kpredden68

Yes I will be doing that I had an 03 Super Crew with a 4/5 didn't hv to notch I've had an 09 chevy crew cab with a 6/8 with a notch haven't done a new body ford love the truck just sits way to high for me and I'm just don't know what tire combo to use I like the rack look

aregis30

looking for a bumper cover or aftermarket air dam 2013 ford f50 stx

maxpat82

On the stock 20", you 'll have to notch the rear and bed and move up/redo the front inner fender. if you want to keep a minimum of suspension travel so it doesn't rub or bottom out at every bump in the road.
On a front 3" drop the inners are 2" from the tire on my 07 fx2 Scab.
On a front 3" the engine crossmember and LCA mount is ~6" from the ground.

Ford are far from been easy to drop the front as a chevy.
I'm in the process to laying the frame on mine and the front is a PITA to setup right.

Aussief150

I'm looking to lower my91 f150 long bed. I also want to run 22" wheels. What would be my best option to get it lower and handling well. I carry dirt bikes and its my daily driver.
I know your probably thinking why bother on an old rig like this, but I just love the shape and the size of it compared to all the other trucks here in Australia.
My budget is flexable depending on what sort of results I can get. Thanks

NORCAL SS

good talking to you I have to finish up a tahoe today but will send you a paypal bill tonight on the 3/5 kit we spoke about. Thanks again.

Grasshopper209

I have a steering related question as it applies to lowered trucks. In order to be clear, this might get a little long, so I apologize up front. 2008 Screw FX2, building my version of Shelby's SuperSnake F150. I went a different route with the lowering, I'm running RideTech air suspension all around. The front at ride height was too low to get the alignment adjusted properly, not enough adjustment travel in the lower control arms. I opened up the adjustment holes, but still no joy. Even though DJM says their lower control arms are not to be used with airbags, I used them anyway. The Ridetech front bags at the lower mounting point are the same dimension as the stock struts, so they fit perfectly. I was finally able to align the camber properly, but in order to get the toe I had to cut the tie rods. The alignment is perfect, but something is off, as I no longer have a full turning radius. Not a problem while driving, but a PIA when trying to maneuver around a parking lot or make a u-turn. Any suggestions?

NORCAL SS

how much of the tie rod did you cut? how low is your truck at ride height like 3 inch drop?

maxpat82

Just with the control arm: You loose turning radius.
Tire hit the LCA, thus reducing turning radius.
With the DJM arm you need to cut the tie rod(inner and outer) about ,5"...that's totally normal. But you don't need to elongate LCA mounting hole.

How lowis you ride height? (engine crossmember to the ground?)

Grasshopper209

we cut an inch and a half off both sides to get the toe back into spec. The truck is low... crossmember is only 3" off the ground. I'll post a pic as soon as I figure out how...

Grasshopper209