Will it work??
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
That's what I was worried about at first, - figured I'd get it tuned if I lost any. Luckily I got more out of it with just the factory tune. I welded the cats right to the headers, - from Troyer 3x2.5 converters, -reduces at the rear. Great low end, better than factory that's for sure. The entire system is balanced, - no non fowlers and no harness extensions, no tune adjustments. It's my favorite mod, picked up 6 seconds, - on vidjeo.
But yea, you can screw all that up if the back half of your system isn't set up right.
You can get the OBX in 3" now as well.
But yea, you can screw all that up if the back half of your system isn't set up right.
You can get the OBX in 3" now as well.
#32
Senior Member
Can you get the vids working at the site ? This one, -
https://plus.google.com/photos/10028...ums?banner=pwa
I can get a few to work, -like my port and polish vid, but that's it so far.
#33
Senior Member
Anyway, you can change the cat flanges fairly easily. Once you cut the weld, the insert pulls out leaving you exact amount of room for a 3" ID flange. They were purposely made this way for a slip fit 3" collector. The opening is 3 and 1/8". Back then, I ordered 2.5" x 2.5". 3" was indeed available at the time, but I put my order in too soon, before I had it figured out right lol.
It wouldn't have been that big of deal IF I had more room to work with. You only have so much room with LT's, - specially the Pacesetters before the Y hooks right on the drivers. That has to perfect on the 4x4 as it has to fit right between the trans and transfer case....it's tight.
So removing the headers, re-flanging the cats, then welding them directly onto the collectors worked out well. Proper flow and scavenging worked out in the end. It was one of those , "it should work out" and it did.
I also did this with a 99 5four. At the time, I also owned an 01 screw 2wd with the 5four and both the 98 (nonPI) and 99(PI) trucks 4wd's, out performed the stock 01 truck. I ended up selling the 01 back then. We never ran the 98 and 99 side by side, wish we would have. I didn't own the 99 and the guy sold that truck before we had the opportunity.
Anyway, on the 4six. I've heard some guys mentioning they had to lift the engine (passenger side) in order to get the headers to line up right. The passenger side is tight and at first mine wouldn't line up as well. Instead of lifting the engine a little, you should trim the heat shield right at the front about a 1/2" back. You'll have to remove the bolt that ties down the AC line as well. You also may have to remove the starter on the 4six to make fitment easier. You shouldn't HAVE TO lift the engine on that side w/4.6L.
It wouldn't have been that big of deal IF I had more room to work with. You only have so much room with LT's, - specially the Pacesetters before the Y hooks right on the drivers. That has to perfect on the 4x4 as it has to fit right between the trans and transfer case....it's tight.
So removing the headers, re-flanging the cats, then welding them directly onto the collectors worked out well. Proper flow and scavenging worked out in the end. It was one of those , "it should work out" and it did.
I also did this with a 99 5four. At the time, I also owned an 01 screw 2wd with the 5four and both the 98 (nonPI) and 99(PI) trucks 4wd's, out performed the stock 01 truck. I ended up selling the 01 back then. We never ran the 98 and 99 side by side, wish we would have. I didn't own the 99 and the guy sold that truck before we had the opportunity.
Anyway, on the 4six. I've heard some guys mentioning they had to lift the engine (passenger side) in order to get the headers to line up right. The passenger side is tight and at first mine wouldn't line up as well. Instead of lifting the engine a little, you should trim the heat shield right at the front about a 1/2" back. You'll have to remove the bolt that ties down the AC line as well. You also may have to remove the starter on the 4six to make fitment easier. You shouldn't HAVE TO lift the engine on that side w/4.6L.
#34
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Anyway, you can change the cat flanges fairly easily. Once you cut the weld, the insert pulls out leaving you exact amount of room for a 3" ID flange. They were purposely made this way for a slip fit 3" collector. The opening is 3 and 1/8". Back then, I ordered 2.5" x 2.5". 3" was indeed available at the time, but I put my order in too soon, before I had it figured out right lol. It wouldn't have been that big of deal IF I had more room to work with. You only have so much room with LT's, - specially the Pacesetters before the Y hooks right on the drivers. That has to perfect on the 4x4 as it has to fit right between the trans and transfer case....it's tight. So removing the headers, re-flanging the cats, then welding them directly onto the collectors worked out well. Proper flow and scavenging worked out in the end. It was one of those , "it should work out" and it did. I also did this with a 99 5four. At the time, I also owned an 01 screw 2wd with the 5four and both the 98 (nonPI) and 99(PI) trucks 4wd's, out performed the stock 01 truck. I ended up selling the 01 back then. We never ran the 98 and 99 side by side, wish we would have. I didn't own the 99 and the guy sold that truck before we had the opportunity. Anyway, on the 4six. I've heard some guys mentioning they had to lift the engine (passenger side) in order to get the headers to line up right. The passenger side is tight and at first mine wouldn't line up as well. Instead of lifting the engine a little, you should trim the heat shield right at the front about a 1/2" back. You'll have to remove the bolt that ties down the AC line as well. You also may have to remove the starter on the 4six to make fitment easier. You shouldn't HAVE TO lift the engine on that side w/4.6L.
#35
Senior Member
#36
#37
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#38
Senior Member
Jefk, it was cheap for me to do headers for and one of my friends is because we did our own work. Well, he bought the beer and I did the welding lol.
But that's not the only reason, both of us turned our 4 cats into the scrap yard. We got 160 apiece for our old cats. That was more than enough to purchase two high-flows. The headers were just under 300 bucks. The 300 was the most expense.
If your looking at old shifty85 posts on that site, I'm in there as well. Thing is, I don't really do right-ups or start threads, but I've helped quite a few, even shifty here and there way back then lol. We talked quite a bit back then on that site.
#39
Senior Member
Confused yet?
BUT, that was along time ago. Theyre may not have been a specific 4six 4x4 set made by Pacesetter back then. According to Jackedup, there is. There is now anyway.
Regardless, no worries for you, you have a 2wd anyway, = no front drive-shaft to contend with.
You won't have a problem, just purchase the set listed for your truck.
__________________________
DON'T purchase shorties, - we did that test long ago at that same site you were reading from earlier. Absolutely 0 gains w/shorties. Not worth even thinking about.
#40
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It's like Jackedup posted now. The guys that were having the troubles were the 4six 4x4 guys trying to install the wrong headers vs the different 4six 4x4 set. Confused yet? BUT, that was along time ago. Theyre may not have been a specific 4six 4x4 set made by Pacesetter back then. According to Jackedup, there is. There is now anyway. Regardless, no worries for you, you have a 2wd anyway, = no front drive-shaft to contend with. You won't have a problem, just purchase the set listed for your truck. __________________________ DON'T purchase shorties, - we did that test long ago at that same site you were reading from earlier. Absolutely 0 gains w/shorties. Not worth even thinking about.