What did you do to your 10th gen today?
02-06-2016, 07:10 PM
Senior Member
02-06-2016, 08:28 PM
Senior Member
Edit: thought you were referring to that plate... what likes like was a easy fix to cover up a problem that should have been fixed right the first time.
Last edited by rcruz3568; 02-06-2016 at 08:31 PM.
02-06-2016, 08:50 PM
Senior Member
Right, when the bushing goes out, happens a lot in these trucks (at about 100,000 miles) , they eventually snap the rear exhaust manifold studs. The bushing material wears out, trans sinks a little bit which stresses the bolts at the head.
What snaps them, the bushing becomes loose, so every time you hit the gas semi heavy, the engine and transmission shifts pulling directly on the passenger side studs. It's the way the engine pulls under heavy acceleration. Anyway, that's how the manifold bolts fatigue, bend then eventually break. That can be a PITA fix.
So yea, it's real good idea to fix and/or reinforce the trans mount local. Just looking at your crossmember, it was under some heavy stress. Takes a lot to bust it up like that.
What snaps them, the bushing becomes loose, so every time you hit the gas semi heavy, the engine and transmission shifts pulling directly on the passenger side studs. It's the way the engine pulls under heavy acceleration. Anyway, that's how the manifold bolts fatigue, bend then eventually break. That can be a PITA fix.
So yea, it's real good idea to fix and/or reinforce the trans mount local. Just looking at your crossmember, it was under some heavy stress. Takes a lot to bust it up like that.
02-06-2016, 09:26 PM
Senior Member
What are you going to do with the crossmember, weld in a plate? Probably what I'd do at this point. Like maybe a pre-drilled 3/16" plate or 1/4".
02-06-2016, 11:27 PM
Senior Member
At first I was referring to the plate that gets sandwiched in between the mount and the trans, IF you have one on that model. I'm not sure that you do. What are you going to do with the crossmember, weld in a plate? Probably what I'd do at this point. Like maybe a pre-drilled 3/16" plate or 1/4".
Edit: Didn't mean to attach second photo... Dunno how to take it off.. O well..
Last edited by rcruz3568; 02-06-2016 at 11:36 PM.
02-07-2016, 11:52 AM
Senior Member
gonna look and see what I can dig up at work. Yeah gonna weld in some metal prolly 1/4... It should be plenty enough. Gonna trim it to lay flush on the bottom side and fit tight into the cross member. Kinda hard to explain my plan. Gonna go get a junk yard cross member so I can work on it in my free time and then just install it at once. It's gonna be a pita to put in because my torsion bars are below the cross member now since the truck is lifted. I may actually change my mind and build the plate then weld it in with the cross member on the truck to save some time. Don't know yet but I'm gonna get me some cardboard and make a pattern to cut out the metal and just toy with it till I figure out how I wanna do it.... Pretty much just something simple like this the red outline being the plate and drilling out new holes for the mount.
Edit: Didn't mean to attach second photo... Dunno how to take it off.. O well..
Edit: Didn't mean to attach second photo... Dunno how to take it off.. O well..
Well, if you get one from the yard, you won't need to do all that. Just use that one. Also use Blue loctite quikstix on the bushing threads. It'll keep the nuts from vibrating and retain torque.
Oh yea, that last pic....nice truck!
Last edited by Jbrew; 02-07-2016 at 11:54 AM.
02-07-2016, 04:38 PM
Senior Member
You can use 1/4" but 3/16 would be plenty good. If it were me, I would go about 1 1/2" past the break on both sides and keep it as tight as you can inside the rail...you know, to the uprights on both sides where it 90's. Really dig into that 1/4" when welding. Well, if you get one from the yard, you won't need to do all that. Just use that one. Also use Blue loctite quikstix on the bushing threads. It'll keep the nuts from vibrating and retain torque. Oh yea, that last pic....nice truck!
02-07-2016, 06:46 PM
Senior Member
Sounds good! Not sure if I mentioned it but yea, IME I've never seen one broke up like yours. Did you just notice it one day, kiduh out of the blue ? It must have been loose for quite awhile.
A little off subject but I recall when installing headers LT's on these trucks and the passenger use to be a PITA if you didn't know a little trick. If you remove the trans mount, you could grab the back of the trans and push either way side to side about 3 1/2 - 4" while attached to the engine. At full push to the left and at an angle, this exposed the pass side manifold giving you more than enough room to install the header quickly. or work on that side. It cuts down on the cussing quite a bit lol.
A little off subject but I recall when installing headers LT's on these trucks and the passenger use to be a PITA if you didn't know a little trick. If you remove the trans mount, you could grab the back of the trans and push either way side to side about 3 1/2 - 4" while attached to the engine. At full push to the left and at an angle, this exposed the pass side manifold giving you more than enough room to install the header quickly. or work on that side. It cuts down on the cussing quite a bit lol.
02-07-2016, 08:31 PM
Senior Member
Sounds good! Not sure if I mentioned it but yea, IME I've never seen one broke up like yours. Did you just notice it one day, kiduh out of the blue ? It must have been loose for quite awhile. A little off subject but I recall when installing headers LT's on these trucks and the passenger use to be a PITA if you didn't know a little trick. If you remove the trans mount, you could grab the back of the trans and push either way side to side about 3 1/2 - 4" while attached to the engine. At full push to the left and at an angle, this exposed the pass side manifold giving you more than enough room to install the header quickly. or work on that side. It cuts down on the cussing quite a bit lol.