3in DJM LCA's back to factory LCA's, is it just a swap or....
11-11-2014, 06:03 PM
#1
Cant Stop Wont Stop
Thread Starter
3in DJM LCA's back to factory LCA's, is it just a swap or....
Do the specs change any? Right now I'm at 4.5in drop by way of DJM 3in LCA's, BellTech 3in lowering springs (no spacer), and BellTechs drop struts with all rings on plus extra so it's set at a 2in lift giving me 4.5in.
When I installed the lca's I had to trim the tie rods and extend the alignment holes. My question is do I need new tie rods and where do I set bolts on alignment holes? I am hoping I can get back the look I used to have where the tire would stick out just a bit. They totally sunk in after the lca's.
I have a set of factory arms and am going for a 3in drop.
When I installed the lca's I had to trim the tie rods and extend the alignment holes. My question is do I need new tie rods and where do I set bolts on alignment holes? I am hoping I can get back the look I used to have where the tire would stick out just a bit. They totally sunk in after the lca's.
I have a set of factory arms and am going for a 3in drop.
11-13-2014, 04:44 PM
#3
Well if my math is correct 3+3-2=4 just to start. As far as tie rods go it says you have 60,000 miles, so your tie rods should still be good. However they are relatively cheap and if you have an issue in a few thousand miles you'll need to have truck apart again, new tie rods, and then realigned . I don't know about you but for an extra $100 or so it's not worth my time to do something that I could have fixed earlier. Any time I tear apart a front suspension I always put the bolts back to the marks on the arms from the original install.
11-13-2014, 08:31 PM
#4
Cant Stop Wont Stop
Thread Starter
Well if my math is correct 3+3-2=4 just to start. As far as tie rods go it says you have 60,000 miles, so your tie rods should still be good. However they are relatively cheap and if you have an issue in a few thousand miles you'll need to have truck apart again, new tie rods, and then realigned . I don't know about you but for an extra $100 or so it's not worth my time to do something that I could have fixed earlier. Any time I tear apart a front suspension I always put the bolts back to the marks on the arms from the original install.
As far as the alignment holes placement, I'm not sure I'll be able to find where the original marks were now that I'll be putting in factory arms.
I'm learning as I go/install that's why I'm here asking questions.
11-14-2014, 06:06 PM
#5
Well your trucks going to have to be realigned so I'd just set the it to the middle of the hole on the arm. Assuming you can get it to a relatively close shop you shouldn't have to worry much about where you get them. As long as it's drivable make a direct trip to alignment shop and let them dial it all in for you. I hate to say it but tires plus by me does a good job aligning lowered vehicles. They have done my bagged ranger atleast 5 times. You can get an alignment for around $70 or for around $100 you can get a lifetime package. When doing custom suspension stuff that's the only way to go. You can take it back as many times as you want while you own the vehicle. My ranger was done the first time back in 2004. Still get free alignments. My f150 is the same way.
11-17-2014, 11:17 AM
#6
Senior Member
^^everything as been said.
set to middle, and you'll need an alignment for sure.
your current tie-rod end should work, but there won't be as many thread as a new stock one.
For the low price they are: just get new one and install them while being there.
set to middle, and you'll need an alignment for sure.
your current tie-rod end should work, but there won't be as many thread as a new stock one.
For the low price they are: just get new one and install them while being there.
11-20-2014, 02:41 PM
#7
Cant Stop Wont Stop
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. I've been slowly working on this project thru the week. Still not done. I'll post up pics/progress on my drop thread.
I finished the passenger side but had pulled the arm's alignment bolts all the way towards the outside and I guess cuz the outer tie rods have been cut it angled the tire towards the inside. I like the look of how the tire isn't so tucked in so I'm hoping new outer tie rods will help. Like I said, I'm learning as I go.
I finished the passenger side but had pulled the arm's alignment bolts all the way towards the outside and I guess cuz the outer tie rods have been cut it angled the tire towards the inside. I like the look of how the tire isn't so tucked in so I'm hoping new outer tie rods will help. Like I said, I'm learning as I go.
