiffer ride, I'll stick with the better ride quality.
The main reason I was leaning that direction in the first place was because I thought it gave a lower ride stance without having reduced clearance, but that was incorrect; if there is no difference in the clearance, and the springs are both more expensive, and more importantly, give a stiffer ride, I'll stick with the better ride quality.
Ok I hear ya, Ive been on the fence myself with the leafs. Remember my 1st reply to your thread.. (Everyone has different opinions). Now I Haven't had the leafs put in yet But ive had 2 other trucks dropped with the Flip kit & i don't care what anybody says, it is Not the same ride as stock. It will Never feel like that again after you lower it. Just keep that in mind because lowering it is just that & your ride will show it. My Lightning & My Harley F150 where done correctly with flip kits. The only time they felt like stock was on a Brand new paved highway. Lol.... But its all Worth the sacrifice to me because I love my trucks Lowered. Im sure if a Country Boy took a ride in it he would say " Well that just Aint no good right there. Hahaha
Last edited by CALM Trucking; 09-16-2013 at 07:31 AM.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
OK, got the Belltech Lowering kit installed yesterday by a shop near my office (I would have done it myself but I don't have room in either of my two garages!); I purchased the Belltech 972SP kit, which includes the front lowering struts, rear flip kit that includes shocks, and all the assorted hardware necessary to lower the truck.
Here is what she looks like now:
Here is what she looks like now:
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JJ0805 (12-24-2014)
#26
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
OK, got the Belltech Lowering kit installed yesterday by a shop near my office (I would have done it myself but I don't have room in either of my two garages!); I purchased the Belltech 972SP kit, which includes the front lowering struts, rear flip kit that includes shocks, and all the assorted hardware necessary to lower the truck.
Here is what she looks like now:
Here is what she looks like now:
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I've only driven it about 30 miles so far, mostly highway miles, but I paid extra attention to the ride before taking it in to the shop, and again after picking it up--so far, I don't notice much difference . . .
However--the shop did point out to me that the center crossmember hangs WAAY low--it looks to be lower than the running boards, so I'll have to be pretty careful around speedbumps . . . wasn't expecting this!
However--the shop did point out to me that the center crossmember hangs WAAY low--it looks to be lower than the running boards, so I'll have to be pretty careful around speedbumps . . . wasn't expecting this!