takse longer to start after battery disconnect
10-08-2016, 01:25 AM
#31
Senior Member
That's not even possible. Not in the programing, I'm 100% on that. So it's the tuner, it has to be. The entire rail is shut down after 4 continuous seconds for all gen 10's.
Last edited by Jbrew; 10-08-2016 at 01:28 AM.
10-08-2016, 08:14 AM
#32
10-10-2016, 07:01 PM
#33
Looking for a Henway.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Well it's not the tuner... 
Returned it to stock tune and it still does it.
So it is not the tune, not the fuel pressure regulator, not the fuel pump, not the fuel filter.
Still have not been by to use a fuel pressure tester yet, but the truck still runs just fine and starts fine if I wait to start.
Also, I timed it, it is about 4 seconds of cranking and it starts, or I wait 4 seconds and it starts immediately.
Returned it to stock tune and it still does it.
So it is not the tune, not the fuel pressure regulator, not the fuel pump, not the fuel filter.
Still have not been by to use a fuel pressure tester yet, but the truck still runs just fine and starts fine if I wait to start.
Also, I timed it, it is about 4 seconds of cranking and it starts, or I wait 4 seconds and it starts immediately.
10-10-2016, 07:41 PM
#34
Well it's not the tuner...
Returned it to stock tune and it still does it.
So it is not the tune, not the fuel pressure regulator, not the fuel pump, not the fuel filter.
Still have not been by to use a fuel pressure tester yet, but the truck still runs just fine and starts fine if I wait to start.
Also, I timed it, it is about 4 seconds of cranking and it starts, or I wait 4 seconds and it starts immediately.
Returned it to stock tune and it still does it.
So it is not the tune, not the fuel pressure regulator, not the fuel pump, not the fuel filter.
Still have not been by to use a fuel pressure tester yet, but the truck still runs just fine and starts fine if I wait to start.
Also, I timed it, it is about 4 seconds of cranking and it starts, or I wait 4 seconds and it starts immediately.
10-10-2016, 08:01 PM
#35
Senior Member
Strange one for sure, never heard anyone having the ability to crank these 7 seconds and then start. It's like the interrupt programming isn't working or gone buggy. Only thing left I can think of is a break out box test. Dealerships use this to test for opens among other things. Since most of us are without that tool, you check continuity through the harness. Clean all and check all grounds. Disconnect the PCM and check circuit continuity...just check for opens. This does happen, I've rebuilt a lot of the harnesses in my 98. Check for opens then run jumper when you find one. Ford harness wires are of small gauge and sever at the bends in places. It does this inside the insulation, meaning , - you'll never see it.
One other thing I can think of. Just above the AC accumulator is part of the ignition harness that is prone to chaffing. The harness uses shielded wire there. If the harness is slightly damaged where it is close to the accumulator (harness loops there) it can create a magnetic disturbance within the ignition system...at times, much havoc. So check the harness condition just above the accumulator.
One other thing I can think of. Just above the AC accumulator is part of the ignition harness that is prone to chaffing. The harness uses shielded wire there. If the harness is slightly damaged where it is close to the accumulator (harness loops there) it can create a magnetic disturbance within the ignition system...at times, much havoc. So check the harness condition just above the accumulator.
10-10-2016, 08:20 PM
#36
Senior Member
Also , a quick way to tell if your if getting a magnetic disturbance in the ignition from the accumulator is to take the harness in proximity of the accumulator and tie it back and away from the accumulator w/zip ties. Over time the harness can sink to close the accumulator and even come into to contact with.
I recall a guy having this problem in this past. It was so bad it was effecting idle and driveability. Pulled the harness further away from the accumulator and idle smoothed out. The vehicle ran fine.
I recall a guy having this problem in this past. It was so bad it was effecting idle and driveability. Pulled the harness further away from the accumulator and idle smoothed out. The vehicle ran fine.
10-22-2016, 08:24 AM
#37
Looking for a Henway.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Well, now that it is colder the problem has gotten worse. This morning it was around 50°F and when I went to start it, it took a good 10 seconds of cranking on multiple tries before it finally started.
Chase, the IAC was cleaned 1 year ago when I did the intake manifold (only 6,000 miles on it since then).
I am just going to have to break down and bring it in I guess, I just don't know.
I do have a mechanic (the one who put the engine in 2 years ago) that will do the diagnostic on it and then let me take it back and fix it myself if I can, so if I can just find out what the problem is then I can take care of it.
Chase, the IAC was cleaned 1 year ago when I did the intake manifold (only 6,000 miles on it since then).
I am just going to have to break down and bring it in I guess, I just don't know.
I do have a mechanic (the one who put the engine in 2 years ago) that will do the diagnostic on it and then let me take it back and fix it myself if I can, so if I can just find out what the problem is then I can take care of it.
10-23-2016, 01:07 AM
#38
Senior Member
Good luck man. Not much else I can think off. Bad gas, but that should of been realized by now. Worse case, -way down on compression. Regulator is one of the first things, but you covered that. Have you checked fuel pressure again?
