Ringleader

So, what would happen if the MAF was relocated directly in front of the throttle body?

Jbrew

As long as your IAT was there as well, - nothing. It would follow the program.

However, engine performance would suffer at all rpms. The warmer the intake air, the worse off she'll be, it's a density thing. + Reason Ford incorporated CIA's with these trucks, -factory.

Ringleader

CIA?

Jbrew

CAI's lol

Make sense to yuh now?

Ringleader

Lol, now it does.
You don't know how much time I spent trying to figure that one out!

Ringleader

So, mine's doing it, too, and I can't seem to track it down...
Here's what I've narrowed it down to:
Temps are below 65*
Bank 1 throws first, a little while later it's bank 2 as well.
When I stop for a minute or so ONLY in Drive the idle will fluctuate and truck will act like it's stalling. Idle goes up and down between 300rpm and 1000rpm.
If I put it in Neutral before I stop, it will idle just fine.
I have Gotts mod, but it did it before that.
I recently did non fouler mod but didn't change anything.
Tested voltages and induced rich condition to be sure O2s are working, and everything looked good.
PCV elbow and tubing looks good.
No cracks in vacuum lines found so far.
IAC seems to be working and was replaced by previous owner.

Anything there give any hints to what the problem could be?

Jbrew

Yea, the almost stall, 300-1000 rpm points to the EGR valve. - Poppet valve sticking ,froze partially open or can't/doesn't close all the way.

Jbrew

Don't waste time attempting to clean the EGR valve...it's impossible without blowing the diaphragm.

Ringleader

But wouldn't it throw EGR codes instead of lean? The only codes I've ever gotten were the lean banks 1 & 2.
How much work to replace the EGR? From my experience, exhaust parts and nuts/bolts don't work well together, lol.

Jbrew

Nope, DTC's for a poppet valve stick usually won't come up. There's a PO402, but yea, - rarely pops up; it should! She'll go lean/almost stall from an over abundance of un-metered exhaust gases.

EGR valve isn't really like a normal exhaust part to deal with, well not the valve part of it. They are easier to work with..a little lol. The nut that connects the stainless EGR pipe is on tighter than hell, but never corrodes and locks. Loosening that nut works like this, - Big F'en wrench and a cheater bar. It's easy and quick when doing it this way. Yea, break it loose. Once loose, there's no thread corrosion, so the rest will spin off by hand. Then remove the EGR 10mm and bolt. A battery impact works best for that.

Just make sure you break everything loose at first, starting with THAT BIG NUT.

Guess I should mention there has been times when one of the 10mm nut/stud on the valve may break at the in the plenum while attempting to remove. Doesn't happen very much. You can take precautions. Dissimilar metals are aluminum/steel here. -Aluminum housing. SO, it won't take that much heat to break down corrosion formed over time. If you want, heat the bolt a little before using the impact. That's an expensive unique nut bolt configuration that can only be purchased at the dealer if it breaks.

Now you know more than anyone should about removing one lol.