Transmission seal leak
#1
Transmission seal leak
Hey guys need a little guidance. I am fixing my dads 2001 2WD reg cab. f150 up a little and recently started leaking some trans. oil that drips down on the muffler -ew- I did a search but I am still a little confused on why it leaks
I believe I know the steps to remove and switch it but is common for this to be because of the seal or what else should i look for?
Also will the seal have a part # or where should I look on the trans to pin point which seal to get.
-Thanks
edit- Also not my picture. Stole it from https://www.f150forum.com/f6/transmi...number-170770/
I believe I know the steps to remove and switch it but is common for this to be because of the seal or what else should i look for?
Also will the seal have a part # or where should I look on the trans to pin point which seal to get.
-Thanks
edit- Also not my picture. Stole it from https://www.f150forum.com/f6/transmi...number-170770/
#2
Could be a couple things,
1 the seal is bad
2 tail shaft bushing
3 u joints
4 driveshaft out of balance
But most likely the seal
1 the seal is bad
2 tail shaft bushing
3 u joints
4 driveshaft out of balance
But most likely the seal
#3
Senior Member
All you need is the year, make, model and engine size.....ask for a rear transmission seal at any auto parts store.
It presses into the tail housing. You can tap it in along the metal edges with a block of wood and a hammer. Be careful you don't damage the rubber or deform the metal. I find using a small amount of grease or oil on the lip of the tail housing helps.
It pops out using a small pry bar or seal removal tool. A screwdriver with a long shaft will work to but not as quickly.
The rubber seats tight around the driveshaft (which has to be removed) and wears out over time creating a leak.
Long as you have the driveshaft out you should check the U-jounts, loose/missing caps, cracks and grease them (if the have zerk fittings).
When you drop the driveshaft, mark 2 of the bolts and yokes....I use different colors of paint...so you install it the same way it comes out. Years ago I was told it makes a difference....not really sure it does but I've always done it that way.
It presses into the tail housing. You can tap it in along the metal edges with a block of wood and a hammer. Be careful you don't damage the rubber or deform the metal. I find using a small amount of grease or oil on the lip of the tail housing helps.
It pops out using a small pry bar or seal removal tool. A screwdriver with a long shaft will work to but not as quickly.
The rubber seats tight around the driveshaft (which has to be removed) and wears out over time creating a leak.
Long as you have the driveshaft out you should check the U-jounts, loose/missing caps, cracks and grease them (if the have zerk fittings).
When you drop the driveshaft, mark 2 of the bolts and yokes....I use different colors of paint...so you install it the same way it comes out. Years ago I was told it makes a difference....not really sure it does but I've always done it that way.
#4
Senior Member
Forgot to add this to my reply.
This is what the new one should look like out of the box.
This is from the Auto Zome website for your year truck with a 4.6L V8 engine.
This is what the new one should look like out of the box.
This is from the Auto Zome website for your year truck with a 4.6L V8 engine.
#5
Thank you for the info I went to my auto parts and picked up the seal and had ordered a 12 point socket that came in today but i got the wrong size also ordered a seal puller so I do not mess up the tail housing since I am new at this DIY stuff.
Instead I oiled the front of the truck because it squeaked like a **** and did the rear window leak fix. I will be tackling this by next week, I feel much more confident than I did when I posted this.
My dad does not agree with me fixing her up a little, says it is a waste. Truck was parked in the backyard for 2 years with minimal use. Turns on with the first key stroke and has 118,000 miles and runs.
Instead I oiled the front of the truck because it squeaked like a **** and did the rear window leak fix. I will be tackling this by next week, I feel much more confident than I did when I posted this.
My dad does not agree with me fixing her up a little, says it is a waste. Truck was parked in the backyard for 2 years with minimal use. Turns on with the first key stroke and has 118,000 miles and runs.
#6
Senior Member
It needs to be a 12mm 12 point, if you didn't know that already.
If your yoke has a groove in it, you can usually find sleeves for them made by Timken or Speedi Sleeve (SKF).
If your yoke has a groove in it, you can usually find sleeves for them made by Timken or Speedi Sleeve (SKF).
#7
I got the socket today from my local home depot. Should I use any RTV on the seal when I install? Doing this either Saturday or Sunday. Crawled under to get some pics of it. Nasty leak -_- hope this new seal solves it.
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#8
Senior Member
IF you use any silicone, only put a thin film on the back side of the flange. Personally I wouldn't use it. The seal is coated with a soft paint/sealant that does the job. I've never had a coated seal leak around its housing.
#9
Senior Member
That's why you need a hammer and block of wood to tap it in. Make sure you set it evenly or you run the risk of distorting it.
You'll understand when you remove the old one.
First one I did I broke the point off the seal removal tool.
#10
Senior Member
Yeah, silicone will just make it harder to put in. I actually like putting a thin film of grease to make them go in easier.... and I've never had a leak in that area.