Well, interesting for sure. Thing is, for the mechanic, -it isn't the norm either, so make sure you talk to the one working on your truck. Or speak with the service rep in detail. Most SR's won't understand everything, -just make it clear this isn't a simple one. That way you'll most likley get assigned a senior tech or mechanic. This can quicken the diagnosis. Of course he or she will have to start with fuel (fuel always first), then onto other possibilities. I've been thinking off and on during this thread about the starter interrupt circuit. But the way that works, it kills power to the starter. Well that's it's function, but I'm not sure if that circuit, if defective could have some influence on what's going on. (?) It's a stretch, but at this point.....lol
You could sort of start back at scratch and do the same if you have or are willing to put in that time...I might before taking it in. Luckily I haven't taken the 98 in since warranty was up. Yea, VERY lucky there lol. Plenty of close calls though for sure lol.
Well, interesting for sure. Thing is, for the mechanic, -it isn't the norm either, so make sure you talk to the one working on your truck. Or speak with the service rep in detail. Most SR's won't understand everything, -just make it clear this isn't a simple one. That way you'll most likley get assigned a senior tech or mechanic. This can quicken the diagnosis. Of course he or she will have to start with fuel (fuel always first), then onto other possibilities. I've been thinking off and on during this thread about the starter interrupt circuit. But the way that works, it kills power to the starter. Well that's it's function, but I'm not sure if that circuit, if defective could have some influence on what's going on. (?) It's a stretch, but at this point.....lol
You could sort of start back at scratch and do the same if you have or are willing to put in that time...I might before taking it in. Luckily I haven't taken the 98 in since warranty was up. Yea, VERY lucky there lol. Plenty of close calls though for sure lol.
Last edited by Jbrew; 10-23-2016 at 01:12 AM.
10-23-2016, 08:29 AM
#39
Looking for a Henway.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
The place I bring it is an independent shop, it is the one that did my motor swap. He works primarily on Fords, and does a lot of work on this gen. My regular mechanic (and good friend) that does not like working on this gen (he does not like Fords in general)sent me to him and said he is good.
When we did my engine swap we talked for a bit before of what I wanted (valve covers and oil pan pulled and checked prior to install etc) and was very accommodating. He seems to know his stuff from talking to a few other people in town. I will be sure to tell him all I have done and what it is doing before hand.
Tomorrow I am going to check fuel pressure again, clean the MAF (again), maybe pull the IAC and check it, replace all relays and recheck all fuses. Recheck battery connections and main grounds. I may (probably not) pull the plugs and just take a look at them (only ~15,000 miles on them, they are OEM plugs). If I pull the plugs, may pull the injectors (no idea why, don't know what I would do with them).
When we did my engine swap we talked for a bit before of what I wanted (valve covers and oil pan pulled and checked prior to install etc) and was very accommodating. He seems to know his stuff from talking to a few other people in town. I will be sure to tell him all I have done and what it is doing before hand.
Tomorrow I am going to check fuel pressure again, clean the MAF (again), maybe pull the IAC and check it, replace all relays and recheck all fuses. Recheck battery connections and main grounds. I may (probably not) pull the plugs and just take a look at them (only ~15,000 miles on them, they are OEM plugs). If I pull the plugs, may pull the injectors (no idea why, don't know what I would do with them).
10-25-2016, 10:57 PM
#40
Looking for a Henway.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Well, it is not a fuel pressure issue.
Got a fuel pressure tester and it is fine.
When I turn the ignition on, pressure goes up to almost 40 PSI immediately, then levels off @ ~34 PSI. Still will not start immediately. When cranking it is at least 30 PSI. Once it does start, pressure sits at 32 PSI. If I disconnect the vacuum line from the pressure regulator, pressure jumps to 40 PSI immediately, so that is good.
So I did have a fuel pump issue before, but it was not the real problem.
I checked all the fuses and relays, everything seems fine there. Double checked the battery connections. MAF is fine.
I talked to my mechanic friend today and he said to check the crank position sensor, it could be going out and that can sometimes cause these issues (especially when it is worse if cold). I have a new sensor coming and if that is not it, I am bringing it to the shop on Monday to get it figured out.
Got a fuel pressure tester and it is fine.
When I turn the ignition on, pressure goes up to almost 40 PSI immediately, then levels off @ ~34 PSI. Still will not start immediately. When cranking it is at least 30 PSI. Once it does start, pressure sits at 32 PSI. If I disconnect the vacuum line from the pressure regulator, pressure jumps to 40 PSI immediately, so that is good.
So I did have a fuel pump issue before, but it was not the real problem.
I checked all the fuses and relays, everything seems fine there. Double checked the battery connections. MAF is fine.
I talked to my mechanic friend today and he said to check the crank position sensor, it could be going out and that can sometimes cause these issues (especially when it is worse if cold). I have a new sensor coming and if that is not it, I am bringing it to the shop on Monday to get it figured out.