Wheel painting BS
08-09-2016, 08:14 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Wheel painting BS
Hey guys,gals.
Over the last weekend I painted my wheels matte black.
I did all the steps that I normally do and... they turned out terrible.
The paint did not adhere to the primer fully. Its very powdery and a lot of it just wipes right off. It didn't even adhere to the index cards I used to protect my tires.
I brought the cans with the index cards back to Oreilly's and they chalked it up to defective paint. Got a refund.
Looks like my primer adhered no problem. So I know my prep was good.
Question is; do I resand everything down to the primer, hit with a couple coats of primer and then paint? Or should I just sand and start painting?
I bought engine enamel this time. Its what I used in the past an it worked great. This was the first time I bought "wheel paint". The Oreilly's guy said that the "wheel paint" doesnt need any prep and stayed on his wheels for several years no problem. Maybe I used it wrong? Seems silly.
Any advise would be great.
Over the last weekend I painted my wheels matte black.
I did all the steps that I normally do and... they turned out terrible.
The paint did not adhere to the primer fully. Its very powdery and a lot of it just wipes right off. It didn't even adhere to the index cards I used to protect my tires.
I brought the cans with the index cards back to Oreilly's and they chalked it up to defective paint. Got a refund.
Looks like my primer adhered no problem. So I know my prep was good.
Question is; do I resand everything down to the primer, hit with a couple coats of primer and then paint? Or should I just sand and start painting?
I bought engine enamel this time. Its what I used in the past an it worked great. This was the first time I bought "wheel paint". The Oreilly's guy said that the "wheel paint" doesnt need any prep and stayed on his wheels for several years no problem. Maybe I used it wrong? Seems silly.
Any advise would be great.
08-09-2016, 08:26 PM
#2
Senior Member
Last time I painted any wheels, they were lightly sanded, cleaned with attack cloth and shot with a spray gun. I shot them with automotive paint that matched the truck.
08-10-2016, 08:25 AM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Dupli-color Wheel coating paint.
I plan on redoing them with Engine Enamel and the same primer.
Last edited by Skunkbuttrug; 08-10-2016 at 08:31 AM.
08-10-2016, 08:57 AM
#5
my only gripe with engine enamels is they tend to be more ceramic in texture. It's very hard to get them to lay flat for a gloss finish, I've pretty much tried it all at least once and I have to say the engine enamel paints are my least favorite if I don't absolutely have to use them I won't. Here's a set of fx4's I did with the same wheel paint your talking about. Self etching - primer sealer - base coat - and clear before being buffed out. All in all these wheels had 10-12 coats on them and held up great until sold two years after painting them. I don't have anymore base color on my shelves but I still have some clear. This is what I used and was more than pleased with. If possible stay away from engine enamels
Last edited by 02_Black_On_White; 08-10-2016 at 09:00 AM.
08-10-2016, 09:51 AM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
my only gripe with engine enamels is they tend to be more ceramic in texture. It's very hard to get them to lay flat for a gloss finish, I've pretty much tried it all at least once and I have to say the engine enamel paints are my least favorite if I don't absolutely have to use them I won't. Here's a set of fx4's I did with the same wheel paint your talking about. Self etching - primer sealer - base coat - and clear before being buffed out. All in all these wheels had 10-12 coats on them and held up great until sold two years after painting them. I don't have anymore base color on my shelves but I still have some clear. This is what I used and was more than pleased with. If possible stay away from engine enamels
Unfortunately You need to hit the paint with a heat gun to get it to cure properly wish sucks but once its on its on for life. Like I said the paint I got was clearly bad. It didn't stick to paper for Christ sake. I might try giving it another go.
08-10-2016, 12:20 PM
#7
Senior Member
I always try to stick with the same brand paints. When I painted my headache rack I did different brands and the clear coat didn't fully stick to the paint so it would get water bubbles in between the clear and the paint. Cool to play with, not cool to correct lol.
When painting I always use 2 coats of self etching primer on a scuffed up project (I always scuff up anything I paint), 3 coats of paint, and 2 coats of clear.
When painting I always use 2 coats of self etching primer on a scuffed up project (I always scuff up anything I paint), 3 coats of paint, and 2 coats of clear.
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08-12-2016, 03:01 PM
#9
Member
Thread Starter
I always try to stick with the same brand paints. When I painted my headache rack I did different brands and the clear coat didn't fully stick to the paint so it would get water bubbles in between the clear and the paint. Cool to play with, not cool to correct lol.
When painting I always use 2 coats of self etching primer on a scuffed up project (I always scuff up anything I paint), 3 coats of paint, and 2 coats of clear.
When painting I always use 2 coats of self etching primer on a scuffed up project (I always scuff up anything I paint), 3 coats of paint, and 2 coats of clear.
08-12-2016, 03:19 PM
#10
Senior Member
When I did my spare I actually didn't do what I said to do above lol. I used a Rustoleum grey self etching primer with VHT rollbar and chassis paint, and instead of clear coat I just put some paste wax on it.. This VHT stuff is honestly the best stuff I've ever used as far as a spray can is concerned. I only had it like that for 2 months before I sold the truck so I couldn't tell you how durable that was, but after the two months I had it, it still looked new.